Working Class BJ40 (1 Viewer)

[Edward531]

Hi, I just want to share my experience with my BJ40 (If indeed it is a 40, as of today I am clueless as to what year or particular model it is).
My journey with my Landcruiser started a little over two years ago (April 2011). It was given to me by my uncle when I became a lawyer. It was previously used by another uncle building hi-tension power lines towers in the mountains of the Philippines. When he passed away, it was put in storage for the last 15 or so years before it was given to me.
When I got it, we just put new oil and a new battery and drove 120 km to Manila from the province without incident. For the next two weeks, I worked on it to make it reliable before I start my new job. Before becoming a lawyer I use to do this http://edward531.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=crawlerphotosandvideos&action=display&thread=7
while studying in law school. So working on a real 40 in a big step to say the least.
At this point I already decided that the 40 will be my daily driver. Below are some photos of the repairs I made either by myself or with the help of others.

What I know so far is, well it has a Toyota B Engine with Rotary Injection Pump, 4 Speed, whether it’s an H41 or H42 is beyond me. I highly suspect that it was from a Dyna or something else. The reverse on the shift pattern is on the bottom right. And judging by what I saw when we brought the tranny down for replacement of seals and a new clutch, it appears to be previously a column shift type tranny (I mean, what do I know).

I went from extensive repairs and maintenance every weekend and an average of one minor breakdown every month for the next six months. But now its mostly regular maintenance with no major breakdowns for the last 12 months. My wife hated it, but I loved the experience and the knowledge I learned along the way. During rainy seasons, I had to pass through several flooded areas on my route which is between 6 inches to 3’5 ft. These are the times I truly appreciate the my cruiser, my does too when she’s with me.

Recently I finally completed a 2.5 inch lift and much needed maintenance with the help of some very good friends.
http://www.rideoffroad.com/brand.php?id=1
https://www.facebook.com/alltraction
Rebuilt/Calibrated Injection Pump
2.5 Skyjacker Lift
New TREs
Pro comp ES1000s
and new shackles.

Since this is my first landcruiser, I really have no comparison as to how a proper cruiser should drive, but the new suspension and other misc. steering parts really improved the ride of my 40.
A few big items left on my list would be a proper frame off and engine rebuild.
Most if not all of my repairs were done over the weekend or a maximum of 4 days on the average since this is my daily driver.
Lastly, I want to thank Lostmarbles (Tom) and the other very active members here who are always ready to give help and information. Thanks to all of you, I learned a lot just by reading your contributions.



Ted

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Ted.

I see this is your very first post .. so welcome to ih8mud..

Very nice straight cruiser!

Any chance of some more pics inside your engine bay so we can perhaps try and identify your engine?

From your VIN plate we can see it obviously was originally a standard BJ40 with 2977cc indirect-injection diesel. But I think BJ40 still remains the best description even though it's undergone some radical changes with its unusual engine/gearbox, non-OEM dash gauges and different steering column etc.



PS. Is that a new AC compressor I see sitting there awaiting connection to the rest of the AC setup?

 

[Edward531]

Hi Tom, thanks for the warm welcome. Yes, that’s an AC compressor, Sanden 508, I was told, but now it’s connected and being used. When I got the 40 my main problem was identifying all the parts used, in this “Radical” conversion. Radical is a rather nice description, thanks. I used far less nicer words when I first saw what I was dealing with. But hey, it was free so who am I to complain.
The first few things I addressed was the starter, a complete rebuild was made to make it reliable. I then change the alternator using a Brand new 110 amp Hyundai unit. I identified the air filter botch job to be from a Mitsubishi Canter Truck, the Power Steering is from a Coaster, I suspect. I was not going for OEM obviously at that time. I was more after the reliability, availability of spares and cost to keep it running. I really wanted the idea of driving it daily to work. So far after two year, it has served me well. The instrument gauges work but really leaves something to be desired. The cost of a brand new OEM here is around $600. I’d rather spend that at this time in on more critical parts. Like I said, an engine rebuild is scheduled for next year. I really don’t trust the maintenance record on the 40, so my plan is to redo everything in small steps. I can’t really blame them since this was used in the rural areas with very limited parts or quality service.
Main current issue now is with the injection pump. Although it was recently rebuilt by a Bosch certified calibration center, it came back running rather less punchy compared before. I don’t know if it is the timing or something else. Before I brought it for repair due to leaking fuel in the IP body, I really feel the throttle response to be very good. Now, to me it lags a bit, I guess they calibrated it for better fuel consumption or something. Without prior landcruiser experience, I can’t really say what’s acceptable or not, but at least the leak is gone. I’ll have it returned to the center when schedule permits.

