Wiring Fog Lights Help!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Threads
212
Messages
1,159
Location
Whitefish, MT
Got the oem fj62 fog light switch, wired everything up but can't get the light on the switch to be on while the actual fog lights are on.

On each light I grounded 1 wire to the frame, the other wires I connected together under the hood and ran as one to the switch, and then a wire from the fuse box to the switch.

Help!!
 
Got the oem fj62 fog light switch, wired everything up but can't get the light on the switch to be on while the actual fog lights are on.

On each light I grounded 1 wire to the frame, the other wires I connected together under the hood and ran as one to the switch, and then a wire from the fuse box to the switch.

Help!!

try this.
lighted_switch_wiring.webp
 
your switch will have 2 hot posts. you might try switching to the other post on the switch. Double check the ground off the switch itself. And you need to run this all through a relay!!

also, unhook the lights when doing this. that way there is nothing to damage. Power is coming into the switch and should work the light inside the switch, no matter if the fog lights are connected or not.

but, not being a 62 owner, I am basing this off a standard switch. If the 62 switch is part of the wiring harness and goes through the computer, etc. what I have written above might not work.
 
Are you missing a ground wire at the rocker switch?
 
Here is the diagram for both the front fog light switch and the rear fog light switch. Only the rear has a light in the switch. You can see how to connect it. All those wires along the bottom are ground wires.

I would not tap into your fuse panel as a voltage source. It's a bad habit that leads to intermittent fuses. It will also put electrical stress on the fuse panel depending on the wattage of your fog lights. You will be happier in the long run using a relay from the battery.
foglights.webp
 
Last edited:
Whats the best way to wire a light switch (with relay) so that it only works when the ignition is turned to the "on" position? 100watt bulbs.
 
Assuming standard automobile relays, pin 30 of the relay goes to the battery + (be sure and fuse it right near the battery), pin 87 goes to your fog lights. Pin 85 goes to one side of your switch, the other side of your switch goes to something like the cigarette lighter wire, and pin 86 goes to ground. Wiring it this way, you can turn your fog lights on when the key is on, but when the key is off, the fog lights will be off regardless of the position of the fog light switch.

Here is a diagram I found on the Internet. Not one I made my self, but pretty good. Just don't shove a spade connector into your fuse panel. It spreads the fuse contacts leaving you prone to intermittent problems down the road. Better to tap into a wire such as the cigarette lighter for the Ignition ACC source.
foglite.webp
 
Last edited:
I have always wired a switch, to switch the hot wire. I think most common relays, 85 is a ground. 86 goes to switch , then out of switch to the power wire or hot source from the cig fuse or dome or acc. If the switch is illuminated, you will have to ground the switch to a bolt under the dash.

What slcfj62 describes is a ground switch. Either way works fine, you just gotta know which way you wiring

Make sure to use 10 gauge wire from the lightS to the relay and to the battery. From relay to switch you can 14 or 16 gauge.
 
10 AWG is good for as much as 40 amps. I do not see the resson to use lager than 14 AWG on the lights. As for the switch and relay, .5 amps or so is all the load the wire will feel. Toyota used relays on the OEM head lights look at the size wire on switch and lamps. It will not hurt to up size the wire, but it is a waist of money.
 
Whats the best way to wire a light switch (with relay) so that it only works when the ignition is turned to the "on" position? 100watt bulbs.

The ignition or acc. "hot" as described above in the above posts is a good option.

Another good option for off-road lights (not true fog lights) is to tie it to the highbeam headlights. For me, I only use the off-road lights in conjunction with the highbeams. And that way, it is easy to kill the highbeams and off-road lights together, if you encounter other vehicles on the trails or logging roads.
 
I wired all my extra lights direct to my second battery. I can turn everything on with no key in the ignition. If I'm setting up camp, or loading canoes, etc, I don't have to have the truck running to keep my power up. But, I also don't worry about the battery running low either since it isn't tied to whether or not the truck will start if I drain down the second battery.

if I only had one battery, I would have to reconsider the Ignition On ONLY route.

on the gauge size of the wire - I only suggested 10 gauge because you mention 100W lights. Thats alot of heat build up on a 14 gauge wire if that light is on for quite a while.
 
I had a cj5 with a snow plow, the lights [KC daylighters] had 100W lamps. 7 years running hours on end and I never had a problem.:idea:
 
Im all hooked up like slcfj60's diagram as far as I can tell. I checked for any shorts but still blow all fuses (up to 30amps) I put in the wire connecting the positive terminal to the bosch switch. Switch is old with some corrosion, could replacing the switch be the problem?
 
if your blowing fuses, then it isn't hooked up like the diagram. bosch switch or bosch relay, like in the diagram?

need LOTS more details to help with wiring issues
 
Back
Top Bottom