Coolant and ATF flush questions
- Thread starter Serge
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Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
Don't know if there are any real writeups for the coolant. It's pretty straightforward. The system capacity is around 16 qts. IIRC, if you drain both the radiator and right engine V-bank block, you get 11 qts. My estimated fluid allocation is 4 qts for each of the V-banks, 1 qt for each heater core, and 6 qts for the radiator and associated hoses. The left bank block drain bolt is obscured by a hard transmission line, so I was too lazy to remove the mounting bolt and just drained & filled the radiator and right block & filled the system 3x w/ distilled water while cranking the heater. You have to keep the rpms up to heat up the coolant so the thermostat opens. The cooling system capacity is so large that even when the heaters are blowing hot air, the thermo can still be shut. The right bank drain is right next to one of the rear engine mounts. Slide underneath the vehicle behind the left front tire and look around the rear engine mounts near the oil pan. You'll see the little duct. If you put a piece of pvc tubing on the duct as you crack the drain bolt, it keeps the fluid from splashing all over.
The passenger-side block coolant drain isn't really that hard to get to. I was able to weave my arm and small box wrench to the drain bolt without removing anything. As mentioned, make sure you attach a length of tubing to the spouts so you can direct the draining coolant.
With draining the radiator and both PS / DS block drains, I drained about 14 quarts out of the 16 quart capacity. I replaced it with the pre-mixed Toyota Super Long Life Coolant.
My only advice is to make sure you give the cooling system enough "burp" time (running the engine at 2k rpm with the radiator cap off). I apparently didn't do it long enough the first time and the engine got very hot and the heater wasn't blowing hot air. I immediately thought I had a bad thermostat. I took the new thermostat out to verify that it was functioning correctly (it was). I put the thermostat back in and re-burped the system and when the last puff of air was evacuated, I immediately got a blast of heat from the heater and the engine temp dropped. All was well. So, be safe and burp the system for longer than you think you need to. If you put in a new thermostat, may as well verify it works prior to putting it in.
With draining the radiator and both PS / DS block drains, I drained about 14 quarts out of the 16 quart capacity. I replaced it with the pre-mixed Toyota Super Long Life Coolant.
My only advice is to make sure you give the cooling system enough "burp" time (running the engine at 2k rpm with the radiator cap off). I apparently didn't do it long enough the first time and the engine got very hot and the heater wasn't blowing hot air. I immediately thought I had a bad thermostat. I took the new thermostat out to verify that it was functioning correctly (it was). I put the thermostat back in and re-burped the system and when the last puff of air was evacuated, I immediately got a blast of heat from the heater and the engine temp dropped. All was well. So, be safe and burp the system for longer than you think you need to. If you put in a new thermostat, may as well verify it works prior to putting it in.
Haven't done the 100 yet, but with the Rovers we jack up the front end a little to get out any excess air while filling back up.....
Regarding the trans. It seems the fluid replacememnt is a good idea. To get all the fluid, you need to do an exchange and not just drain the pan. However, the dealer tech told me there is no filter, only a screen. He said the few times they've had to drop pans, the screen was never dirty.
I did the same thing. Between the angle of my driveway and jacking up the front, it really seemed to help to get the last little air pockets / bubbles out.
- Thread starter
- #8
I have replaced the tranny fluid on my Volvo 850. The procedure there is to disconnect the fluid cooling hose at the radiator bank and hook it up to a clrear plastic tube. You then start the car and fluid is pumped out into a milk jug via the clear hose. Once the jug is full you shut the engine off and fill the tranny with 1 jug worth of fresh fluid. You repeat this process untill your see that fluid that's pumped out is fresh and pink.
I wonder if I can do something similar with my LX?
Serge
I wonder if I can do something similar with my LX?
Serge
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
Yes, pull the ATF hoses off at the ATF cooler behind the front grille. You can drain the pan of its 3 qts or so (measure it), then run the engine until that amount exits the ATF cooler, stop engine, refill pan w/ 3 qts, repeat. The dealer has a machine whereby you dump the new ATF in one tank. One hose feeds the new ATF into the system while the other hose dumps the old ATF into an empty tank on the machine. They run the engine until the tank of new fluid is empty.
SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
I'm 99.9% sure its the top hose. What you can do is disconnect the top cooler hose and hook up a short piece of hose to the top of the cooler and put both hoses in a jug. Now have someone start the engine and see which hose the fluid comes out. By the way, its NOT high pressure.
Drain fluid out of pan. Measure how much you drain and mark it LESS 1 qt on a clear container. I used a clear plastic Ozarka gallon jug.
Fill the transmission with the same amount you emptied (probably 4 qts)
Connect the outlet side hose (top one I believe) to a 3/8 splice double barbed fitting and about 8' of 3/8 clear hose. Take this hose and the container with you into the front seat where you can start the engine. Start the engine and shut it off about 1" before the fluid gets to the line. Refill transmission with what you pumped out (probably 3 qts). Repeat until fluid turns bright red. Best I can recall it took about 18 - 22 qts. When its flushed out it will almost instantaneously turn bright red (usually within 1 or 2 qts). I have done all my vehicles this way. The only difference is if the vehicle has a paper filter, I change it. The LandCruisers and Lexus have screens, don't bother dropping the pans. Takes about 30 minutes, 1
job. The original write up is in the 80 section under transmission fluid exchange.
Drain fluid out of pan. Measure how much you drain and mark it LESS 1 qt on a clear container. I used a clear plastic Ozarka gallon jug.
Fill the transmission with the same amount you emptied (probably 4 qts)
Connect the outlet side hose (top one I believe) to a 3/8 splice double barbed fitting and about 8' of 3/8 clear hose. Take this hose and the container with you into the front seat where you can start the engine. Start the engine and shut it off about 1" before the fluid gets to the line. Refill transmission with what you pumped out (probably 3 qts). Repeat until fluid turns bright red. Best I can recall it took about 18 - 22 qts. When its flushed out it will almost instantaneously turn bright red (usually within 1 or 2 qts). I have done all my vehicles this way. The only difference is if the vehicle has a paper filter, I change it. The LandCruisers and Lexus have screens, don't bother dropping the pans. Takes about 30 minutes, 1
job. The original write up is in the 80 section under transmission fluid exchange.
Interresting thread... I'm reaching 120k and it's my first auto transmission.
What oil do you use ?
What oil do you use ?
My mistake... I was speaking about transmission fluid...
- Thread starter
- #16
Actually I couldn't find any 0-W40 or 5-W40 so I will be going with 5-W30 synthetic.
As far as ATF, I have Toyota Type IV in my garage, but owner's manual mentions Dexron II or III so I am a bit confused as to which one to use at the moment. I need to do some more research on here.
Serge
As far as ATF, I have Toyota Type IV in my garage, but owner's manual mentions Dexron II or III so I am a bit confused as to which one to use at the moment. I need to do some more research on here.
Serge
AFT fluid to use is latest version of DEXRON if the manual says Dexron. I also suggest using 1 pint of LUBEGARD RED in the change. This magic stuff is synthetic 'sperm oil' and absolutely the best material to provide velvet smooth clutch lock-up. Greatly improves clutch life and reduces shift shock to the costly hard parts.