In terms of cost ( to keep the wife off my back), the idea is, a restored (restomodded) cruiser will cost about as much as a three year old mid-size sedan ($ 10,000-15,0000) while a brand new hilux will set me back almost $800 in monthly payments for 5 years excluding the 20% value of the down payment. I don’t spend that on my monthly maintenance and I have two other vehicles I need to maintain. And who wants to drive a sedan in our road conditions. My wife just hates the cruiser when I suffer a roadside breakdown, but that has become a rare occurrence lately. So all is good, I hope. In addition, the cruiser is much more simpler to diagnose and to work on compared to modern vehicles. It’s not as comfortable and lacks the safety feature of new vehicles, but hey, I drive for just a little over two hours a day to and from my place of work, if I want comfort, I’d stay home. As for safety, traffic speed in Manila leaves much to be desired, I’m more afraid for the poor guy whose impact absorbing bumpers will surely crumple when they hit me. And I don’t know, my truck really commands attention especially at intersections such that even new SUVs give way, “like stay away, poorly maintained, may or may not have working brakes or something”.

Regards

Ted

 

[Edward531]

 

[lostmarbles]

Well after seeing the aluminium bellhousing and column-change gearbox top-plate .. I never expected to see an engine that looks so much like the original B (that it would have had when it left the factory) Ted!

I can't get a good view of the injection pump though but you say it is "rotary" rather than "inline"... Right?

Sorry to be such a nuisance, but is it possible to give us a view that shows the injector pump better and also another view that allows us to read that valve cover sticker (showing the tappet clearance figures etc)?



Edit: Maybe my eyes are deceiving me and your bellhousing is cast iron as per the original?

 

[nolX4]

Looks like a fun little rig, nice.

 

[Edward531]

Well after seeing the aluminium bellhousing and column-change gearbox top-plate .. I never expected to see an engine that looks so much like the original B (that it would have had when it left the factory) Ted!

I can't get a good view of the injection pump though but you say it is "rotary" rather than "inline"... Right?

Sorry to be such a nuisance, but is it possible to give us a view that shows the injector pump better and also another view that allows us to read that valve cover sticker (showing the tappet clearance figures etc)?



Edit: Maybe my eyes are deceiving me and your bellhousing is cast iron as per the original?

Hi Tom, here’s a few pictures of the pump and the engine sticker. The sticker is in a really bad shape and I can’t read Japanese.

I saw a few photos of B engine stickers on the web but they have different values as far as injection timing is concerned. I don’t know which is which if ever I will show it to the guys who rebuilt the pump for their reference. I suspect the difference is because the B engine came with different types of pump. But I’m practically in the dark right now because I don’t even know it my pump originally came with this engine. The sticker on my engine doesn’t even look similar to the ones I found (Blue and Brown vs. Yellow on mine).

My best guesstimate is right now I’m at 3.5km to 4km to a liter of diesel, (odometer’s not even reliable, this is based on known distances that I travel).
Seems to me that the consumption is rather high (if at all my estimate is correct).

Btw, any Manila based 40 owners here, could you point me to a reputable diesel calibration shop just in case my current shop (Central Diesel) fails to properly set my pump to meet my expectations {realistic or not}.

