Changing out speakers, anything else while panels off?

[smm3]

I am going to attempt to replace all the factory speakers in my 2000 LC this weekend. Never done anything like this before. I have printed out the 2 relevant threads dealing with panel removal and also speaker replacement. The pictures are great and I appreciate that someone went to the trouble to document it so others, like myself, can do it as well.

I bought a set of Infinity 6022i 2 way speakers for the rear doors and a set of Infinity 6030cs component speakers for the front. I am keeping the factory amp for now but have upgraded the factory radio to a Pioneer AVIC-F90bt.

Is there anything else I should do while I have all the panels off? Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

 

[LSUfj]

might consider cleaning up the window tracks.

 

[100 TD]

And lubing them with spray silicone. Wash out the bottoms of your door, mud and crap, keep drain holes clear

 

[nineironus]

If your door handles are getting loose (as mine were) you may want to tighten the bolts holding them in. Mine were working loose.

 

[larryt]

I lined the doors with sound deadening insulation at the same time. Found some 1/4" or so thick synthetic insulation locally with foil on both sides, and applied it with 3M Super 77. Got rid of any door panel rattles I had. Did the floor panels and wheel wells while I was at it.

I replaced mine with the exact speakers you are using, but upgraded the satellite amp and added subwoofers and dedicated amp for that. Even before the addition of the amps and subs, the replacement speakers were a huge improvement. Also, I did not need to modify the existing speaker rings or tweeter housings to accomodate the Infinity's. Just cut out the old ones and screw the new ones onto the wood rings.

I needed a combination of this forum and a Crutchfield tech to get through the install, as it had been a while since I did a custom system. The wiring is kind of tough to get a handle on thanks to the "creative" amp configuration from the factory. Overall, though, an easy vehicle to work on.

Hope that helps.

 

[wareagle]

FYI, I did mine 2 weeks ago. The instructions were spot on. I did not need to cutout the old enclosures, since the newer polks come with the adapter plate. One suggestion, keep the screws separated. I mixed a couple of sizes.

 

[smm3]

If your door handles are getting loose (as mine were) you may want to tighten the bolts holding them in. Mine were working loose.

I haven't noticed that mine are loose, but I will definitely add this to my list. Thanks

I lined the doors with sound deadening insulation at the same time. Found some 1/4" or so thick synthetic insulation locally with foil on both sides, and applied it with 3M Super 77. Got rid of any door panel rattles I had. Did the floor panels and wheel wells while I was at it.

I replaced mine with the exact speakers you are using, but upgraded the satellite amp and added subwoofers and dedicated amp for that. Even before the addition of the amps and subs, the replacement speakers were a huge improvement. Also, I did not need to modify the existing speaker rings or tweeter housings to accomodate the Infinity's. Just cut out the old ones and screw the new ones onto the wood rings.

I needed a combination of this forum and a Crutchfield tech to get through the install, as it had been a while since I did a custom system. The wiring is kind of tough to get a handle on thanks to the "creative" amp configuration from the factory. Overall, though, an easy vehicle to work on.

Hope that helps.

I forgot to add in my initial post that I ordered some Fatmat Rattle Trap (very similar to Dynamat but cheaper) to do this. I ordered 10 yards worth. Hoping it is enough to do all the doors. Will worry with wheel wells and floor boards later.

FYI, I did mine 2 weeks ago. The instructions were spot on. I did not need to cutout the old enclosures, since the newer polks come with the adapter plate. One suggestion, keep the screws separated. I mixed a couple of sizes.

How long did it take you to do all 4 doors? I have a friend who has done some stereo work in the past so it will not be like me doing it all by myself.

Did you do component speakers in the front? Curious where to mount the crossover in the door.

 

[smm3]

And lubing them with spray silicone. Wash out the bottoms of your door, mud and ****, keep drain holes clear

I am adding this to my list as well. I researched on here and found that 3M makes a "dry" silicone spray that works very well. I bought some today. Thanks

 

[wareagle]

How long did it take you to do all 4 doors? I have a friend who has done some stereo work in the past so it will not be like me doing it all by myself.

Did you do component speakers in the front? Curious where to mount the crossover in the door.

I would say that it took me 2-3 hours. The first speaker took about 1/3 of the time. The rest of the install was very fast. I might suggest that you lower the windows before you begin install. This seemed to help maneuvering, plus you can make sure that speaker clears the glass. MIne were not component, so crossover was built in.

