new carb

[74cruiser]

i am looking at investing in a new carb, i was thinking abou the webber 38/38. i was wondering about peoples experiences with this carb or any suggestions on other ones. also if the 38/38 is worth the extra 50 dollars as opposed to the 36/32, as far has power and fuel economy. thanks

 

[Degnol]

The 32-36 is designed for a 4 cly engine, the 38-38 for a 6.
People either love Webers or the hate them. You'll need a fuel pressure regulator or it will run rich. I run the stock 2bbl Asin carb and I'm pretty happy with it.
Which one you decide to run depends on your application. Why are you wanting to change? In any case, good luck, there are guys running all three of those carbs, not at the same tome, of course, heh, heh.
Ed Long

 

[toddslater]

Here is a link to this question discussed before.
http://www.ih8mud.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=general;action=display;num=1044564881;start=11

as you will see, I would suggest the 32/36. IMHO I am one of the ones that loves webers...and I run 3 on one straight six engine .....no not the cruiser

 

[thorvald]

i like my weber have a 32/36 on a 2f and it runs good
Didnt have an aisin on mine to start with, but if you do, id keep it as theyre somewhat hard to find depending on the year you need. pretty sure if you do a search on this topic youll come up with a lot of info

 

[74cruiser]

thanks, i never know you could search past posts from other people. im looking to get a new one because i have slow throtle responce and i want to increase my power a bit. i have the stock 2b and its falling apart, its about time to get a new one, and my engine lacks fuel/power when it goes up hills and shuts off so i was looking to get a better one. and advice on what to to would be nice. also any random ways to increase my power and mog would also be nice. thanks

 

[thorvald]

from what ive seen on the lists, people are either fans of the aisin or weber or both, seen a few people that have gone back to the aisin after switching. if its rebuildable, you might want to go that route. either get a kit or have someone that works on carbs do it for you. kits should be cheap, around $15 or so.
dont know personally what mpg difference is between a well running aisin and weber, dont think theres much though.
sounds like you gain a little power from weber, but having a rebuilt/new carb will make a difference compared to one thats in poor shape.

 

[74cruiser]

iv rebuilt it once, replaced all the gaskets and what nots, but the springs didnt come w/ my rebuilt kit and some of them are streched, and i dont think all the fuel is getting burned. if not the carb what else would cause it to stall going up hill?

 

[Degnol]

When you rebuilt your carb, did you use CarbDip? There are all kinds of little holes and passageways that can only be cleaned chemically. When I did mine, Pinhead suggested Berryman's Chemtool CarbDip. Great stuff, carb looks new when it come out of that stuff. Blow it out with compressed air, then you know it is clean. You must remove any rubber parts before you dip it, they will dissolve. &nbspon't remove the butterflies from their shafts, it is not necessary. A good kit will have the float, needle and seat, accelerator pump, jets, sight glass, check balls,as well as all the gaskets.
You might also check your fuel pump, there are old posts about the output of the fuelpump and how to test it.
I rebuilt mine in about 2 hours, it was not difficult and kinda fun to do. But if you don't dip it you are spinning your wheels.
Ed Long

 

[Degnol]

Go to the CCOT Board, typr "Fuel pump output" in the search, you'll get PinHeads test for fuel pump.
Ed

 

[toddslater]

Stalling going uphill could be your float adjustment.

 

[CruisinGA]

I would rebuild your old carb. Keep things simple and stock. Even a well tuned Weber install won't give you much more power than a rebuilt stocker, and you won't need to swap distributors to a early/non-usa. I know I'm a purist, but in many cases a new or rebuilt stock replacement is as good if not better than other options that will work. Normally the power increase people get from those type of replacements is just because the original part was worn out. Its hard to beat Toyota engineers. About once a month over at the SOR forum we would get someone that had installed a Weber and "now its not running right." There's less of a risk of that if you go with a stock replacement or rebuild.

 

[74cruiser]

thanks for the advice, the first time i rebuilt it the person helping me said it had already been rebuilt once, and i use b12 chem tool. the second time was just to try and adjust my float b/c somebody suggested that might be the problem, it didnt help. i didnt know if a new carb would help or not but im willing to try anything. would my valves or timing have anything to do with it dying? and the slow throtle responce?