Thanks in advance.

Ted

 

[Edward531]

Tom,

As for the bellhousing, it looks suspiciously like aluminum to me too. Thanks.

Ted

 

[Edward531]

Looks like a fun little rig, nice.

Thanks nolX4.

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Tom, here’s a few pictures of the pump and the engine sticker. The sticker is in a really bad shape and I can’t read Japanese.

I saw a few photos of B engine stickers on the web but they have different values as far as injection timing is concerned. I don’t know which is which if ever I will show it to the guys who rebuilt the pump for their reference. I suspect the difference is because the B engine came with different types of pump. But I’m practically in the dark right now because I don’t even know it my pump originally came with this engine. The sticker on my engine doesn’t even look similar to the ones I found (Blue and Brown vs. Yellow on mine).
My best guesstimate is right now I’m at 3.5km to 4km to a liter of diesel, (odometer’s not even reliable, this is based on known distances that I travel).
Seems to me that the consumption is rather high (if at all my estimate is correct).
Btw, any Manila based 40 owners here, could you point me to a reputable diesel calibration shop just in case my current shop (Central Diesel) fails to properly set my pump to meet my expectations {realistic or not}.
Thanks in advance.
Ted

Hi again Ted.

From what I can see, a 2977cc B-engine was fitted to BU60 BU70 and BU80 Dynas in the Japanese market from Sept 84 to Aug 87 with that alloy valve cover and with the rotary injection pump so I'm thinking it's probably come from one of these.

I was interested in the injection timing on your sticker but it appears that that portion is too damaged to read.

I'm almost certain yours will be 14 degrees BTDC though because you have to have an engine pre Aug 1980 to get a 10 degree version AFAIK. (I think emission regulations forced Toyota to advance the injection timing (and probably to alter valve timing simultaneously) at that point.

Fuel consumption certainly looks bad. You should get twice as many kilometres per litre!

It must surely be putting out black smoke at those figures?

 

[Edward531]

Funny thing is, no smoke at all. I even passed emission test last year. Black smoke usually only during start up in the morning but only momentarily. A little whit smoke during hard acceleration or down shifting on an incline but other than that I've seen newer hilux and fortuners with worse smoke. So many uncertain thongs in my cruiser I can't tell which is which. The consumption is based on a full tank less distance traveled after another full tank. Km ÷ liters added on the 2nd full tank. But I think is flawed since the auto shut off at the pump in most gas station may vary and may be affected by several factors. So I think it's a rough estimate at best. Thanks for the info Tom.

 

[lostmarbles]

Funny thing is, no smoke at all. I even passed emission test last year. Black smoke usually only during start up in the morning but only momentarily. A little whit smoke during hard acceleration or down shifting on an incline but other than that I've seen newer hilux and fortuners with worse smoke. So many uncertain thongs in my cruiser I can't tell which is which. The consumption is based on a full tank less distance traveled after another full tank. Km ÷ liters added on the 2nd full tank. But I think is flawed since the auto shut off at the pump in most gas station may vary and may be affected by several factors. So I think it's a rough estimate at best. Thanks for the info Tom.

I'm sure with the high population there you have a lot of start-stop driving too Ted.

There's probably no such thing as "open-road driving". At least not like here, Australia, USA, Canada, South Africa, etc

 

[Edward531]

I'm sure with the high population there you have a lot of start-stop driving too Ted.

There's probably no such thing as "open-road driving". At least not like here, Australia, USA, Canada, South Africa, etc

That's probably it then. Actually it's start-stop-wait--text-check ih8mud- then curse-then start again, so yes, it's that bad. I work 12km from home and it takes me one hour on a good day to get to work.

I was researching on the 14 degrees BTDC B engines and I came across your discussions sometime in 2011 post. Though I have yet to finish the thread, I was thinking I will use that info as basis and have my timing verified and if needed, readjusted to those specs, including the valve clearance etc.. I hope I don't open a can of worms when I do this. Thanks Tom.

