Alice in Chains build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Threads
72
Messages
1,597
Location
Germantown, IL
I purchased an ’84 pick up to use as a dd and parts chaser in hopes of better fuel mileage when I was racing stock cars at a local dirt track. This turned out to be the start of much better hobby than the racing primarily due to the fun to work ratio.

I purchased the truck for $500 and had to trailer it home due to the fuel pick up being completely rusted shut. It did fire right off when I looked at it by pouring a little gas down the carb. First mod done was to put a stainless steel fuel cell in it to get it running. The fuel cell came from a parts stock car I had bought when racing. I grafted the fuel sending unit from a ’70 Cutlass gas tank into it and ended up with a fuel gauge that works but reads backward regardless of which way it was wired. The fuel cell was originally mounted where the spare tire was while it had the stock bed on it, after the flat bed was made it moved under the front of the bed.

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The truck sat for a while due to poor performance after a carb replacement didn’t help. I decided to try and mount one of the Rochester carbs I had left over from racing due to there simplicity and cheap rebuild kits. Two of the bolts matched perfectly for the Rochester so I took the manifold to work and welded the two holes shut that didn’t line up and redrilled to match the Rochester. After boring the holes to match the larger throttle plates and reconfiguring the throttle cable it worked like a champ.

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Now that it was running again I decided to finally do a flame job I have wanted since I was young. The bed was wasted and the cab had some body damage on the passenger’s side and lacquer crack on the hood and drivers side. Now that it was painted I put on a temporary bed made out of some left over siding so I could drive it to work while gathering the steel for the flat bed. On the first day I drove it after finishing the paint job my mother (Alice, for whom the truck was named) had passed away. I used the time I took off work to build the flat bed and reflect on the great times we had. We didn’t have a traditional funeral but a celebration of life ceremony and used her ashes to start the life of a newly planted tree at my eldest brother’s house at her request.

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The bed consist of 2”x 3” outside boxing, 2”x 2” main supports offset 1” below the 2”x 3”, 1”x 1” cross bars for the decking and 4”x 1/8” plate to make the taillight and mud flaps structure. 5/4” deck boards were used for the decking and a 1” void between the decking and outer box gave me room to weld recessed chain loops for tie down straps or to make side boards for it. The area between the main rails and the outside boxing got treated to some left over plastic truck bed liner. This gave the bottom of the wood a little protection from the abuse it would endure in the future and provided a storage place for the flags needed at some of the parks we go to. Rolled up they slide down under the 1” cross bars and sit nicely in the deep grooves of the bed liner. The tail lights are from a ’79 Firebird with the backup light portion removed and mounted upside down. I had these lights as spares for the wife’s first car and gave me a no cost solution for the tail lights. A little rewiring and I ended up with the inner and outer being the park and brake lights while the middle ones are park and turn to differentiate the brightness to act as somewhat of a third brake light. This difference is also reflected in the two different flame patterns.

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These were drawn out on contact paper to make the patterns applied and lightly painted the show the pattern for cutting. Tools used for the making of the holes were: drill, mini air saw, ¼” die grinder/burr bits, 1/8” dremmel/burr bits and hand files. It took 26 hours to make the patterns and cut out the holes. I also added a hidden drop down trailer connector to keep a clean look out back. A 2” nylon strap lashing winch like those used on large truck flatbeds was used for the spare tire lift. With the cross member removed a spare 35”x12.5” tire fits with plenty of room tucked up tight to the bottom of the bed with only an inch hanging below the frame rails.

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We wheeled it mostly stock for a year when the timing chain jumped a tooth on the road trip to Flat Nasty in Missouri. Pulled the head and found a bent valve fixed that to only end up with a spun rod bearing the next year so… tear it down again. The block got bored .020 over along with the .010 grind on the crank and I did some port and polish work to the head as well. While the engine and trans were out I decided to do a 3” cab and drive train lift and made a 5” lift for the bed. This gave me the room for the fuel cell at the front of the bed, batteries over the rear axle, the spare tire carrier and gave me a flat belly. The cross member is made from semi truck frame 10” c channel that is 5/6” thick and protects the transfer case and muffler. Sliders are 2 1/4” schedule 40 mounted with 1 5/8” .120 wall tubing and triangle gussets cut from I beams.

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The rear bumper is made from part of a trailer hitch from a wrecked truck, left over 2”x 3” tubing from the bed, some 1/2” plate and 3”x 4” angle iron. The recessed receiver has two tabs that bolt to the bed in the license plate recess for additional support at the receiver.

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My front bumper is made from the center section of the rear bumper that was on my GMC. It was the perfect size to mount a Warn 9000. The mounting brackets use the four original mounting holes plus two on the top side of the frame for a stronger mount for the winch. After that was done I bent up some conduit to make the shape for the plate steel to finish the sides which use the original turn signals. Those were cut from the factory bumper and welded in. Some 1 ½” tubing was used to reinforce the outer portions incase I happen to rub against something. A front hitch was added from another wrecked trucks trailer hitch. My wife sewed up a winch cover from and old tread mill tread that wasn’t being used which has proven to be very durable. She works at a boat seat manufacturer and has access to the industrial sewing machines that needed to be used for the thickness of the material.

