3fe oil galley plug

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A new thread popped up and reminded me that I need to do this. I have read all the threads on it and looked at all the pictures. But most pictures seem like the engine is out or everyone moved all of the hoses from the engine. Do i need to remove the heater hoses ? What is best tap and drill bit to use. looks the 6mm or the 5/16 my choice but on threads where the tap broke what size was the tap size?

Thanks

JB
 
Here are the best instructions I found. Written by Mark Whatley of course...This is for a 2F, but I suspect a 3FE is pretty similar...

"First remove the valve cover, and the headbolt that the oil flows around. Insert a cloth, a cotton ball on a string, a soft rifle/shotgun bore swab, or some other material to prevent any metal flakes from falling into the bore. Then use a "F" sized drill bit (.257 of an inch) to drill out the short passageway between the head bolt bore and the exterior of the block. Once it is drilled, tap the hole with a 5/16-18 tap. An allen head screw can then be threaded into the hole until it is flush. Coat the threads with epoxy before installing the screw. Reinstall the head bolt and the valve cover, let the epoxy set up, and you're ready to go. "

The only thing I would add is that I had to remove one of the heater hoses (the longest one) because with my drill/angle adaptor set up I couldn't get the right angle without doing this. I just removed the heater hose where it goes into the firewall, pulled it towards the front of the truck, and slipped the drill in behind it.

I was a little worried about lining up the drill, to get the hole to follow the original hole in the head. This was easy to do as there is a bulge on top of the head that you can use to line up the drill. Also, the material used to plug the weephole is pretty soft (compared to the head) so it only takes a gentle touch to keep the bit drilling out the plug, as opposed to drifting off and damaging the head.
 
The factory plug is made of aluminum.....

therefore drills easily.......
 
thanks lovetoski.


will loctite work just as well as an epoxy
 
Just wanted to thank you guys for discussing this! I was pumped today when I checked the galley plug and found the PO had already tapped it with a hex bolt. I've got enough other stuff to mess with on the rig that's the last thing I wanted to take care of. Never would have thought to check it out without this board though!
 
I've got a ghetto idea... not that I have done this and I stress 'ghetto'!

I have read that JBWeld is super tough, resistant to heat, similar to welding, etc... Why not clean the area and toss some JBWeld over the existing plug, cementing the plug in place?

I told you my thought was ghetto... :p
 
Pics or it didn't happen.
 
I have seen the JB weld approach tried a couple of times. If the oil gets past the plug, it gets past the JB weld. I have "field fixed" this with a zerk fitting packed full of JB weld and pressed (tapped/hammered) into the bore with some JB weld smeared in there too
worked for a long time afterward
I probably still have that head around somewhere.


Mark...
 
The whole point of addressing this oil galley plug is to fix it right and permanently. I would not take the ghetto approach unless used as a trail repair as discussed by Mark W.

That's like rebuilding the knuckles and not putting in Marlin Seals...
 
Why are you trying to make a ghetto b*star*d feel bad? :hillbilly: I had never used JBWeld until recently, used it on my radiator (small cracks coming through) and was amazed with its strength and heat resistance (no more leaks). I was tossing out the idea of using it as a cheap/easy fix to the galley plug issue, in hindsight it is/was a lame idea.

I rebuilt my knuckles shortly after purchasing the wagon and didn't use Marlin seals, unknown/unknowns can be a real PITA but live/learn I guess. :frown: I have not experienced any leaking yet but the next rebuild I will use Marlin's in response to today's cyber-smack. :D
 

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