Tranny to Xfer leak changing direction, costing $$$ at shop, need to make a decision!

[Eporter]

So, for years I've been dealing with fluid pumping from my tranny to my transfer on my 1983 FJ60. Lately the tranny started getting really noisy. I drove cross country from Syracuse, NY to Jackson, WY.

Eric at Autotech (here in Jackson) just put a cummins 4bt in a '83 FJ60. Real nice. He had the tranny left over as he chose to swap in an NV4500.

SO, I bought the tranny from him and had him install it. I supplied the Toyota seals, he did the labor.

The old dried out transmission rear output seal wore a groove into the gear that sits in the transfer. SO, Eric put a speedy-sleeve on it to create a nice smooth surface. Put a new seal in, filled it up with 90w.

$800 later I have a transmission installed that sounds so much better. Mainly because I don't hear a dying squirrel inside anymore!

Problem is, now the fluid's pumping from the transfer into the tranny! I drove 70 miles and it pumped 1/2 a pint into the transmission. Topped it off at the shop yesterday, went for a 100 mile scenic drive with my girlfriend, and now the transfer's low again. It's definitely pumping from the transfer to the transmission now.

I can't figure out what's wrong?

I have the bypass hose that recycles the fluid. I threaded one end onto the transfer fill plug and blew through the other end of the hose. I heard the transfer breather whistle. There's resistance to my breath, but air does flow out the breather. Should there be any resistance at all? I'm trying to rule out a clogged breather tube. Air passes through, but with some resistance I guess. If I breathe in fully, some whistles out the breather, but if I remove my lips, air comes back at me. By the way, 90w tastes bad.

Normally I wouldn't taste this stuff, but I'm going crazy!

SO, the shop says they can't warranty the seal. I supplied it. They use Napa parts. Napa has no seal. So, they would've ordered it from Toyota anyways. Problem is, they can't warranty a Toyota part. Either way I eat the cost.

SO, here comes the tricky part.

They need to tear apart the transfer to see if the seal was put in wrong. Eric swears he did everything exactly right. If they take the transfer apart and nothing's wrong, I still have to pay the labor, AGAIN. Whoopie. If the seal's put in wrong, they'll replace it no charge.

I'm basically gambling. Worst case scenario, I pay double for this. Best case I have a new seal, but still with no warranty, and no recourse.

Kind of frustrating when the shop manager suggests that as a solution they can just put the bypass hose on and I can deal with it. He also suggested I drive to Pocatello, ID and have a Toyota dealer do the seal so I'll be covered by a warranty. I asked where that great advice was when I first walked in the door? He also wondered if the case was cracked and was that the problem? "Maybe you should start looking for another transfer case."

I'm thinking I should put the bypass hose back on and drive to Portland, OR, where we're moving as soon as I can drive there!

Once there I can have Toyota do the work again. At least then it'll be covered regardless of seal failure or improper work. Their nationwide warranty is rather nice, I've benefited from it before.

The new seal will be at the shop by monday morning. Should my cruiser be there too? I'd rather not throw another $800 away.

What say all ye who've read this far!

Thanks,

Eric

 

[roscoFJ73]

I would put the bypass hose on and have a rest.

 

[Eporter]

Yeah, the bypass hose seems to be the cheaper route. I think there's something wrong with paying a bunch of money, ending up with a partial fix, and then slapping the bypass bandaid back on.

If I had time (and another car) I'd attempt replacing that oil seal myself.

 

[marcfj60]

I know a guy that runs the bypass hose all the time. He wasn't leaking either direction but was worried about it so he just installed the hose that I think he bought from Man-a-Fre and leaves it on always, not worrying about if the seal fails and he pumps it into the other one because the bypass hose balances it out.

 

[Dynosoar]

You are building pressure in your t case. You need to clean out the breather vent and the pumping will stop.


Dynosoar

Search there is a lot of info on this.


PS the return line is a good solid long term fix.

 

[Mace]

You are building pressure in your t case. You need to clean out the breather vent and the pumping will stop.


Dynosoar

Search there is a lot of info on this.


PS the return line is a good solid long term fix.

yep..

 

[Skybill]

When you get to Portland if you are still having the problem, go see "W" at Over the Hill 4X4 (www.overthehill4x4.com).

He's a wizard on Cruisers!

 

[2mbb]

I was having problems with oil moving from the transmission down to the transfer. I resealed the transfer a couple times and the problem persisted. Finally I removed the OEM transfer breather, threaded the hole and installed a hose barb fitting. I ran a breather line up into the engine compartment and put a little filter on the end. The problem went away.

 

[Eporter]

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I guess I was trying to rule out the breather issue by threading the bypass hose in and blowing through it. My breath went through, but with some resistance. I still can't believe the tech guy didn't check it out the breather at all.

I've read a lot about the breather issue and didn't find a reference to anyone else blowing through the bypass hose, not sure how much resistance should or shouldn't be there.

I guess I should've just had him put an extended breather on when he had the transfer out on the bench. Would've insured that the breather would be a non-issue.

SO, sounds like I'll have them put the hose on and fill the xfer back up. I could do it myself, but if they'll do it for free, why not.