Yet another clunk thread…

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Joined
May 6, 2018
Threads
6
Messages
41
Location
West TX
So my 07 GX470 has this clunk when stopping. I may have read every clunk and pop thread here in the last few months as it’s slowly gotten worse. This isn’t really related to the turning and backing clunks that I can tell. It’s most noticeable at low speed. Barely have to leave the garage to make the noise.

It has a light brake pad slap but the rotors, pads and clips have been replaced in the last year. The clunk is much more solid than the brake noise and comes from the front driver’s side. You can feel it in the body and it kinda sounds like the driver’s front coil spring is resonating as if it got tapped by a hammer. It makes the noise when braking from all speeds BUT ONLY if I’ve just accelerated normally or hard. If I baby it up to speed then hit the brakes, no clunk. If I accelerate and then shift to neutral before braking, no clunk. It doesn’t make the ratcheting sounds described in some transfer case threads but seems like it has to be drivetrain related with no clunking in neutral.

All stock mechanically with 127k miles. Dealership records show airbag replacement just before I got it. That was almost four years ago to replace a totaled 05 and I have changed all fluids at least once. Premium synthetic oils. Toyota filters, ATF, brake fluid and antifreeze only. Always ahead of recommended schedule. Also grease the driveshafts and u joints every other year.

It doesn’t get driven a bunch and I like to work on it. Maybe 10k miles yearly. Was hoping the noise was from the CV axle as it was torn and submerged but just replaced it and no difference. Tried unhooking the anti sway bar links, no change. Maybe it’s the transfer case? It doesn’t have the leaky actuator and hasn’t been run low as far as I know. There is a very slight change in pitch in gear noise coming from the transfer case shifter when the suspension compresses even a tiny bit at highway speed. I’ve got fresh Michelins and a fair amount of Damplifier pro in the doors and floor so it’s extra quiet. Might not hear the slight gear noise with mud tires. I even put sound deadener inside the factory skid plates because why not? I love the quiet ride.

Ball joints seem fairly tight. No discernible play. Not loose. Smooth. Same with the tie rods and end links. Sway bar bushings are slightly worn and replacements are on the way. Control arm bushings also seem to be in good shape and their fasteners snug. No rust or damage. Some of you would probably make fun of how clean the frame is. I had enough fun punishing Kawasakis and chevys in the mud years ago and am trying to make this my last set of wheels. It’s the only ride that hasn’t annoyed me in some way. Until this clunk anyway.

Guess I’ll pull the front driveshaft tomorrow and feel the u joints. Probably throw it around more without the sway bar to look for other symptoms. Maybe I shouldn’t rule out shock noise? If you have any ideas please let me know.
 
I have a similar clunk often. It always goes away after greasing the slip yolks on the driveshaft. Last time i had to pump a ton of grease in the front slip yolk to quiet it down. Noise from the front shaft can sound just like a suspension clunk.

The shafts on these vehicles really need a full grease (slip yolks and U joints) at every oil change (5k) to keep them quiet. Every other year is not enough.
 
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I also notice if you go offroad and articulate the rear axle you need to grease the rear more frequently as well
 
Lower control arm bushings?
 
Thanks for that Rednexus. I went over them again. Think I was doing five pumps on the grease gun or until I felt resistance, usually in the U joints. I had just done that the other day. It always worked on the rear driveshaft clunk in my old 05. Did ten in both, stil clunking. Fifteen more in the front, still clunking. Should I give it more miles or just add more already? The noise is coming from the front driveshaft area. It may have some kind of scoring or groove worn in by now. Didn’t take the driveshaft out yet because I don’t want to risk changing anything if more grease works. I have an amazing ability to do things wrong.

It goes off road fairly often but just to the farm or out shooting. The biggest hills for hundreds of miles around me are paved. Slick roads and flash floods are the worst conditions in my area. But I have pulled a few ladies out of mud roads or ditches.

Your GX is my favorite on this site. The drawers with tools underneath in cutouts are super cool.
 
OK after reading online I went ahead and put a bunch more grease in it. Would really like to go for a test drive and see if it cured it but this happened with my NAPA cv shaft. It went around the block twice. I planned on it being temporary until I found a Toyota unit or rebuilt my old one but I was thinking months, not minutes.

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This just keeps getting better. Have time before work to knock it out or so I thought. There are some cutaways that I thought were the knocking pads to bonk it out. No, they’re just made of rubber so I had to order a CV puller. It should be here tomorrow.
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Looks like your sway bar end link has left this world. Maybe it took out the boot on its way?
 
Oh man, maybe it did. I thought I had it tied high enough to where it wasn’t in the way but it sure seems like something got in there to destroy the boot I probably didn’t break 20 miles an hour or throw it around as planned. Just some medium effort starts and stops.
 
