Yellowbox install

[Mike6158]

I took a different approach to installing my Yellowbox than other posts that I've seen. They folks at Yellowbox gave me the idea. The install turned into a lot more. The seats are out. The stereo amp is out (going to try to fix it). The part of the dash that holds the power jacks are out. I reworked a 12VDC connection that someone hacked all up and covered with electrical tape. I'm going to try to fit a plate in the hole that is the ashtray now. I want more power jacks. Specifically a mix of USB and cigarette lighter plugs. The center console is out. Brackets are removed for de-rusting and painting. I spent the day getting about 2/3 done.

I made money on this deal. I found a 5$ Mexican coin, a quarter, a dime, and a nickel. The PO used to scout movie sites in Mexico... I hope that's what he was doing

Here's the first part of the Yellowbox install. I left the cable loose because I won't know exactly where it's going to route and be placed until the console is back in.

First I drilled an 1/8" pilot hole to make sure this area wasn't double walled. The bigger circle marks the location of an opening in a bracket that I remove to de-rust and paint it. Then I opened the hole up to 5/16" since that is the grommet that I had (5/16" x 3/16'). I also deburred the hole a little so a sharp edge wouldn't cut through the grommet.

ALSO- DON'T LEAVE METAL SHAVINGS FROM DRILLING THE HOLE LAYING AROUND. They go places they shouldn't and start rusting. I doubt if it would happen but they could get into switches and plugs.

Next I installed the grommet. The cable fits through a 3/16" grommet perfectly.

About now I should mention that I had to cut the end of the cable off so I could push it through the hole. I left about an 18" tail on the end of the YB plug. I can splice the cable. I'll solder the wires together, cover the connection with a little RTV, slide the head shrink tubing over it, heat shrink. Moisture proof and very durable. I use this technique when I do outdoor and boat wiring. I used high temp electrical RTV around the grommet and cable top and bottom. I also pulled the cable in a little, put RTV on it, and then pushed it into the grommet.

Here's a quick look at the underside before I connected everything up and RTV's the grommet and cable. I didn't glop the RTV on. I used a thin coat and worked it under the edge of the grommet and around the wire.

And here it is waiting for the console and brackets to go back in. That won't happen until later in the week

 

[ihadmail]

That looks great. I will most likely be following this same process when I can finally get the time to rip my interior out. It'll be a lengthy install as I am doing a full stereo setup, cb radio, trailer brake controller, aux fuse panel in the rear and the yellowbox all at the same time.

Thanks for the pics!

 

[Mike6158]

The seats were easy to remove. Just 4 bolts and disconnect the control cable (probably power). The console comes out in sections. Just pull some screws on the side. My brackets were rusty so I cleaned them up and painted them. I made a thread about that.

I just ordered aux fuse panels and new power sockets from Amazon. I found a nice "panel" for the rear that has a pair of USB jacks and a power socket.

I'm going to try to test and repair my amp (if it needs repair) but so far it's not looking good for finding schematics or wiring diagrams.

I'm going to install one of my Ham rigs. It'll either be an all mode HF/VHF/UHF rig or just VHF/UHF. I won't know until it's installed

I like the idea of an aux fuse panel in the back. I'd add another USB / power socket panel too...

I found some 8 gauge zip cord (red and black color code) that I'm going to feed my rear panel stuff with. Fused of course.