ARCHIVE Wits' End Stud Tool Kit

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NLXTACY

Wits' End
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Dec 7, 2007
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Medford, OR
I've been debating even making this but I think there could be a need. I'm really on the fence on this thing. It all started because of this thread:
RTH: stuck in Primm, wheel lugs sheered off

All 6 wheel studs snapped while driving on the frwy coming home from Las Vegas at 60MPH. I was stuck with no way to get replace the broken studs so I had to be towed all the way back to Las Vegas. I bought a stud puller tool that utilizes a thrust washer but its useless on our trucks because the tool is slightly too wide. This got me thinking that I really didn't want to worry about whether or not the stud is being drawn through the hub correctly. On top of that, grinding on the edge of the lug kinda sucks too.

So I came up with something a little different. Now keep in mind, this IS NOT the preferred method of installing a wheel stud, thats what a press is for. But on the trail, or side of the highway, there is no press.

I 3D printed what I wanted and played around a little bit and kept refining it as time allowed. I made it to work with either the acorn or shank style of lug nuts. I then made one in steel and one in bearing bronze. The material is important because there is no thrust washer. So if its steel it needs a dab of grease on the contact surface. The bearing bronze is oil impregnated so no grease needed. Plus, its an emergency tool.

After testing I realized that it MUST have a brass drift with it to pound out the broken stud. This required a .50" radius cut out of the side and a means to hold the two pieces together so I added a small notch for a Vitron o-ring. I'm pretty happy with it after playing around with it myself but maybe I need more feedback. Its better than nothing but not better than using a press.

This is only for 40/60/70/80 trucks. 100 and 200s use larger studs so not setup for this. Thoughts/feedback?

Just the right amount of stupid or not stupid enough? :hhmm:

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Looks good. I was just kicking myself for not reaplcing all of mine while rebuilding the axle. This would've came in handy.
 
Cool, perhaps a mark on the tool to differentiate which hole is for Acorn & which for Shank lug nuts.
Also why two choices of metal, or was this just for testing purposes ?
or did I miss something ?
 
Cool, perhaps a mark on the tool to differentiate which hole is for Acorn & which for Shank lug nuts.
Also why two choices of metal, or was this just for testing purposes ?
or did I miss something ?

No need for marking. The block is machined so it’ll only work one way. There are two holes, one is counterbore for a shank and One is 30° countersunk for the acorn.

I just made one of each to experiment with.
 
Looks good. I was just kicking myself for not reaplcing all of mine while rebuilding the axle. This would've came in handy.

Well, to be honest THAT is the time to use a press. The reason is by doing it the way I’m showing could potentially stretch the bolt. I’ll need to measure before and after the next I have an opportunity to test, but this is more for when you don’t have a choice because you don’t have a press.
 
I guess I'm a bit curious what the purpose of this is?

I had my wheel/tire fall off in Pocatello, ID. Mercifully it was as I was getting off the freeway rather than on it. Anyway, I carry enough tools that I was able to replace them in the auto parts parking lot. I took the hub and bearing apart and was able to tap the new ones in. I stopped a few times after I drove a bit to make sure they were still tight but that was almost a year ago and I'm still good. Am I missing something or creating a situation for future failure?
 
That is a really sweet idea for a trail/road - side repair tool. When you produce it, I'll be in for one ....
 
@EvanD nope that’s fine, better even. But you don’t need to remove anything more than the wheel to replace the studs as a trail/highway fix.
 
s***. Now I'm just more confused. I had to use my wheel bearing socket (54mm?) and take the whole assembly apart to get the new ones in there. If there's an easier way I couldn't figure it.

So this piece is there to use to get them pressed in there and not worry about stopping to check tension? Either way, I'd be interested in one as well to add to my tool kit.

I just saw the link to the thread with your experience. I'll make my way through that.
 
s***. Now I'm just more confused. I had to use my wheel bearing socket (54mm?) and take the whole assembly apart to get the new ones in there. If there's an easier way I couldn't figure it.

So this piece is there to use to get them pressed in there and not worry about stopping to check tension? Either way, I'd be interested in one as well to add to my tool kit.

I just saw the link to the thread with your experience. I'll make my way through that.

Was it your front tire? Backing plate requires the hub/rotor to come off.
 
Yes. Front driver side. Oddly enough, it drove pretty decently on the rotor coming off the freeway turnoff...:)

Also, oddly enough, not my first time with this experience. Had it happen on my 4th gen 4runner as well.

Just about to reply to your other thread.
 
Nice compact addition to the tool box. The brass drift is a nice touch.:clap:

I'm in for one when you are ready.
 
the way I’m showing could potentially stretch the bolt.

If you ever use this in anger, tension the lug nut, tap the back of the new stud, retension lug nut, tap, repeat until stud is seated
This will limit the necessary tension applied to the stud.

A little percussion after applying some torque will shift things quicker than tension alone.
 
If you ever use this in anger, tension the lug nut, tap the back of the new stud, retension lug nut, tap, repeat until stud is seated
This will limit the necessary tension applied to the stud.

A little percussion after applying some torque will shift things quicker than tension alone.

Excellent point
 

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