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Want a plug? I think I have one.:hmm:<<<<<<<<Free
 
I do not see any screws. this is an early light switch? i thought the early headlamp switches rotated instead of pulling out? :confused:
 
The lightswitch is for a [FONT=arial, helvetica]68-9/71 cruiser.

I'm not sure about a convoy mode... but it is a two step pull switch. First step turns on the marker lights. Full pull turns on the head lights.
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I do not see any screws. this is an early light switch? i thought the early headlamp switches rotated instead of pulling out? :confused:

The early rotary switches had the convoy mode, with a certain position of the switch, only the rear lights came on. That ended with the push-pull switch.
 
I know it takes some time but I usually get some wire to a batt. and a light tester, just start testing in the different positions.
 
Want a plug? I think I have one.:hmm:<<<<<<<<Free

I've actually got two plugs that are keyed correctly(heater I think) along with wires... just no idea what goes where.

One is going to be used for headlights... the other will be used for fog lights:cool:


I meant the RIGHT PLUG for the headlight switch....the one that should have the correct color codes on it:rolleyes:
 
Sorry about that, I forgot!:eek:
 
John,
Not a direct answer to your question but what I did on my later model headlight switch was to take the switch out, lay it on the bench and use a multimeter in the 'continuity mode' to determine what was what. One could use the resistance function to do the same thing, I just like the little beeps my Fluke offers instead of interpreting a reading of resistance. Of course an understanding of what each position of the switch should provide was helpful to me.

Hope this is not more confusing but of use to you.
 
Looking at the picture further, 2or 5 should be 12V in, 3 & 6 should be tail/dash and 1 & 4 should be headlights. Without having it in front of me with a multimeter that's as good as I can surmise. You could also bend the small locking tabs by terminals 1/4 & 3/6 to open it up to see what's going on inside. As the shaft/knob is pulled, an interior conductor will slide making contact with different terminals to direct the voltage to the various terminals/circuits.

get your multimeter and open the switch carefully. It's pretty simple/ingenious.
 
Here's some piss-poor artwork of what I'm talking about.

OFF
headlightswitch-OFF.JPG

TAIL/DASH ONLY
headlightswitch-TAIL.JPG

HEAD/TAIL
headlightswitch-HEADTAIL.JPG
headlightswitch-OFF.JPG
headlightswitch-TAIL.JPG
headlightswitch-HEADTAIL.JPG
 
dgangle, I was going to use that as a last resort:lol:

The difficult part is not knowing which wire is the power wire.

I'd put money on 2 and/or 5

take it apart carefully and put it back the same. Won't hurt a thing. Based on stuff you've built/fab'd this is a .00000000001 :banana: job.
 
Forget what I said before regarding the terminals. see that soldered jumper between 4 & 5? That is key.

2 power in
1 headlights out
4 tail/dash
3 & 6 uncertain. maybe the 'convoy' (tail lights only) ??????
5 nothing
 
good. while my answers may not have been exact, hope my reasoning helped you to some avail.
 
that's not agony, it's FUN! Takes all types, huh?

Do you have/can get a wiring diagram for the vehicle?
 
This pic might help a bit.

If I can remember, tonight I'll verify the contacts but just looking at the schematic it works as follows:

Park position ties Terminal 5 (R = +12V) to Terminal 2 (G = Park Lights) and Terminal 6 (RB = Gauge Lights) via the jumper on the switch turning on Park Lights and dash lights.

Headlight position does all the above and adds Terminal 1 (RW = Dimmer switch) turning on the headlights.
IMG_3668.JPG
 

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