 

[CruisinGA]

Try checking your vacuum switch and replacing ALL vacuum tubes. I did this and it helped with off the line power. At low rpms my engine hits hard, but if I am already cruising at 40 or so and I hit it to the floor it slightly bogs and then catches, feels just like a auto shifting out of o/d into 3rd. Could be fuel mixture, bad plugs/plug wires perhaps. &nbspoes it feel like its boggind or just stumbling? I have never had to fool with timing and I don't know much but wouldn't it need to be retarded a degree or so if you are stumbling upon acceleration?
What exactly is happening when you hit the gas? Does it stumble, bog down, or what? Be as descriptive as possible please.

 

[Degnol]

To my knowledge, the only part the can be worn out and nor replaceable is the throttle shaft. If it is loose in the bushing, you will have a vacuum leak there no matter what you do. So if you rebuild once again, you"ve got $20 in carb dip, and $14-18 in a carb kit. That is a bet I'll take any time. Try the rebuild one more time, with a good kit, and maybe some advice from Jim Chenoweth. This s*** DID work right when it came from the factory.
GL
Ed

 

[74cruiser]

when i step on the gas it waits a few seconds before it reves up at all. i also noticed that the spacer between my carb and the intake manfold was a hose on it whick is caped off, i was wondering wht this hose goes to and is it important? the throtle robs are all losse and the bushing holdig them together are worn is there a way i can replace them? thanks for the help, its hopefully saving me money :G

 

[Degnol]

That capped off fitting went to your valve cover to suck crankcase fumes. You've probably got a similar capped off fitting on your valve cover. The hesitation could be your accelerator pump, just go ahead and rebuild it.
Ed

 

[bernefj60]

For my money, send the carb out to be rebuilt. The stock carb, when properly tuned, will out-perform the weber any day. I have one on my 60, and i've got plenty of power.

There are a few folks who do it, but Jim Chenoweth seems to the the best. He did mine. fj40jim@aol.com

good luck
Rob

 

[CruisinGA]

That capped off fitting went to your valve cover to suck crankcase fumes.  You've probably got a similar capped off fitting on your valve cover.   The hesitation could be your accelerator pump, just go ahead and rebuild it.
Ed

On my '74 with all stock late F, I can be cruisin at 40/45 just fine and then if I slam the throttle to the floor it feels like an auto shifting down, not quite like bogging down, just takes a second before it revs. Could this be the same thing? And what is an accelerator pump?

 

[wesintl]

you might consider a new non-usa carb. www.nardek.com.au

 

[Degnol]

On my '74 with all stock late F, I can be cruisin at 40/45 just fine and then if I slam the throttle to the floor it feels like an auto shifting down, not quite like bogging down, just takes a second before it revs.  Could this be the same thing? And what is an accelerator pump?

The accelerator pump squishes raw gas into the carb to compensate for the full throttle you have just given it by mashing down on the pedal. You can check it by removing the air cleaner, so you can see down into the carb, I mean directly into the carb. You can manually actuate the linkage, or have someone push down on the throttle. NOW...this is all with the engine OFF! As you look down the throat of the carb, you should see a stream of gasoline in the primary side, the onw closest to the valve cover, BEFORE the butterfly opens. If you do not see a stream of gas, your ACCELERATOR pump is not working properly, and your carb needs to be rebuilt. Most kits come with exploded diagrams of the parts and if you use the Carb Dip, blow everything out, PinHead says rinse in lacquer thinner, and reassemble according to the diagram, you should be OK. The only adjustments are the float level,the idle mixture and the idle speed. The Idle mixture, a brass screw facing the valve cover at the base of the carb, screw in all the way and back it out 2-2 1/2 turns, then adjust in or out for maximum vacuum at about 700-800 rpm with the choke off.
What have you got to lose? It will not be any worse than you have right now. Jim Chenoweth is very helpful, and knows a lot more than I do, and is generous enough to share with us bone heads.
Get a good kit, Jim has VERY complete kits, a good place to work, don't drink until you're done, follow the kit instructions and VOILA! You can do this, young Luke,let the Force take over.
Ed