Winch Disassembly

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by tlaporte, Nov 10, 2018 at 1:14 AM.

  1. tlaporte

    tlaporte SILVER Star

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    I'm taking apart my 8000 lb. Thomas PTO winch in order to clean and refurbish it, and I've encountered my first "how should I go about this?" question.

    IMG_1135.jpg

    I'm trying to sort out how to remove the drum bushing in the photos below.

    IMG_1133.jpg IMG_1134.jpg

    There is a threaded hole that can be seen easily in the first two pictures (into which a Zerk fitting was screwed), but I don't think that that would provide access to push the bushing out.

    I'm just not sure how to remove that bushing without destroying it. I'd appreciate anybody's input.
     
  2. 1911

    1911 chupacabra

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    Why do you want to remove the bushing, if you're not going to replace it?

    If you're going to replace it, then measure the inside diameter, cut a slot in it with a dremel, remove it, and measure the inside diameter of the race to get the outside diameter of the bushing.
     
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  3. tlaporte

    tlaporte SILVER Star

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    I’ll be honest, I want to media blast the dog clutch housing and I didn’t/don’t know if removing the bushing without destroying it was possible. I’m also not certain if I could purchase a replacement bushing (although I think I might be able to.
     
  4. Geezer Cruzzer

    Geezer Cruzzer

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    I would cut a round piece of metal the size of the bushing's lip, drill it and put a machine screw through it and thread it into the back of the zerk fitting hole. Then the bushing is sealed from the media.
     
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  5. Martyt

    Martyt SILVER Star

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    I like the look of your winch as it is but then again, I like patina:)
     
  6. 1969FJ

    1969FJ

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    Looks to me you need a puller. I believe there is some room at the base of that bushing. But, as I look closer, the bushing looks cracked ?

    bushing.PNG
     
  7. 65swb45

    65swb45 Elder Statesman Supporting Vendor

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    I hate to state the obvious Tom, but if anyone can remove that bushing intact, it’s Walt.
     
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  8. tlaporte

    tlaporte SILVER Star

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    That's an interesting thought that I had not considered: just protect the bushing during media blasting.

    I did watch some interesting YouTube videos that showed how to use bread stuffed into a housing in order to push a pilot bearing out. I don't know as there is enouch surface area on the bushing to make such a technique work here, though.

    I like the patina, too, but this is somewhat of a practice project. When Mark (@65swb45) first inspected the truck many years ago, he noted that there was something potentially off with the PTO gears and he suggested having it looked at before using it. Fast forward all of these years, and in order to accomplish that I'm putting into plan two other sage bits of advice Mark gave me: (1) when you are working on a running truck, aim to to keep the downtime to a minimum--two weeks, at most--so that it doesn't become an abandoned project and (2) to gain some confidence in working on these beasts, take something apart, clean it, and put it back together.

    I've followed #2 over the past year on some very small, mostly electrical or other non-mechanical things, and now the winch teardown is a slightly bigger project which also helps me keep true to #1. The winch is on the bench, and I have the blanking plate I need for when I take the PTO off of the truck, in order to keep the truck driveable while we deal with that.
     
  9. tlaporte

    tlaporte SILVER Star

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    I hadn't even noticed, but now that I look at the pictures, and then went out to the bench to look more closely at the bushing, I think you might be right.

    Haha. That's very likely the route I will take, Mark!

    My current hurdle is getting the drum off of the shaft.

    Once I removed the keys (W72 in the below diagram) from the shaft (W70),

    IMG_1153.jpg

    I was able to move the drum (W64) about one inch:

    IMG_1152.jpg

    And now about the only thing I've accomplished is wearing down the head of my plastic/rubber hammer. I confirmed that the grub screw on the drum (W93) is there to secure the cable to the drum and does not impede the drum's progress along the shaft.

    I have the following parts diagram that I've been using as a pseudo-repair manual, but I don't see anything that suggests there is something physical/mechanical that should be preventing me from moving the drum further down the shaft:

    ATS-winch-parts-diagram.png
     
  10. BreckenridgeCruiser

    BreckenridgeCruiser I break things. SILVER Star

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    I'd pull W93 all of the way out just in case... Also what are W72 and W71? In your first picture you see the slot, but nothing in it... Maybe that scree acting as a retainer or something?
     
  11. JohnBoy

    JohnBoy

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    As long as you're not using some crazy powerful sandblaster, quality duct tape will protect the bushing from media.

    I used to watch my friend cut out letters in duct tape. He'd tape what remained across the face of a nice rock. He'd sandblast the letters out and the duct tape would act as the stencil. He made a lot of garden rocks for people with their names etched on it. Like I said, use a quality duct tape and not a Dollar General brand.
     
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  12. 65swb45

    65swb45 Elder Statesman Supporting Vendor

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    Tom, I second @JohnBoy on just taping it off. I have done mask offs many of times.

    What makes the REAL difference is who is doing the blasting.

    I have been borrowing media blasters since I opened the shop (should finally have my own next year) so I am conscientious about not not overdoing it in sensitive areas.

    If you have to give the parts to others, that’s when the worry begins.
     
  13. JohnBoy

    JohnBoy

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    I actually have a small Speedblaster sand blasting gun and it is regularly used in my restoration project as well as general small blasting needs. I think they're under $50.00 or so. It holds about a quart of sand and it unbeatable for blasting out small rust spots and hard to reach areas in body panels. If I'm working on a panel that has a moderate rust spot, I use my blaster and eradicate the black rust area until I hit the parent metal. I'll treat the blasted area with Ospho rust treatment, wash and epoxy prime. When the epoxy dries, I'll fill any pits with body filler, block and prime. If it's too bad, I cut it out and replace as needed.

    This thing is great for small projects and paint removal. If your doing a project and need to restore a small part, I highly recommend it.

    https://www.amazon.com/SpeedBlaster...3M/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001418455553&psc=1
     
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