Thats probably the noise you were hearing if it was missing all along. Lots of people have tried to make sway bar disconnects for this chassis but you really can't do it without cutting the bar and making the end removeable where it bolts to the spindle or by letting it slide on the end link while still being bolted in place. Just removing one side destroys CV boots which is for sure the cause of your CV being destroyed if that end link was missing all along. Lots of threads documenting this on the FJ forums
 
Yeah, I’m just dumb and let the sway bar rip the boot. Picked up the dunce cap I earned. A split boot. It was real close to the right size. NAPA axles are smaller than Toyota. Hopefully it holds until the reboot kit arrives for the original shaft. The puller looks promising.
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Glad you figured it out. Using a slide hammer is the way to do CVs. I have one with a "hook" that goes into the recess on the axle, that style looks even easier honestly.
 
Still clunking After 20 or so miles. Now it does it without having to gas it first. Braking hard enough to make the front end dip is all it takes. Maybe letting it hang to full extension moved something loose or broken inside the shock?

Every greaseable bit on the driveline is thoroughly lubed. And I ran out of grease doing that. There really isn’t much travel in the front shaft. Less than 1/4” by my eye. However much fore & aft movement from the engine twisting a bit I reckon.

Bushings are a little bit cracked but look fine to me. This GX has been babied and garaged.

Gonna look for shocks next. Would much rather buy skid plates or auxiliary tank. Or a Prospeed rack.
 
Other clunk sources I have had include:

1. Loose sway bar end links (where they attach to the steering knuckle)
2. Loose steering rack bolts
3. Worn our steering rack bushings
4. Loose skid plate bolts

Looks like you're on the OEM shocks. I think it's unusual something will break inside them, but they probably are worn out if they are original to the vehicle.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I ruled out loose plates and links by removing them. It has a resonance to it that I was attributing to plates but am now thinking it’s the spring. Will double check the steering. At least I’m really familiar with the suspension now. Might do a slight lift after all.

Was gonna be lazy and order assembled shocks but will respring myself instead. At $130 vs $600 its silly not to reuse them. Thought the shocks were higher. Plus I really like the way higher mile Toyota trucks ride. Part of that has to be broken in springs. We have a 2010 Camry with 158k my wife picked up for the kids to learn to drive in. Really like driving it except for the plastic interior. Really miss my 99 Camry. Shouldn’t have sold it.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I ruled out loose plates and links by removing them. It has a resonance to it that I was attributing to plates but am now thinking it’s the spring. Will double check the steering. At least I’m really familiar with the suspension now. Might do a slight lift after all.

Was gonna be lazy and order assembled shocks but will respring myself instead. At $130 vs $600 its silly not to reuse them. Thought the shocks were higher. Plus I really like the way higher mile Toyota trucks ride. Part of that has to be broken in springs. We have a 2010 Camry with 158k my wife picked up for the kids to learn to drive in. Really like driving it except for the plastic interior. Really miss my 99 Camry. Shouldn’t have sold it.
You may get lucky with this course of action. My DS spring would contact the shock body with a clunk in certain conditions. Usually reversing with near steering lock, but other times too. Changed out stock springs with HD's and it resolved my particular clunk completely. Maybe a little coilover manipulation will fix you up!
 
So I thought the shocks I had ordered were some slightly sketchy broker but they’re counterfeit parts from Alibaba or something. Almost settled for digressive Bilsteins. Now Dobinsons are on the way. They don’t offer a stock height front spring in that snazzy teal so I may try to find a comparable spray paint for my factory springs.
 
Might look at it tomorrow. It started popping at low speed without any braking or suspension compression while in gear but not in neutral. Gearing down at low speed reproduces it so maybe front diff or transfer case. Bummer. Not something I want to open but I’ve built a few GM axles so not totally helpless.

ETA: Searched again because I really don’t want this to be powertrain related. Found a very similar noise that was caused by a loose bumper. Didn’t help me but maybe it will work for someone else.

Front end clunk - https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/front-end-clunk.138929/page-2 Post 22

 
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Pulled the front driveshaft. No change. The driveshaft wasn’t easy to compress and put up a fight. I probably overpacked it with grease. Everything seems to be really fresh and in excellent condition. Gonna go ahead and find some ball joints with grease zerks and give the control arms a closer look, tear it down and plop the original CV shaft back in. No rush aside from I hate having it not in working order.
 
Pulled the front driveshaft. No change. The driveshaft wasn’t easy to compress and put up a fight. I probably overpacked it with grease. Everything seems to be really fresh and in excellent condition. Gonna go ahead and find some ball joints with grease zerks and give the control arms a closer look, tear it down and plop the original CV shaft back in. No rush aside from I hate having it not in working order.
Still there. The new shock didn’t help. Neither did the puller I posted above. It wouldn’t fit behind the little zinc plated shield and if it had probably would’ve boogered it up. I should’ve noticed that but honestly didn’t really look much. Just liked the tool. Olathe Toyota had the CV axles on for less than $400 each so I bought those. The Napa axle came out real easy with the spindle removed. Off to order control arms. At least I cleaned it up a bit waiting on tha axles.

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