Would like advice on body lifting an 80 (1 Viewer)

[Project FJ80]

While my cummins engine sits on the garage floor looking like it needs a place to go, and my Krawlers ripping my fender flares off when compressed,
I Belive I am in need of a body lift.
I know of 2 kinds, They kind you buy, and the kind you have fabbed.
I was thinking of getting the 3" body lift from marks adapters.. but I always heard and read that it puts so much added stress on thoes 12 points, that it seems like that might not be the way to go.

I have also read about Moving (cutting) the Original mounts and moving them up by 3-4" They say you get a much better ride, and its not as harsh since your using the oem mounts and equipment.

So, I am thinking I will be better off if I were to cut and paste.
Though... If I do decide to go that way, SHould I go 75mm or 100mm higher.
I figure 3" should be more than enough for everything, and If I do actually need 4" , I could always buy a 1" lift.

2nd question, Should I order up new oem rubber mounts, Or would I be better off going with a poly. type replacement, and ditch the rubber mounts?

I already have a 6" suspension lift, But the Tires and taller engine require more.

-Ron

 

[Project FJ80]

Alright well,
Im going to go ahead and move the body mounts up by 3" instead of buying the Kit.
Im still wondering about weather or not to use rubber or poly for the mounts. Ive herd rubber is nice for a comfy ride, but the poly would hold up better, and may absorb shock where the rubber would transfer it to the inside....??
Then, Ill pull the engine and trans, and mount the Cummins and Allision to where it needs to go.
So far the cost of all this is only at 2500 for engine and trans, + 1000 for body work and then what ever else I need to make it all work again... So... id say 5K to do the swap.

 

[desertdude]

there might be some info found here - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

 

[Tools R Us]

I did a little research for a possible one inch body lift on my truck. Not a fan of them, but one inch would allow room for longer shocks, flat slider mount arms and routing the exhaust over the frame. The info I found was that over two inches they started cracking the body, no issues with the frame, I don't see how cutting and raising the mounts on the frame will solve that problem? Maybe make a framework to bolt/weld to the body, providing the lift, reinforcing the body and better distribute the load to the body, tie it into the roll cage that you will need with that much weight up high.

What are your goals for this rig? Reading your posts the only ones I could find were, getting 28mpg and spending $50K?

Your talking about swapping the motor, tranny and transfer, then the axles when they break. Wouldn't it be easier to buy a 3/4 ton dodge, remove the dodge body and mount your body on it at whatever height needed? Then you would have the matched drivetrain and could sell the dodge body and 80 drivetrain, recovering most of the cost?

 

[Project FJ80]

I have read on the islandic pages where they do 75-100mm body lifts and 30-60 mm susension lifts. They say the go in, pull the frame up, then cut and weld in new brackets 3-4" higher, keeping the body on oem style mounts, rather than on 3" long spacers which do cause body damage at high angles.
I have a guy that does race car fabrication, who is going to raise them all. I could even have him add in 3-6 more mounts for added structure support.

Then Ill have him tie in a roll cage for additional support to keep the frame from twisting. If i need to, I can add an X-brace to the rear of the frame.
With the stock 4.10 gears, and 37" tires, the cummins engine should be fine, I shouldent be blowing up axles keeping the motor stock, Im not looking to get 300hp and 600tq out of it. But Ill never have to worry about drowning out a diesel in the water as long as my intake is sealed up to the snorkle.

Im going to see about getting an adapter plate for the transfer case. For now that will work fine. Later on, I will get something else.

The cost isint all that bad.
I have already paid 10K for the 80, I paid another 10K for the lift tires rims snorkel, truespeed, cdl, 3" wheel studs, alignment, ballance, hilift, and film.
I will have another 5K with the cummins, trans,, adapter for transfercase,
Body lift, Cummins/trans to be welded/fabircated in place.
and then Ill need a radiator and turbo cooler, a few extension mods for the body lift, and an exhaust+ muffler and drivelines. probably another 2K .so that brings the total to about 27K
After that its just options, Bumpers, lights, cb, swr/ham, onboard air, roofrack,
a welder/alt. , lpg/cng, 2 50Gal diesel tanks,winch, the list of goodies goes on

I want this to be a rig that I can take anywhere, and beable to work on it anywhere. Im a diesel mechanic, so it beats working on a gas engine, + it will last 3X longer. I should easly beable to acheve up to 24mpg on the highway,
and if thats not enough, gearvenders ofers a tranny extension that will lower the rpms by 22%, Which should easly beable to get me in to the 28+ mpg.

