Wiper power and fuse box issues

[TCEd]

This is on a 1977 FJ40 that has a 1982 2f engine.
Attached are pictures of the front and rear of the fuse box. Every schematic I've looked at shows a Blue wire feed to the motor. This fuse box has no Blue wire attached anywhere. It does have Blue with Red at the subject use.
I can run the motor off a battery on the bench but not installed in the vehicle.
I tested continuity within the wiper switch and it is ok.
I tested continuity across all the fuses and terminals on the fuse box and it is ok.
The fuse box cover shown below is not on my vehicle but should represent the fuse layout I have unless I'm completely screwed up.

Any suggestions regarding what to do next ?

 

[swelltimes]

Some suggestions / questions:

Do you have the FSM (or even Haynes) manual for your truck?
When you say the "motor" runs when linked to a battery on the bench, do you mean wiper motor?

 

[TCEd]

Some suggestions / questions:

Do you have the FSM (or even Haynes) manual for your truck?
When you say the "motor" runs when linked to a battery on the bench, do you mean wiper motor?

The wiper motor runs when bench tested.
The FSM and Haynes both show a different fuse panel orientation and wire color then what's in my vehicle.

 

[swelltimes]

The wiper motor runs when bench tested.
The FSM and Haynes both show a different fuse panel orientation and wire color then what's in my vehicle.

I'm sorry, I just re-read my reply, and didn't mean to sound snarky when I said, "even Haynes."

Can you tell us a bit more about your truck and the newer engine in there?

You may need to just start tracing the wires to see what goes where, if the PO installed the newer engine and didn't use wiring to reflect the '77 FSM diagrams.

 

[TCEd]

It's a '77. The engine is a '82 2F.
The wiring under the dash looks original, shows no signs of being replaced. Everything seems to be in the correct place, nothing is jury rigged. Also this is a USA vehicle not a import. You can see the data plate in one of the photos.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

This is on a 1977 FJ40 that has a 1982 2f engine.
Attached are pictures of the front and rear of the fuse box. Every schematic I've looked at shows a Blue wire feed to the motor. This fuse box has no Blue wire attached anywhere. It does have Blue with Red at the subject use.
I can run the motor off a battery on the bench but not installed in the vehicle.
I tested continuity within the wiper switch and it is ok.
I tested continuity across all the fuses and terminals on the fuse box and it is ok.
The fuse box cover shown below is not on my vehicle but should represent the fuse layout I have unless I'm completely screwed up.

Any suggestions regarding what to do next ?
View attachment 1705819 View attachment 1705820
View attachment 1705821

U have original 40-50+ year only glass tube fuses , simply replace them all as Step#1

its a $5 easy no brainier to take this crucial step

the colored fuses u have are factory fuses

they can become detached inside where u cant see and cause problems , intermittent & heat buildup , melting your fuse box it self

if u have a marine boat store buy stainless steel ones from them , they dont detach and corrode

 

[Coolerman]

Welcome to the world of Toyota wiring. Where schematics have all kinds of little errors.

Yours is an easy case. The very bottom fuse is the wiper fuse. The BLUE wire with the red dots is the power feed for both the wiper motor and the washer motor. This is a wire that is hot only when the key is on. If the motor works on the bench but not on the truck then make sure the motor is grounded to the windshield AND the windshield is grounded to the body. Sometimes you have to run a separate ground strap from the body to the windshield frame in order to get a good ground. Also remember that the wiper switch GROUNDS the Blue/Black and Blue/Red motor leads causing it to run in Hi/Lo. Power does NOT run through the wiper switch! It goes straight to the motor on the blue wire. Again, remember that the windshield frame may not have a good ground; so when you measure for voltage, make sure to use a good BODY ground!

Matt is correct on the fuses! They can cause all kinds of grief! Don't forget to clean the fuse contacts before putting in new fuses.

