Flooded your car? Check here.

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Joined
Sep 14, 2011
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Location
Houston TX
Though my LC is only a month old, after fixing a few odds and ends and installing new leather to freshen up the interior i decided to take it out with some friends wheeling last weekend.

Performed great but then a jeep got stuck in the river, i elected to yank him out:

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He was stuck pretty well and I dug a nice hole:

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The winch on the CJ broke and the cruise spent a good 15 minutes like this:

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the drivers side had about 3 inches of water in it.

Now, the cruiser shut off once while in the river and once on shore while we worked on getting the jeep out, but it started easy each time and i never shut it off.

Immediate issues:
-AC blew but wasn't cold
-rear AC fan didnt work
-Both DRL bulbs blew and the pass side lights were full of water
-oil pressure read MAX and water temp reads min and acts odd
-diff locks were flickering and rear locker took a long time to turn off
-Head unit didnt work
-carpet stank
-iphone 4 wasnt cooperating
-randomly wouldnt start (acted like starter contacts)
-not a single fuse blew, i checked them all

The following is what worked for me:
-got it home and completely removed all of the seats/carpet
-vacuumed carpet
-removed kick panels/all plastics
-vacuumed all standing water in the truck
-using bolts i moved the wire loom off the body to allow air to flow
Then i started the truck, closed the doors, put in a large fan that i have and put the heater on full blast with the AC off and recirculate on.
5 hours of idling with the heater going and the car was drying out. It was easily over 100deg inside. The heat quickly dried the truck out.
Also should note that at the bottom of the A pillars and B pillars are foam that are jammed down in the unibody. Removed this and tossed it in the truck to dry better.

at the end of 5 hours everything was working except the DRLs and the radio.

The next day after work i replaced the DRLs and the head unit dried out enough that i was able to get the stereo to fire up and all speakers worked! unfortunately the radio would stay on all the time even when the key was out. I have a new to me amp from a mud member on the way. I let it idle in the drive with the heater going again for about 3 hours for good measure.

The next day i tackled the starter. Purchased contacts and a plunger from Toyota, but when i got to the starter and removed it from the car...i drained about a 1/4 cut of water out of it. Took it apart and found a lot of corrosion and decided a reman would be best.

The following day i replaced driveline fluids and found water in the front diff.

Took the opportunity to clean EVERYTHING and installed my OME lift while I was at it.

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Scary situation for sure, this truck is in great shape and I can say it has made a full recovery. Hopefully this helps someone else in the future.

carpet inside, cleaned and drying: note the missing plastic wear panel. I tore this off the carpet because it was soaking wet underneath it. I just used some spray upholstery glue from the new leather project the week before.
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when i did the starter, i also did my valve cover gaskets. This is what 200k miles looks like. Impresive:
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Great work and write up! This is my worst fear...Getting water inside the cabin. You always hear horror stories about used cars up for sale coming from flooded areas. I guess if you address the issue immediately, you should be good to go!
 
The car I bought had the same issue.
The owner told me so I knew before I bought it. I had it checked out by my mechanic and he couldn't find any evidence of it. All fluids were replaced and I have the invoices proving it.
 
Thanks for getting that amp out fast shaggy, it woks great!

The engine, alternator, pulleys an bearings are as silent as ever.

And with the new leather and clean carpet the truck looks and smells great.

It's not the end of the world when a car floods, just have to act fast!
 
My first thought when i saw the first pic was... Do a recovery in the opposite direction. Pull out rather than back out. Also, using a dehumidifier may be easier/quicker than using the heat on an idling truck. Thankfully everything is ok!
 
Really glad you posted.

Had a similar mishap on the Dirty Devil this past Saturday. Pics will surely follow but I had just a bit less water in my cabin then you. Only my engine shut off, seems that I did not have any water in the engine, seemed to be more of a computer shut off.

My 4runner is at the dealer and I am waiting for the diagnostic..My runner would not start after.
 
has anyone done a mod to make the door seals waterproof, or a least more water resistant?
 
Did you check your transmission fluid and diff fluids too? You can suck water into the tranny and diffs unless you have the breathers relocated higher than you were under water. I'd drain and refill your fluids for just to be safe...
 
Lesson one, never pull backwards with these trucks. Sure way to break the front diff.

As for the flooding. 1st thing, disconnect battery. Then start stripping the truck and make sure every ECU / boxed circtuit board etc is dry inside. Unplug them and drain then. Some interior ones will be upside down so water can get in and never get out. Makes sure all components are clean and dry before applying power again.

Also good idea to wash them out with distilled water, then spray them out with some electric contact cleaner to displace water.

If you got mud and silt into components and it allows for electric conductivity, applying power to the wet components can and will fry stuff.
 
All fluids checked and driveline fluids replaced.


Hindsight being 20/20 back in would have been a much better idea.

I should note that once burrows the water intrusion took about 5 minutes to start coming in the door. But once it started it reached the same level as the river very fast.
 
Sounds like the 100s computer brain is up under the dash where as the 4runners are on the kick board..I hate it when Christo is right...:)

Which might explain why yours kept running and mine did not.
 
If the truck was acting different I would have done things differently, I made these decisions based on how the truck was acting and what I know. I was lucky that I was able to idle the truck, and not everyone has a dehumidifier, but that is solid advice. I'm really glad I only had a 20 min drive home.

The jeep guy is an odd ball and is still driving it and hasnt even checked driveline fluid. But he winched himself out and back across and last I heard his automatic trans was shifting weird.

Something else I did: when installing the lift, I had the truck in the air and removed the wheels, cleaned the brakes, pads, and removed the rotor and cleaned the sand out of the shoe and greased the mechanisms. This got rid of the grit noise from all axles.
 
Yes, because it's never a good idea to park in a river, and the water intrusion took time.
 
So seriously, if your other systems give out before the intake draws water in it, is there ever a need for a snorkel?

My sense is that it can help with some "splashing" water that might make it's to the intake via the regular air path.

That said, my understanding is much the same as yours: by the time you're in a situation where the normal intake would be fully underwater (and snorkel would remain exposed) you are already in a very unhappy place for your truck.

...I guess, if I absolutely, positively, had to get through some deep river and was willing to damage the rest of the truck while doing it, then snorkel might get me through were I would be in trouble without.

(no snorkel on mine, so no first hand experience, just my understanding. those with real experience, please feel free to set the records straight.)

EDIT: I also remember people talking about the benefits of snorkel for keeping dust from clogging up the air filer in very dusty conditions... but not really water related.
 
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