Quick Change IFS drive shafts (1 Viewer)

[tntoyota]

Any one had any experience here?

I ran across a 4runner on CL and the guy said it was "converted to quick change with grade 8 blots".

1989 4Runner - excellent offroad vehicle - great condition

"Front half-shafts rebuilt and converted to “quick change” (i.e. no studs / grade 8 bolts) "

I think all he did was tap the stud holes but I'm thinking thats too close to the line, no studs and I guess lock washers

What about corrosion and do you think it would be strong enough to support moderate to hard core wheeling?


It would make sense to do this and it sounds easy enough but what do ya'll think?

 

[KLF]

My guess is that he pressed the studs out of the flanges at the front diff, drilled out the holes, then got some 3/8" grade-8 hardware. Big deal. Will they hold up? Of course, those 6 bolts are gonna be a lot stronger than the CV joint.

 

[tntoyota]

My guess is that he pressed the studs out of the flanges at the front diff, drilled out the holes, then got some 3/8" grade-8 hardware. Big deal. Will they hold up? Of course, those 6 bolts are gonna be a lot stronger than the CV joint.

Oh, I was thinking he taped the splined stud flange thingey part on the diff (duh, axle half shaft flange) and then just bolted it through the CV's flange from the outside.


can this be done?

 

[tntoyota]

this thread reminds me of the 4runner i bought once with a 5:29 TT in the front, got it to my buddys farm and tryed to get it out, had it about 90% out and could not finish, by the time I got back to it (my friend had since then moved it close to a road but semi hidden for storage) some one else had finished it for me. They were nice though and left the bracket I could not see/ get to and the wrench they used to get it out, but in retrospect I'd rather of had the diff....., to them

 

[KLF]

Sure, I suppose that cound be done. I'm wondering how hard the material is that flange is made from, it seems that since it is part of an axle shaft that it will be hardened steel. It could be very difficult to tap.

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

I have read about replacing the studs with bolts but don't honestly remember it being that difficult to swap a diff with the stock studs. My guess is that when unbolting both sides and the diffs you can "adjust the diffs position" and free the joints. I gather a single cv swap is trickier because you dont have the movement of all the other unbolted parts?

 

[elvi]

Any one had any experience here?

I ran across a 4runner on CL and the guy said it was "converted to quick change with grade 8 blots".




I think all he did was tap the stud holes but I'm thinking thats too close to the line, no studs and I guess lock washers

What about corrosion and do you think it would be strong enough to support moderate to hard core wheeling?


It would make sense to do this and it sounds easy enough but what do ya'll think?

The intention is to be able to swap a failed CV shaft with out dropping a lower ball joint. The stock studs make it almost impossible to do a axle swap w\o pulling the ball joint as the total length of the shaft exceeds the available clearance of the suspension. My rig "Flea" has both sides done that way. ( studs removed and grade 8 nuts, bolts and lock washers in there place. Now; as for tapping the stub shaft flanges: that could work. I suppose the amount of torque passed by the bolts far surpasses what a stock CV would handle. A stock powerplant with stock tire size \ gear ratios probably would live forever. HHmm.. that would make it even easier the field swap axles ...

 

[KLF]

I gather a single cv swap is trickier because you dont have the movement of all the other unbolted parts?

Exactly.

 

[tntoyota]

Now; as for tapping the stub shaft flanges: that could work.


HHmm.. that would make it even easier the field swap axles ...

The stock studs make it almost impossible to do a axle swap w\o pulling the ball joint as the total length of the shaft exceeds the available clearance of the suspension.

IIRC thats what lost me the diff in the story above, I could not get the CV to clear the studs and just drop. I had to remove the whole freaken thing

 

[CookieJR]

quick question

Are both my front CV axle shafts, passenger and driver side the same? Because i broke my passenger side axle shaft right at the drive flange . i have A.D.D on my 95 sr5 pickup

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Both the same Cookie.

 

[beyondlogic]

ok im lost. i cant really pic in my head what part you are talking about, so does anyone have pics?

 

[Hilux]

On the stub shaft are pressed in studs they are splined and will not rotate. Also makes Ez removal somewhat hard.

The length of the studs makes a quick CV drop impossible IMO, because to push the try pod housing over the studs, the joint will push the grease seal out of the back of the the T.P housing.

Drill and Tap the stub SHAFT flange and you can bolt it from the outside. Most just drill it out and nut and bolt it.

(some pics show the nuts NOT the bolts.)

..

 

[Hilux]

Drill and Tap the stub SHAFT flange and you can bolt it from the outside.



..

**NOTE** To my knowledge This has NOT BEEN TESTED TO DATE.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I would feel a lot better if nuts were tacked onto the inside of the dif flange and then bolted through... I would not tap the flange.