Convert FJ62 A/C to OBA (1 Viewer)

[Front Range 4x4]

Since my A/C doesn't work though the compressor does I decided to convert it to on board air.


Parts list:
Square D Pressure Switch, 90-125 psi Grainger #5A537
Air Pressure Gauge, 0-160 psi Grainger #1X754
Speedaire 4ZL57 Miniature Micromist Lubricator
Speedaire 4ZL08 General Purpose Miniature Air Line Filter
K&N Mini Air Cleaner

After receiving the Speedaire parts I found they were drop-shipped from Grainger so all parts could be ordered from them instead of 2 sources as I did.

When tank is added I'll be using these
Safety Valve, 150psi Grainger #5A709
Check Valve, 150psi Grainger #5X780

An assortment of 1/4" NPT brass fittings, clamps, hoses

This is converting the use of the stock Toyota compressor. I know many people prefer York but you can't beat the fact that it's already installed and mounted.

The pressure switch is the manifold, nice compact setup with 4 connections of which we used 1 for the output, 1 for input and 1 for the gauge. The 4th will be used when I add an air tank. It's attached to the firewall providing good access, switch wiring, ground and easy installation.

The oiler is in the input line to keep the compressor lubricated while the filter is in the output to remove water. These in an easily accessible spot along with the on/off switch which are all mounted by my air filter. The K&N mini filter is tucked away behind the windshield washer tank. Test running shows everything working perfectly and the pressure building surprisingly fast. Real use operation to come.

I think the pics show everything pretty clearly.


Attached Thumbnails

 

[Meatdawg]

That is really cool. Keep us posted on how well it works.

 

[agent orange]

Badass, that looks pimp. Ive got a spare compressor, i wonder if i could put one in lieu of my smog pump and leave my a/c alone?

 

[Front Range 4x4]

As long as you can mount it you'd be fine I'd guess. I'm hoping to get to adding a couple storage tanks today.

 

[mkguyvr]

i did this to my j20 jeep pickup a while ago and the performance was as good if not better than my ten gal 1hp shop compressor. i had a 10 gal tank plumbed in the bed.i could run pretty much anything off it including including my roofing nailer and framing gun. got some funny looks when i would break out the hose .

 

[chicago]

SAHWEET!
Nice build and write up bro.
Im considering this as well.
Thanks for the PN's and pics.

Chicago

 

[Front Range 4x4]

Thanks, here's an update. I installed the tanks from a dead portable compressor and guess combined they hold about 10 gallons. Nice since it's compact.

A friend did a bit more research for parts and here's his list to save a couple bucks.

Parts list:
Square D Pressure Switch, 90-125 psi Grainger #5A537
$36.15 Grainger
$33.36 Drillspot

Air Pressure Gauge, 0-160 psi Grainger #1X754 Discontinued
Alternative $8.40 Grainger
$7.73 Drillspot

Speedaire 4ZL57 Miniature Micromist Lubricator
$36.20 Grainger
$36.20 Drillspot

Speedaire 4ZL08 General Purpose Miniature Air Line Filter
$23.57 Grainger
$23.57 Drillspot

K&N Mini Air Cleaner

After receiving the Speedaire parts I found they were drop-shipped from Grainger so all parts could be ordered from them instead of 2 sources as I did.

When tank is added I'll be using these
Safety Valve, 150psi Grainger #5A709
$6.96 Grainger
$6.40 Drillspot

Check Valve, 150psi Grainger #5X780
$13.16 Grainger
$12.11 Drillspot

An assortment of 1/4" NPT brass fittings, clamps, hoses

Here are links(Click the $$) to the parts! From Grainger and Drillspot.
Grainger $104.32, $124.44 w/ tank
Drillspot $100.86, $119.37 w/ tank
+K&N Air Cleaner and the assortment of 1/4" NPT brass fittings, clamps, hoses.

And a pic on the tanks.

 

[SouthCoastMudder]

Looks good, I have OBA on my F-250 via a ViAir compressor which is really good for its size, but I am wanting to put either a Toyota or York compressor in lieu of my smog pump.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Damn that's cool. So you use the micromist lubricator to keep the pump lubricated and the inline filter to take the oil back out, got that part. How often do you have to refill the oil reserve for that lubricator?

 

[Front Range 4x4]

Keeping the pump lubricated is critical and the filter takes out moisture more than oil. I'm on my first fill of oil, have it set to drip generously, and can't detect any change so I suspect my 4oz bottle is going to last years. The most I've removed from the filter was pretty much just a/c gunk when I first got it working, now it's very small amounts. I'll know more as warmer weather sets in and it sees more use.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Update on long term use? I just drilled a hole in my AC condenser so I am now considering this modification.

Update on oil usage or usable pump pressures?

 

[Front Range 4x4]

Hey Johnny! I'm happy with it and use it a lot. After a run I usually re-fill 15-20lbs in my 35's. I'm still on my first fill of oil and have it set to drip as fast as the oiler can handle which works fine. It puts out 125psi and running it at 1500rpm does a good job. It's not as fast as CO2 but never needs re-filling which I see as a plus. I'd do it all over again given the choice.

 

[Spook50]

I really like this mod. I think an FJ62 A/C compressor would fit great in place of the smog pump if an appropriate bracket can be fabbed up for it. I would expect it'd be much easier to fit in that place than a York compressor. Be a great way to go for people like me who are still using their A/C but have removed their smog pump.

This might have to be investigated further...

 

[Bomar]

I have an old a/c compressor that someone can have just pay shipping.

Just PM me. It had a small leak in the rear of the compressor to loss freon slowly after time.

 

[Spook50]

Hey Chris, a few questions for you...

Now that you have the tank setup in the back of your truck (I really dig the dual tank setup from an old compressor. Going to try to track one down for my setup too), are you still using the pressure switch as the manifold and do you still have a gauge there? Also, how did you go about wiring power (I assume you've got a switch in the cab in addition to the pressure shutoff switch) for the compressor's clutch?

Do you have any pics of how you did up the lines and fittings on the compressor?

 

[Front Range 4x4]

I pulled them, the loss of storage wasn't worth the small gain in performance.

 

[Spook50]

I pulled them, the loss of storage wasn't worth the small gain in performance.

You pulled the tanks?

So do you have any kind of tank system now or are you running directly from the pressure switch like you were before?

 

[Front Range 4x4]

No tank system at all, I run directly from the pressure switch since I found so little benefit from the tank. It's a judgment call balancing a small increase with the tanks against the lost room in the back. An alternative is locating the tank elsewhere. I've seen tanks mounted in the spare location or elsewhere but it's just not for me.

 

[Spook50]

No tank system at all, I run directly from the pressure switch since I found so little benefit from the tank. It's a judgment call balancing a small increase with the tanks against the lost room in the back. An alternative is locating the tank elsewhere. I've seen tanks mounted in the spare location or elsewhere but it's just not for me.

Good point. I wouldn't trust the spare location unless I had alot of armor there to protect the tanks.

How about the fittings on the compressor and wiring the clutch? Any details on that?

 

[Front Range 4x4]

I used the stock fitting off the compressor and joined the hose using a couple fittings to mate them which was really the hardest part since they tend to want to separate under pressure. Trial and error worked fine. The power wire is also original and I just added a switch under the hood since I open it to attach the hose. I like it that way but I could see some people liking a dash switch. I suggest making sure you can tell it's off because you don't want to forget to turn it off after airing up or whatever.