Yet another 101

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So i just spent a good while looking up a wealth of info RE the M101's here and i will have a few questions for the experts.
I looked into buying a pintle hook yesterday and i can't believe how loose they are, I think way too much noise for me so i saw a couple of cool ideas on here to cut it down, One being to cut up some rad hose to cover the eye and the other being the little metal insert that someone fabbed to lessen the play in the hook.
So what i was wondering is has anyone ever cut off the eye only and leave the swivel pin then weld on a coupler like this one in the pic below?
What type of articulation would this give?
This is the only pic i could find and i cannot see what the other end is like, Maybe there is a hole that the shaft of the pintle hook would fit into for welding?
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gavman said:
1. So what i was wondering is has anyone ever cut off the eye only and leave the swivel pin then weld on a coupler like this one in the pic below?


2. What type of articulation would this give?
Click to expand...

1. Yes, this has been done but with a different coupler.


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2. The side to side would still be the same as with the lunette/pintle hook set up. But, what you would lose is the front to rear articulation as seen in this photo. Ball hicthes will not give anywhere near the articulation that the lunette/pintle hook will in this axis of motion.
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Here is a excellent hitch that you could use. I saw it first hand at cruiser moab and was really impressed. A little pricey but it would be well worth it. www.adventuretrailers.com

Couplers and Pins








SAFETY: This is a heavy duty product. These hitch and couplers are designed and manufactured by a blacksmithing family who trace their skills back five generations. All units conform to the requirements of SAE standard J684 and are tested by independent labs.
360° ROTATION & THREE AXIS OF MOVEMENT: This eliminates twisting damage to vehicle & trailer frames caused by sudden changes in vehicle-trailer orientation while off roading.
POSITIVELY SECURED CONNECTION: Once the latch plates are locked in place Lock N' Roll® will never pop off like ball hitches do. Everything is in plain view to eliminate any question of whether or not the trailer is hitched correctly. The positively secured connection keeps you in control so minor mishaps on the road don't turn into major accidents.
EASY TO USE Lock N' Rolls® wider range of movement makes it easy to couple and uncouple.
DRIVING COMFORT: Lock N' Roll® provides a very tight, close fitting connection that eliminates "thunk & jerk" action of conventional hitches. Nearly any terrain can be negotiated safely making this hitch ideal for off road. The 360 degrees rotation along with the left to right and up and down articulation allows fantastic maneuverability especially when backing a trailer into position.
Adjustable Height Drop/Rise Bar Hitch, 6000 lb Gross Trailer Weight: This hitch bolts into the 1" dia. hole that had been used for a ball mounted on the standard 2-1/2 wide drop/rise bar that slides into a standard 2" square receiver tube. It can bolt on from either side but must be used with the slots facing up. Drop/Rise bar is not included. 6 lbs.
2" square slide in coupler, 6000 lbs gross trailer weight
This is for trailers with a tongue constructed of 2" ID tubing.( The same as a receiver tube.) P/N 212 slides into the trailer tongue and is bolted in place for easy removal. 9 lb
Cost: $180.00
 
Bought the Pintle hook today, so I'm gonna try this for awhile and experiment with some of the ideas on here for noise reduction and maybe a few of my own.
Haven't picked up the trailer yet as the guy wasn't home so hopefully tomorrow!
So who has installed electric brakes on there's and was it worth it?
I like the top on the trailer below so I'm thinking of maybe ordering a sheet of cheker-plate aluminium for this (Have a buddy in the metal industry so cheaper)
and i was thinking maybe 1/8 or 3/16 in thickness.
What do you guys recommend for this? My buddy says 1/8 is lots but i tend to build in a little extra insurance in my projects.
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1/8 for a top is WAY too much in my opinion, I would look into a tube frame and then skin it out in a thinner material.

You will get the strength then, and keep the weight down a lot too.

Just my .02

Drew
 
By the time you make a frame and skin it out I'll bet it works out to the same weight . A sheet of 10ga aluminun is very light and very strong. Just my humble opinion.
 
73fj said:
By the time you make a frame and skin it out I'll bet it works out to the same weight . A sheet of 10ga aluminun is very light and very strong. Just my humble opinion.
Click to expand...

That's what i was thinking, plus i like the cleaner look without the frame.
 
So I'm gonna lengthen the front shafts this coming Saturday by about a foot to 16 inches and have a length of 1/8 wall 3x 1,1/2 inch tube at a buddy's place for free.
Is this strong enough, I will have a 25 gallon water tank in front (inside the box) and MAYBE a rack for my dirt-bike for occasional use...Tongue weight loaded should be in the three to four hundred pound range depending on what i balance the rear with.
Opinions welcomed:):):)
 
When your driving the pintle is not an issue. It is not really noisey or anything. I hate ball hitches. Always hard to get on and off, need adjustment and all that crap. Pintles are dead simple.

The only advantage to a ball is manuvering. The ball is a little tighter for that, But the pintle works fine for me.
 
I have not taken mine offroad, but on road it is quite. I thought noise was going to be an issue also but it turned out to be quiter than I thought, dont notice it at all actually? I was going to go with that fancy hitch for $180 but glad I stayed with the pintle!Roberto
 
So here's Saturdays progress,
Installed the six bolt hubs with electric brakes. 33 inch MT fit real nice :D
Removed the front tow-bar assembly and cut the hole for the receiver hitch in the rear.
I also dry fitted a 25 gallon Todd water tank which fits like a glove, I just need to change the hole locations.
Gonna order the new channel tonight as well as some tube for the rear bumper...
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More...
What do you guys think of locating the water tank at the front like shown?
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How do I get to post these all in one post?
Check the cool mud-flaps i got a couple years ago for 50 cents at a garage sale
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Groovy mud-flaps. Tank location looks great & possibly flush w/top of tub.

That's 200lbs of h20, plus the weight of the tank: I'm guessing the rear bumper will balance the weight out somewhat?

This is me being jealous... :popcorn::beer:
 
Wow, great progress and choice of parts!

I think your water tank is in the second best position available. I would venture that above the axle and just slightly forward would be optimum, but there isn't as much space there as you probably would need. That said, I think forward in the tub is the next best place for sure.

Looks great, keep up the good work!

Rezarf <><
 
nice water tank! only issue I see is lifting the tounge when that is full. But a jack on the tounge should fix that.

How much was the electric brake conversion??
 
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