Here's how my sliders look like......
your opinion on sliders please
- Thread starter OILERSrule
- Start date
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2 questions Ron
1 are they welded to the frame?
2 If they are not welded ,have you load tested them for slippage ,bending?
The reason I ask is that I do not wish to weld or drill into the chassis and would like to use brackets/clamps if they are strong enough.
Hi Rosco
The most forward attachpoint is not a clamp but a plate that is bolted to the frame with the bolts that are originally there to attach the tranny/X-fer support.
Since then (three years now) all that happened to them where scratches, but no bending, dents or shifting on the frame.
The clamps fit very tight, I almost have to hammer them in place and then tightening the bolts on top fixes them as if they were welded.
I have to add that several of the U-clamps are on spots where originally something was bolted to the frame (clamps for fuel lines for example). At those spots I just drilled holes in the clamps and used longer than original bolts to refit those fuelline clamps.
Then, during the annual inspection, you can get problems because welding to the chassis has to be done by specialised welders and approved. This is simpler.
Nope. The U-shaped parts fit tight around the frame. Once fitted the clamps are closed and tightened with two bolts each.
The most forward attachpoint is not a clamp but a plate that is bolted to the frame with the bolts that are originally there to attach the tranny/X-fer support.
I 'tested' them in the field. First I tried them with a highjack. They did not move at all. Later they got tested during a trip to Russia ( see my webpage Ron and Yvonne in the Internet ) And they didn't budge at all.
Since then (three years now) all that happened to them where scratches, but no bending, dents or shifting on the frame.
The clamps fit very tight, I almost have to hammer them in place and then tightening the bolts on top fixes them as if they were welded.
I have to add that several of the U-clamps are on spots where originally something was bolted to the frame (clamps for fuel lines for example). At those spots I just drilled holes in the clamps and used longer than original bolts to refit those fuelline clamps.
Neither did I. Apart from the risk of introducing stress to the chassis-metal when welding I wanted sliders I could remove fairly easy for whatever reason.
Then, during the annual inspection, you can get problems because welding to the chassis has to be done by specialised welders and approved. This is simpler.
Square or tube?
I like the look of tube
Ill probably have a flat section on top for a step.Its not urgent ,I have an OEM aluminium tray with canvass coming tomorrow and I want that out of the way 1st
and then there is a windscreen replacement and some rust repair to the bonnet,the 3rd fuel tank ,bullbar sandblast and respray and others
And that's all you have to do?
;p;p
;p;p- Thread starter
- #28
Hay Ron thanks for the pics. I think I will do the same to mount mine. They almost look identical. Great minds think alike!
So you are going for square as well?
In my opinion, if you have a 70-series, square is the only way to go.
The rig is lacking round parts by itself so why add them?
- Thread starter
- #30
Ya box it is 2"x3" look identical to yours and the ones posted at the top I just tucked them under a little more. I will post up pics when finished if I can figure out how.
Box I used is 60x60 mm (little over 2")
I was afraid had mine too close to the body to really safegard it. But you have them narrower?
Looking forward to pictures. Uploading them is really not that difficult
One example... those I made to my 4Runner, but same idea goes to my LC70 also, only shorter.
4Runneri rauad
r.
4Runneri rauad
r.
Nice job you did there Rommi.
You've more welding than just these. Clean welds.
I was about to do it the same way you did. Square box and tubing.
But that adds a lot of weight and since my rig is also my daily driver I choose to lengthen the extension bars an just go for square.
I suppose you fix them to the frame by means of backing plates?
I choosed to use U-shaped fixings to have a better clearance at the bottom. At the front I constructed a fitting that is fitted by longer bolts in the spots where the support for the tranny/x-fer is bolted to the frame.
As one can see from your pictures the plates are extending some centimeters to accomodate the bolts. By using a U-shaped clamp you gain a bit.
Mine look like this at the rear (top picture) and the front (lower picture)
You've more welding than just these. Clean welds.
I was about to do it the same way you did. Square box and tubing.
But that adds a lot of weight and since my rig is also my daily driver I choose to lengthen the extension bars an just go for square.
I suppose you fix them to the frame by means of backing plates?
I choosed to use U-shaped fixings to have a better clearance at the bottom. At the front I constructed a fitting that is fitted by longer bolts in the spots where the support for the tranny/x-fer is bolted to the frame.
As one can see from your pictures the plates are extending some centimeters to accomodate the bolts. By using a U-shaped clamp you gain a bit.
Mine look like this at the rear (top picture) and the front (lower picture)
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that was my concern also... in this truck both sides together weight 44kg-s. For LC70 I will make lighter tubing and i'm trying to manage keep in 30kg limit. If it not possible... i just make simplier square tubing too.
I made first U-bolts from threaded bar (8,8) But bending made those very weak and fragile. So i decided to use backplates. Anyway, there is different possibilities... but one thing I never recommend is welding directly to frame. [/quote]
- Thread starter
- #35
Ron I am wondering what kind of stock you used to make the U brackets. (size and shape) If you dont mind filling me in. Thanks J
To build the U-shapes I used L-shape and flat.
L is 10 mm thick. Flat is 8mm. Both are approx 100 mm wide.
I clamped the L-shape to the frame, horizontal part of the L pointing inward.
Clamped the flat part to the frame, that way that the lower end was supported by the horizontal part of the L. Tacked it, took it off and grinded the horizontal part of the L so the final shape looked lik a U.
Did the final welding to connect flat and L. Cut the top-end of the U so it was about 20 mm longer than the hight of the frame. Drilled four holes in the top that way that two 10 mm bolts could pass from inside to outside just on top of the frame. The outside holes were threated so no nuts needed.
Fitted the four clamps.
Meanwhile I constructed the bars with the two crossbeams that should connect to the clamps. I supported this construction that way that the crossbeams were in the right position and against the clamps so I could tackweld clamps and beams.
After that I constructed the front crossbeam that fits on the front bolts of the crossmember that supports the tranny/x-fer.
L is 10 mm thick. Flat is 8mm. Both are approx 100 mm wide.
I clamped the L-shape to the frame, horizontal part of the L pointing inward.
Clamped the flat part to the frame, that way that the lower end was supported by the horizontal part of the L. Tacked it, took it off and grinded the horizontal part of the L so the final shape looked lik a U.
Did the final welding to connect flat and L. Cut the top-end of the U so it was about 20 mm longer than the hight of the frame. Drilled four holes in the top that way that two 10 mm bolts could pass from inside to outside just on top of the frame. The outside holes were threated so no nuts needed.
Fitted the four clamps.
Meanwhile I constructed the bars with the two crossbeams that should connect to the clamps. I supported this construction that way that the crossbeams were in the right position and against the clamps so I could tackweld clamps and beams.
After that I constructed the front crossbeam that fits on the front bolts of the crossmember that supports the tranny/x-fer.