Expensive, yes,... but how much do you pay for a New LC100, 40-60K, and it doesent even have a solid front axel.

I am able to do most of all the work myself, so I incure very little labor costs.
This is where I am with her so far.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32085&stc=1


-Ron

 

[RHINO]

raising the frame mounts is a great way to go, thats the way i would do it. but is the only reason for body lifting to clear tires???

i think if you are ready to spend the cash why not order some fender flares from the icelandic guys. HUGE friggen wheelwels.

BTW, i like poly but only black poly. colors squeek cause they dont have the graphite.

 

[Project FJ80]

No no, The body lift is for everything else also,
Larger fuel tanks, the Cummins engine (its a bit taller), a 10-20gal air tank, I also want to experment with under body armor, something not too heavy, but something I can bolt on across the body, notch out areas where the drivelines go. This should help keep some things from getting wacked by rocks or whatever, and have it think enough that it wont be a pain to remove and install, but thick enough to where I dont have to worry about cutting a new peice ever other run. I also dont want to be like a person we saw while out looking at the rock dam. He had a huge angled plate, which got him stuck many times,... Plus.... he was a dumb ass anyways,,, cause that plate caught everything, It was lower than his lift.
I have also seen the fenderflares that you talk about. THey are not the ones from Arctictrucks, But they look just as nice. I just have to find someone who speaks islandic, or norway, to help me get a pair ordered up.
Black poly you say... is the black a little softer than the colors, or does it only have the addition of grapite..

 

[RHINO]

black poly is the only poly that has graphite, graphite is what makes a stealth rig on the trail. if it werent for the engine, you wouldnt hear me crawling on the rocks.

the lift you currently have is plenty for the difference in the cummins, it only needs about 3". 10-20 gal air tank is freakin huge man, what ya need that for? i have about a 3-1/2 gal and a 5 woulda been nice, but its plenty with the 10CFM compressor i run. i actually sprayed my rig with my rig LOL.

 

[Project FJ80]

Well, I figure If i have a 10 gal (long, as to be smaller in dia.) That will help with filling the 37" Krawlers from 20 or loweer psi up to the rated 35psi. Also, I can run split lines to fill 2 tires at a time, Untill I find away to install a CTIS system... but I dont think thats possible with the toyota axles.
I can install a york compressor belt driven + tank and acessories for cheaper than it would cost for a york portable style. Mmmm... Air horns.

Sounds like the Black poly is the way to go. Do you know where I might beable to find or order them for my application?

Also, does anyone know who this truck belongs to,
I would love to beable to do this. Or at least hear how it works, and if its realistic or not.

 

[RHINO]

looks like one of slee's rigs. prolly his wishbone suspension. poly can be had anywhere just order the black instead of a color. CTIS is possible with the truck, i have seen it on semi rigs and they have regular solid axles, more practical though to just get the wireless moniters in the rims and disply for the dash. dual hoses would be cool if you had the system regulated at the PSI you wanted (35) and more than a 10CFM york otherwise you use the air from the tank filling two tires at once and you'll have to wait for it to fill again or just run off the compressor anyway,,,

 

[Tools R Us]

Looks like Ben Silva's old truck 3 link front w/panhard, 3 link wishbone rear. I heard the highway handling was not exactly relaxing, some good ideas on that truck.

 

[Project FJ80]

Yeah,
It looks like a very capeable truck off road, but it doesent look like it has much linkage to keep it on road.
Unless,... what if you went with the wishbone setup, and kept your link suspension (the 2 links that go from your axle to your frame) but make it a quick disconnect, like how they make them for sway bars. so when you got on the tail, you could unhook your 2 links for the extra suspension movement, and then when your done with the trail, hook them back up. OR is this something that would not be realistic?
As far as the 10 gal tank goes.. I think that would beable to fill 2 tires at the same time fast. then by the time I got the hose around to the other side to fill the other two tires, I should have enough air to fill them with out having to wait for a full recharge.

 

[RHINO]

ya know there is such a thing as too much flex.

 

[Project FJ80]

I do I do....
Also, Just because you can get a good # on that ramp, Does not mean that it makes your rig any better on the trail.