Welding spider gears

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Yes. I did read woodys right up. back want to know. Do you really have to take out the carrier. how much better is it then a locker. Don't drive it on the street anymore. it sees like 90 % off road and 10 street and its mostly a canyon.... I have a mm 200 and I think it is big engune to weld it. any other tip to ad on woodys rigth up or any pics ??????


Eric
 
I had my welded by FC, I like the way it works I don't drive my cruiser on the road much but it does OK. Weld in between the teeth preheat the gears before you weld them.
DSC02494 weld 2 rear.webp
DSC02496 weld locker.webp
 
I wouldn't do it still mounted to the axle housing. There's no reason to leave it on there except laziness. Pull the extra 10 nuts - it's worth it. And there are a lot of reasons that make it easier to do separate.


When I did mine, I set the whole thing in a milk crate (it was handy) with the pinion down so I could rotate things around and I could do almost all of the welding down (cuz I'm not the best vertical welder). I did not weld the gears to the carrier but did spend quite a bit of time filling EVERY void and around every contact point. I haven't had any problems with mine for the past 3 years and it's street driven almost every day. I do have to tighten my rear u-bolts every 6 months or so as the torque on the housing and springs making tight turns on pavement puts a lot of stress on them and the rear end starts to clunk around.
I welded mine because it was the original 10-spline one from my 64. I figured if I ever broke it (or the axles) that it would be a good excuse to upgrade to 30-spliners and a real locker. It just hasn't happened yet.

Stuff some aluminum foil under the carrier to cover the pinion bearing as much as possible to keep any weld debris from getting in there (and wash it out afterward as well). I used a stick welder for the big gaps on mine, so I had a lot of slag to worry about.

This is probably a 'no duh', but don't clamp your ground to the housing or the pinion. Clamp it right to the carrier if possible. A little arc within the pinion bearing or carrier bearings will destroy the 'economy' of welding your own. The 200 is plenty of welder - I wish I had that welder when I did mine.

It has its advantages and disadvantages. If you ever anticipate driving in snow or ice, I wouldn't do it - sideways in a hurry. It's cheap - only costing some welding rod/wire and a couple quarts of gear oil. If you still have drum brakes in the rear, it'll even out the braking forces between the rear wheels. The down side of this is that if you ever lock up the rear end on the street, the little flat spot will be on the same spot on both wheels and will thump until it rounds over. It's way more predictable both on-road and off-road than an autolocker, but will squeal tires around turns and accelerate tire wear.
 
I just read woody's writeup again and realized that I misread your original question (I thought you meant taking the 3rd out of the axle). I did not remove the carrier from the third member. It would have been a little easier to have it out, but not enough to justify the hassle to me.

HTH,
Eric
 
I new you had some pics ryan lol. Mike hopefully I do it by the end of the week. tierd of open lol. Eric you got any pics...... dont mine taking 10 more bolts. just didnt want to take off the ring gear off and all that stuff.
 
Eric you got any pics...... dont mine taking 10 more bolts. just didnt want to take off the ring gear off and all that stuff.

No pics of mine. I did it just like the updated version in Woody's writeup except I left the carrier in the 3rd member and left the ring gear on. Like I said, it would have been a little easier to do the welding with the carrier removed, but it just seemed like it was a toss-up between the PITA of welding in confined space or the PITA of dealing with the bearing and gear setup.
 
okay okay okay. i may have time this weekday. I just ben to busy. School is just taking all my time this year. anyways just want to know


Steps.

drain oil etc.
pull tires off
remove dif cover. wash clean oil!
remove c clip. pull axle shafts.
drop driveshaft.
take 10 bolts off and be able to take 3rd off
weld between spider gears (PREHEAT) RYAN said that!
and whats next lol
did I miss soming in order?

So many project and no time lol
Thanks
eric
 
alrigth ryan is this how you did yours???????????????? how you preheat them? I was just going to stick it in the over?
spider gears.webp
0925071816.webp
 
Eric use a propane torch.
 
preheat is not necessary with mig.. Just a lot of heat and make sure the gears are clean..
 
oh that look pretty, i was thinking about that to, but i never heard of just welding the teeth and leaving them unwelded. Then i was thinking it may put to much stress on one teeth only. idk ?
 
Personally I do not like the welded teeth only system.

Spiders should be welded to the side gears IMHO. It just removes any potential slop and shock loading on the third..
 
I welded mine per Woody's write-up about 2 1/2 years ago and have been beating the crap out of it since. I run 38.5s and a V8 so it sees plenty of abuse and has been bulletproof...
 
seem like i have a locker now. It came out okay. i just welded it right now. lets see how does welds hold up, i did all 8 points and a bit more
 

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