Ted

 

[Edward531]

Hi all. Is there a way to adjust the injection pump timing to meet the 14 degrees BTDC as specified on the valve cover sticker without the use of a plunger stroke measuring tool (SST) as mentioned in pages EM22 and EM23 of the Toyota Engine Repair Manual 1988? How do I go about it? Thanks in advance.

 

[yotahed]

You need an injection timing/drip pipe. You can make one from an old injector line. The specs for it are in the manual. Pretty much undo the line at the #1 delivery valve at the pump, and hook up the line you made up. Turn the motor over a couple times at the crank pulley(slowly by hand) to find #1 TDC. Fuel will spray out the pipe. Watch your eyes and lay rags down. Wind it back to before the 14*btdc and slowly turn until fuel just barely starts to crest the top of the pipe. Then look at the crank mark in relation to the pin and adjust the pump body as nessesary.
See the pump section for more detailed info and info on the alternate "drip pipe" method.

 

[Edward531]

You need an injection timing/drip pipe. You can make one from an old injector line. The specs for it are in the manual. Pretty much undo the line at the #1 delivery valve at the pump, and hook up the line you made up. Turn the motor over a couple times at the crank pulley(slowly by hand) to find #1 TDC. Fuel will spray out the pipe. Watch your eyes and lay rags down. Wind it back to before the 14*btdc and slowly turn until fuel just barely starts to crest the top of the pipe. Then look at the crank mark in relation to the pin and adjust the pump body as nessesary.
See the pump section for more detailed info and info on the alternate "drip pipe" method.

Thanks Yotahed. I will consider this.

 

[lostmarbles]

Fuel will spray out the pipe. Watch your eyes and lay rags down. ....

I haven't performed this...

But I can't see how it would "spray" because I believe it would need to be passing through an injector (that has a nozzle and allows the pressure to first build up before it opens) in order to do that.

So I think instead the fuel would just gently "rise and overflow" in your timing standpipe (with the only danger being "making a small mess").

 

[Edward531]

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Central-Diesel-Philippines/128093907203254

Injection Timing Solved. Brought it back to Central Diesel with the 1988 Engine Repair Manual for the B engine, I explained what I wanted and the symptoms I experienced with the 40. They verified the timing and made a few adjustments. Turned out my valve clearance was out of spec also, so they adjusted it and it now runs very smoothly. Very accommodating.

They performed something like this to verify the timing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OI_iV4nlEq0

 

[lostmarbles]

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Central-Diesel-Philippines/128093907203254

Injection Timing Solved. Brought it back to Central Diesel with the 1988 Engine Repair Manual for the B engine, I explained what I wanted and the symptoms I experienced with the 40. They verified the timing and made a few adjustments. Turned out my valve clearance was out of spec also, so they adjusted it and it now runs very smoothly. Very accommodating.

They performed something like this to verify the timing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OI_iV4nlEq0

Good to hear Ted... Enjoy!

 

[Edward531]

Good to hear Ted... Enjoy!

Thanks Tom.

The technician noted that my air cleaner seems to be restricting the airflow more than it should. They tried revving the engine with and without the air cleaner connected, I myself never revved it that hard, I was cringing at the sound and dreading at the thought that it might blow up any second. But I was really surprised and impressed that it held its own. I noticed increased smoke at really high revvs (based on the sound since I don't have a tach) with the air cleaner on. So I was thinking, either replace the air cleaner with an original one for the B engine (mine I was told, not 100% sure though, was from a Mitsubishi Canter), or get an original Mitsubishi Air Cleaner element and see what happens. The one I have now is an aftermarket replacement filter for the canter that was purchased since it was readily available at that time.

Aesthetics and purity aside, I was thinking since the Canter is basically a truck and fitted with a 3.9L Diesel, doesn't that mean it should be enough for the B Engine? Just a thought before I make a purchase that can otherwise be used for other stuff for the 40.

Ted