Thanks Malleus, On passenger side (US) the o2 wire looks like it dives down over the fender. I haven’t spent too much time over the weekend checking it out. But, will the o2 electrical connector pull through or will I have to pull the wires out of the o2 connector so that I can pull it through? I’m pulling engine/tran/transfer/wiring harness all at the same time. Thanks so much. Sure does help to have guys like you giving advice.
View attachment 4032414
For all the connections on the transmission and transfer, I'd unplug them from their respective sensors and tape them up/over to the side, out of the way.
If you want to leave the engine connections in place, and unplug them after you pull the drivetrain, just unplug the ECM from behind the glovebox, pull the DLC1 connector off the firewall, unplug the AFM and unplug the two (2) connector housings over the starter. Unfortunately, if you choose this option, you have to fish the O2 pigtails out from under the fenders.
As old as the wiring harness is, and given the fact that unlike the 3rd gen harness, the 2nd gen harness ('93-'94) is NLA, I'd leave that alone until the drivetrain is out, and there's room to go fishing under there. I know it's more work to go around and unplug everything, but the risk of damage is lower, IMHO. Just my 2¢.
As I said above, just assume you have to replace all (6) injector connector housings. If you break just one, and you will, then all the others are just as brittle and you can assume you just got lucky with them. The part number is 90980-11153; these connector housings do not come with seals. Ballenger has them. The green ones (oil & high temp rated) are their number CONN-00119, the black ones (these are on my '94 and both of my '95s) are their part number CONN-00145 and the brown ones are their part number CONN-00146. These all fit wire gauge 20-16 and are genuine Sumitomo parts.
» The OEM harness from the factory had two colors (odd and even cylinder numbers), brown(–ish) and gray, but all the new ones are gray.
Oh, and be really careful with the round connector on the head. That one is unobtanium (it irritates me that the sensor is readily available everywhere, but its harness–side mate is not). If it's broken, you'll have to search salvage yards for a '90s vintage Toyota; they all used the same connector on the engine harness. You can get terminals (they are type 2.3II, I think, for all engine connector housings) and seals for them, though; Ballenger has them aplenty (search for Sumitomo TS/SL terminals). Other stores (here and abroad) carry them, but I am a fan of Ballenger's customer serivce, so I recommend them whenever I can.