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The suspension is the standard 63” Chevy rears and rears up front configuration. Brake line mounts were relocated to stay with the factory flex lines. On the front they were moved from the top of the rail to the lowest outside edge and the rear is just a simple piece of 1/8” plate to drop the mount. Shocks are 14” Ranchos in the rear with extended factory towers in the front and 12” Bilsteins . Cross over steering with modified factory arms and a steering box from a ’01 Nissan Frontier (it was free). I had to make a high pressure line using Earls fittings and braided line which brought the total cost for my cross over steering to under $100. I did have to cut the pitman arm to change the taper from in on top to in on bottom then plated over the v notch weld for reinforcement. The box is mounted through the factory push/pull box mount that was cut and modified to receive the Nissan box



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Inside the cab consist of a dash mounted grab bar and a center mount ebrake lever that was welded solid for the passenger to hold in the rough terrain, works extremely well and keeps arms and hands away from the outside. A skull shifter knob that was originally a bobble head doll found in a wrecked car was epoxied to a shaved down factory knob. The factory defrosted rear window was switched to a slider unit by the previous owner so I used the switch and wires to power some rock lights. Also lost was the factory power antenna so I used that switch and an additional cargo light switch with a couple of relays to create in cab winch controls using the factory switches. Trailer brake controller and CB radio are also in dash in place of the storage compartment and ash tray. The steering wheel was swapped for a non SR5 wheel (personal preference).and power windows were deleted for wing window models because I really like wing windows and hate power windows.

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Other additions include A/C deleted and replaced with a GM one wire alternator for winch, auxiliary lighting and power inverter. Dual under bed rear mounted batteries which will be linked with a solenoid for a jump start at the push of a button if the primary battery dies. An Ooga horn now replaces the non working original one. Stainless steel header, flex joint and muffler for an all stainless exhaust. ’84 2wheel drive grille with sections removed and barbed wire added to the slotted areas. . Square tube front shaft and schedule 40 one piece rear shaft are working great. It’s currently sitting on 33” rubber.

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Things to come include: dual cases, 529 gears and 35” tires.
 
Great write up Bill. I've seen you do some awsome things in this truck and its good to see the history. Seeing this truck in person is very different, it looks basicly stock, but the more you look the more cool mods you notice. and the pics don't do the tail light flame job justice.
 
Thanks Mark.

The subtlty of it all is what I like best, hide it in plain sight.
I really wanted the flame job to be the a slap in the face get your attention focal point.
All the rest is to see who's paying attention. I get more comments on the barbed wire grille than anything else.

Maybe by spring we can get some wheelin' in.
 
Sweet write up, Bill. Don't you have a cowbell that still needs to get installed?
 
Sweet write up, Bill. Don't you have a cowbell that still needs to get installed?

I used to but I traded it for a turbo at the raffle. I think it may have something to do with cow bell abuse while intoxicated.:eek:
 
I finally got the $ for a Marlin dual case adapter and will be tackling a switch to a W56-b and duals using my original forward shift case and a top shift from an '81.

With the b series W56 using a top shift transfer case I was wondering if I can modify my existing shift rails from my forward shift instead of having to buy a conversion kit? Will the front range box retain both shift rails or do I just need the high/low shift rail? I have never been inside a trans or transfer case yet so any info will be appreciated.
 
please tell me what carb that is?

I decided to try and mount one of the Rochester carbs I had left over from racing due to there simplicity and cheap rebuild kits. Two of the bolts matched perfectly for the Rochester so I took the manifold to work and welded the two holes shut that didn’t line up and redrilled to match the Rochester. After boring the holes to match the larger throttle plates and reconfiguring the throttle cable it worked like a champ.

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please tell me what carb that is?

It's a GM 2bbl that came on Chevy,Buick,Olds and Pontiac in the 60's through the 70's. They came in a variety of sizes, mine is one of the smaller ones at 350cfm. They were made up to 500cfm and were put on school buses as well.

I'll look to see if I still have a spare gasket to show the difference to the intake.
 
Finally found the gasket for the Rochester. The mounting hole difference is small enough that if you wanted you could just ream the holes on the carb base plate to make it fit the intake. I chose to move the 2 studs on the head side so I could drop on any rochester without modification of the base plate.

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As you can see there is quite a bit of difference in the size of the gasket opening compared to a stock intake. I opened the intake to match the gasket hole size.
 
Did you say what model # Rochester? Probebly doesnt matter any of vintage was basicaly the same I think? Please keep up with the updates on the performace of this carb, this is an awesome solution to many "my weber gets to much fuel" or how do I Re-jet my weber" or "what fuel pressure reg do I use?" or whatever other varies questions about weber carbs?

Thanks man:cheers:
 
2GC is the model of the Rochester.

I'm not real good with carb adjustments and tuning which is why I went this route and I already had it.

The only mods to the carb were:
1) removal of the choke which was converted to manual using my broken e-brake cable
2) cut part of the stock Toyota throttle cable pull and weld it on the Rochester to retain the stock throttle cable ( if I had to do this again I would just modify the cable end)
I saw another guys cable that uses a loop in the cable end and an eyelet electrical connector that would have been much easier that the cut and weld job I did.

There are several carb builders modifying these for race application and use Holley jets do to there abundant supply.

I'm using the stock fuel pump but due to the fuel line supply size difference I silver soldered a piece of the 3/16" line into the 1/4" inlet line of the Rochester.
 
I forgot to mention that this carb has been on the the truck since '06 and I have gone through it once since then for a gasket vaccum leak do to a base plate bolt (base plate to venturie body) coming loose in '07, a little mild lock tight and it hasn't been off since.

Milage isn't fantastic at 15 mpg but I am still on 410 gears and 33" tires and haven't been in 5th gear for years. I am very happy with it's performance to date. I have never gotten more than 18 mpg since I've had it even when it was all stock.

Facing up hill on steep climbs it will not idle without a little extra throttle and I will eventually put a hand throttle on her but the old heel toe/method has kept me going so far.
 

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