Mark aka Coolerman

 

[TCEd]

Thanks for the clarification on the wire and ground suggestion. I did add a ground wire from the wiper motor to the windshield frame and will now add one from the windshield to the chassis. Fuses will be replaced also. I'll report back.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks for the clarification on the wire and ground suggestion. I did add a ground wire from the wiper motor to the windshield frame and will now add one from the windshield to the chassis. Fuses will be replaced also. I'll report back.

also , clean the contacts with a Brass brush as suggested by @Coolerman

 

[CHCP]

I'm not familiar with your 1977 fuse block. My 77 and 78 has fuse blocks that have a green and white female strip electrical plugs that attach to the back of the fuse block. You can use 1971-1980 fuse blocks. During last years overhaul on my 78 FJ40LV-KCJA I had to replace the dash and engine wire harness, so I used one from a 77 parts truck. The 77 does not have a high beam flasher on the turn signal lever so I had to rewire the harness to accommodate the 78 which does have a flasher. During the rewire I was getting really weird voltage readings, sometimes full battery voltage and other times half or less. I found the cause to be the fuse block buss bars were corroded and no way to fix them. I went through 3 fuse blocks before finding a good one. Also (if I can remember correctly...even though it was only a year ago!) I had some differences in my wiper motor to switch wiring, I had to re-pin the wiper motor electrical connector at the switch to include a chassis ground on I believe the lower middle pin to the switch. The 1st, 2nd and park color code ended up being different from the 77 and 78 FSMs.

 

[TCEd]

I'm not familiar with your 1977 fuse block. My 77 and 78 has fuse blocks that have a green and white female strip electrical plugs that attach to the back of the fuse block. You can use 1971-1980 fuse blocks. During last years overhaul on my 78 FJ40LV-KCJA I had to replace the dash and engine wire harness, so I used one from a 77 parts truck. The 77 does not have a high beam flasher on the turn signal lever so I had to rewire the harness to accommodate the 78 which does have a flasher. During the rewire I was getting really weird voltage readings, sometimes full battery voltage and other times half or less. I found the cause to be the fuse block buss bars were corroded and no way to fix them. I went through 3 fuse blocks before finding a good one. Also (if I can remember correctly...even though it was only a year ago!) I had some differences in my wiper motor to switch wiring, I had to re-pin the wiper motor electrical connector at the switch to include a chassis ground on I believe the lower middle pin to the switch. The 1st, 2nd and park color code ended up being different from the 77 and 78 FSMs.

This is beginning to remind me of working on old British cars with Lucas electrical systems.

 

[CHCP]

This is beginning to remind me of working on old British cars with Lucas electrical systems.

This is interesting because my friend Shane Sherman who owns Sherman Coachworks, fellow cruiser owner, did a bang-up body work and paint job on my cruiser. He also does restoration work on MGs and British cars. He has told me many, many times about the problems encountered with Lucas electrical systems. We all should be thankful we're running Toyota Land Cruisers!

 

[NE78FJ40]

I had this same issue with the wiper motor in my 78. I ran a ground wire from the wiper motor housing to the firewall. Problem solved.

 

[TCEd]

I had this same issue with the wiper motor in my 78. I ran a ground wire from the wiper motor housing to the firewall. Problem solved.

That's is what I'm also going to do. I had added a jumper from the motor back to the windshield frame but will reroute it to the chassis.

 

[TCEd]

This is interesting because my friend Shane Sherman who owns Sherman Coachworks, fellow cruiser owner, did a bang-up body work and paint job on my cruiser. He also does restoration work on MGs and British cars. He has told me many, many times about the problems encountered with Lucas electrical systems. We all should be thankful we're running Toyota Land Cruisers!

https://jalopnik.com/399791/joe-lucas-prince-of-darkness-british-electrical-system-jokes

 

[CHCP]

https://jalopnik.com/399791/joe-lucas-prince-of-darkness-british-electrical-system-jokes

"Gentlemen do not drive at night"

 

[12112321AKYLE]

Did you ever figure it out? I am having the same issue with my '76. The wiper motor is receiving power (measured at the bottom left pin/wire on the female connector, corresponding to the bottom right pin on the motor). I still need to see if it runs when isolated from the vehicle.

 

[TCEd]

Did you ever figure it out? I am having the same issue with my '76. The wiper motor is receiving power (measured at the bottom left pin/wire on the female connector, corresponding to the bottom right pin on the motor). I still need to see if it runs when isolated from the vehicle.

Yes, wiper motor and wipers now work fine in both speeds after dicking around for three years I ended up giving the motor to a mechanic I use who than sent it to a small electrical repair shop and they disassembled and rebuilt the motor.

 

[12112321AKYLE]

My issue was solved tonight. I tested my motor with a battery and it worked just fine in both speeds. I ended up choosing to wire it to an on and off switch, with one speed. I suppose I can wire a different switch in later that has an additional mode for low speed. All I needed to do was put power to the switch, then run a wire from the accessory pin on the switch to the power pin on the motor harness (solid blue). I then grounded the high speed pin (blue with red tracer). This allows the wipers to function on one speed and not park, I have to park them myself. Keep it simple haha.