 

[larryt]

The Infinity's come with adapter plates as well, but would have placed the woofers deeper in the door and angle them facing your feet, which I did not prefer (*I don't know what the Polk adapters look like, they may be a lot better*). If you are going to use typical adapters, usually plastic or metal rings to make the holes line up, make sure you seal them well, maybe with Fatmat. An angled MDF ring wouldn't be so hard to throw together as an alternative to both.

There is plenty of room about halfway up the door for the crossovers. You can see the void left between the door panel and door when you remove the panel. Bigger X-overs, like MBQuarts, may not fit though, not sure.

Have you already installed the head unit to the factory amp? If not, I might have an extra wire harness left over for use with the factory amp. PM me if you are interested.

 

[smm3]

The Infinity's come with adapter plates as well, but would have placed the woofers deeper in the door and angle them facing your feet, which I did not prefer (*I don't know what the Polk adapters look like, they may be a lot better*). If you are going to use typical adapters, usually plastic or metal rings to make the holes line up, make sure you seal them well, maybe with Fatmat. An angled MDF ring wouldn't be so hard to throw together as an alternative to both.

There is plenty of room about halfway up the door for the crossovers. You can see the void left between the door panel and door when you remove the panel. Bigger X-overs, like MBQuarts, may not fit though, not sure.

Have you already installed the head unit to the factory amp? If not, I might have an extra wire harness left over for use with the factory amp. PM me if you are interested.

I am also assuming that the tweeter from the component set is a drop in replacement that doesn't require any modification to fit. I sure hope that it the case. I had not found anyone on the site when I researched that went the component route instead of the 2 way speaker route. Glad to know that the crossover will fit in the door.

I did have the head unit installed already. Thanks for offering the extra wiring harness. I bought the head unit from a fellow Mud member who had the correct harness already in the box.

 

[larryt]

The 6030 tweeter is pretty easy to drop in. Pull the tweeter pod off, unscrew the bracket and break the tweeter off the bracket. It is glued on. I was concerned about shorting the speaker connectors on the bracket because they are a little different than stock, so I heat shrinked a little tubing on them. A dab of JBWeld and they are on like new.

 

[smm3]

The 6030 tweeter is pretty easy to drop in. Pull the tweeter pod off, unscrew the bracket and break the tweeter off the bracket. It is glued on. I was concerned about shorting the speaker connectors on the bracket because they are a little different than stock, so I heat shrinked a little tubing on them. A dab of JBWeld and they are on like new.

Great news. Thanks for your helpful insight. I am looking forward to getting all the speakers changed out. I have been driving my LC for 2 weeks with a blown speaker and it is about to drive me crazy!!

 

[1loudLX]

I am adding this to my list as well. I researched on here and found that 3M makes a "dry" silicone spray that works very well. I bought some today. Thanks

got a picture of the label or a product number?

 

[smm3]

got a picture of the label or a product number?

I don't have a picture but could take one tomorrow if you want it. The product number is 08897. Silicone lubricant (dry type) is what is written on the side of the can.

 

[AATLAS1X]

See my build in my sig line and look at the speaker covers. Great time to recover them if they need to be done.

 

[FullyLitLED]

if your gna change the speakers, might as well buy a subwoofer and get rid of the factory one. I wanted to add a 6x9 in place of the factory sub. Is that possible? I have 2-12" JLw3's but I want more bass

 

[stevopike]

in regards to adding the dynamat, knockoff dynamat, etc. are you just cutting holes for the wires, speakers, etc and adding it on over the plastic liner?

 

[larryt]

if your gna change the speakers, might as well buy a subwoofer and get rid of the factory one. I wanted to add a 6x9 in place of the factory sub. Is that possible? I have 2-12" JLw3's but I want more bass

Not sure what a single 6x9 will do that JL 12's already don't have amply covered. I would think you need more large drivers, more power or a different enclosure.

I considered a 6x9 sub alone to replace the factory subs. With a shallow custom baffle, a 6x9 should fit, but I couldn't find a driver that was shallow enough to fit the factory enclosure, so I opted to incorporate a sub box into my cargo drawer construction. Too bad, because I think the factory enclosure was a pretty good use of space.

 

[larryt]

in regards to adding the dynamat, knockoff dynamat, etc. are you just cutting holes for the wires, speakers, etc and adding it on over the plastic liner?

You can do that. I cut 12" strips of the stuff, and overlapped each by an inch or so, directly on to the plastic liner. That allowed the wires to be pulled from under the overlapping material and have no large holes. Not that holes would probably make much of a difference.