Worth Replacing the spindle? (1 Viewer)

[Batameez]

Tell me your opinion on the condition of this spindle and axle shaft.

Background: Bought this truck over a year ago. Noticed minor wheel bearing play upon inspection, but the price was right. The truck normally sits and does my dad's 5 mile commute at most. This weekend he noticed the some excessive steering play. It was promptly parked as I was away on a work trip. Got back today with some energy, a four day weekend, and some overtime coming in; so I want this fixed.

Getting ready to order parts. I'm sure I could replace everything down to the birfield and axle seals, but I'd like to keep this project only so deep for now. I'm currently ordering new studs, washers, retaining rings, lock nuts, and dust caps for the hubs. I have all the necessary seals and gaskets as well. New Timken bearings and EBC brake kits on the shelf as well. Should I replace the spindle right now as well? There is a wear mark, and I'm assuming that if you can feel it with a finger nail, then it is trash. Sound right? I'm looking at Joint Fuji replacements from a highly recommended source here.

I currently do not notice any birfield soup, but I'm guessing that the old axle seal may have gotten a workout from all the shaft movement. Again I'd like to do the birfield deep dive later(looking like July). Attached is a video. I haven't taken one of these apart yet but let me know if the upward spring of the birfield is normal or a sign of deeper damage. At first glance I was scared it was bent.

 

[BILT4ME]

What year is this truck?

Looks like 91, 92, or early 93 because the drive flange may have been replaced with a later year and now the birfield is too short.

How does the seal surface at the back of the spindle look? Threads wise, it looks ok.

How thick are the spacers on the hub? That's scary.

Yes, Cruiser Outfitters is an excellent source for parts.

 

[Batameez]

What year is this truck?

Looks like 91, 92, or early 93 because the drive flange may have been replaced with a later year and now the birfield is too short.

How does the seal surface at the back of the spindle look? Threads wise, it looks ok.

How thick are the spacers on the hub? That's scary.

Yes, Cruiser Outfitters is an excellent source for parts.

This is a 1996 FZJ80. Does not appear to have had birfields replaced in it's 250k miles. I threaded a bolt into the shaft which exposed the snap ring groove. It was simply pushed inward in that picture. Just how it looked at first glance. I did not remove the spindle to inspect behind. I reassembled as best as I could and parked it. Too sketch to drive. There are no wheel spacers, those are the cheap ass aftermarket wheels! Going to swap these 285s on to the OEM wheels soon. These are pure junk.

 

[BILT4ME]

This is a 1996 FZJ80. Does not appear to have had birfields replaced in it's 250k miles. I threaded a bolt into the shaft which exposed the snap ring groove. It was simply pushed inward in that picture. Just how it looked at first glance. I did not remove the spindle to inspect behind. I reassembled as best as I could and parked it. Too sketch to drive. There are no wheel spacers, those are the cheap ass aftermarket wheels! Going to swap these 285s on to the OEM wheels soon. These are pure junk.

The seal surface I'm asking about is the visible rear surface where the hub seal has contact. If the wheel bearings are severely loose it can cut the top of the seal surface on the spindle. Then any new seal will not seal due to the groove.

When you redo the bearings, make sure you tighten the inside set to 35 lb-ft while turning, then lock ring, then 45 lb-ft on the outer locknut. Then fold over the tab.

 

[Batameez]

The seal surface I'm asking about is the visible rear surface where the hub seal has contact. If the wheel bearings are severely loose it can cut the top of the seal surface on the spindle. Then any new seal will not seal due to the groove.

When you redo the bearings, make sure you tighten the inside set to 35 lb-ft while turning, then lock ring, then 45 lb-ft on the outer locknut. Then fold over the tab.

Looks like corrosion and/or dirt buildup to me. I'd assume that is the seal surface? Just to confirm, that upward bend of the birfield in the spindle is normal? Making sure nothing is bent.

 

[BILT4ME]

Looking more closely, I'm noticing this:

View attachment 2984071

Looks like corrosion and/or dirt buildup to me. I'd assume that is the seal surface? Just to confirm, that upward bend of the birfield in the spindle is normal? Making sure nothing is bent.

The spindle is not bent. The axle (birfield) inside is tilted up due to a missing snap ring and the drive flange being removed.

This is all about loose wheel bearings.

Get the wheel bearing/ hub kits from C.O. and go through all of it.

You may need a spindle bushing or bearing at some point.

Do you have the FSM?

What's your skill level?

 

[Batameez]

My shopping carts are currently looking like this:

I already have new wheel seals and lock washers as I anticipated this to be a good old brake job and regrease at first.

 

[Batameez]

The spindle is not bent. The axle (birfield) inside is tilted up due to a missing snap ring and the drive flange being removed.

This is all about loose wheel bearings.

Get the wheel bearing/ hub kits from C.O. and go through all of it.

You may need a spindle bushing or bearing at some point.

Do you have the FSM?

What's your skill level?

See the above post and let me know. Basically everything short of pulling the birfields and steering swivels. I'll just scoop out the old birfield grease and pump in fresh stuff while it is somewhat exposed. I think I'll just do the spindles now.

I have a PDF copy of the FSM. Planning to get a hardcopy sooner than later. Already a lifelong hoarder of 3rd gen 4Runner documentation, so I'll get there. The PDF should do. I've been using that Sixth Gear Garage video. I have the fish scale to test after I torque the bearings.

I'd put myself at intermediate in terms of actual diagnosing. The messy part swapping in well within my league. I work in the maintenance engineering for that evil e-commerce company with robots.

 

[BILT4ME]

See the above post and let me know. Basically everything short of pulling the birfields and steering swivels. I'll just scoop out the old birfield grease and pump in fresh stuff while it is somewhat exposed. I think I'll just do the spindles now.

I have a PDF copy of the FSM. Planning to get a hardcopy sooner than later. Already a lifelong hoarder of 3rd gen 4Runner documentation, so I'll get there. The PDF should do. I've been using that Sixth Gear Garage video. I have the fish scale to test after I torque the bearings.

I'd put myself at intermediate in terms of actual diagnosing. The messy part swapping in well within my league. I work in the maintenance engineering for that evil e-commerce company with robots.

Just clean off the spindle. You can clean the far back part with a Scotch Brite pad to examine the seal surface. What looks like rust is burnt bearing grease from loose wheel bearings. Just clean it up and smear a lot that coat of wheel bearing grease on it.

Make sure your new bearings seat all the way to the back of the spindle prior to assembly. Just slide it on by hand, dry.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Is that a melted on hub seal?
Out board of your lower arrow is the bearing seat, where the inner race rides. Make sure there isn't a step where the inner race was running/spinning on the spindle.

 

[Batameez]

I probably should do new axles seals and swap birfield sides like one user recommended, but I am not looking to get that deep into the job for now.

I have some fresh moly grease coming in to repack the birfield housings once I get the spindle off. Followed this thread and ordered some Valvoline Synthetic grease since it has moly in it. I normally use Palladium in the birfields but it is not sold in 1 lb tubs. I intend to use this in the wheel bearings too, as it meets spec. Plus I like synthetic since it gets cold here.