Why so much body roll?

[MTNRAT]

2mm is significant. Do the math on the Xsectional area of the bar. I would change shocks. Just cuz you got the softies in the first place does not mean that you should make another mistake. IMO. A more experienced shop most likely would not have let you order the soft shocks until after they tried to talk you out of them.
Cheers,
Sean

 

[turbodrive]

you need a stiffer shock. Period. also a strut bar or anti sway bars will help as well.

 

[wileetoyote]

A more experienced shop most likely would not have let you order the soft shocks until after they tried to talk you out of them.
Cheers,
Sean

Yeah, after I took it for that first test drive and nearly pissed my pants going around a corner, I wondered the same thing. When I placed the order, not a single question was asked about what I was looking for or recommendations but then again, I didn't ask. Now I'm wondering why they (OME) make/sell the softies in the first place. My guess is for the no lift springs. As a comparison, the stock shocks were extremely difficult to compress using my body weight against it and the floor whereas with the new ones, I could compress it simply by holding and squezzing it between both hands.

So its sounding like stiff shocks should do the trick or save the money and go mad getting used to it.

Thanks for all the feedback.

WET

 

[Grouseman]

not a direct comparison but with stock springs going from stock shocks to bilsteins really helped out a lot with the body roll, almost eliminating it, before even with just lane changes the ass end would sway back and forth, it felt bad,

I did the same thing, Put Billies on and the body roll went away. Go Billies...

 

[NorCalSam]

firmer shocks .

 

[NorCalSam]

and a set of 1" to 1.25" wheel spacers would change the feel a lot.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Spacers = different look, undetectable roll difference. Done the research, got the T shirt.

DougM

 

[Brian Macgyver]

I have the same lift, and I had some roll. It was in the front mostly. It seemed soft in the front. I added a pair of 1 1/4" spacers above the front stops (from Kevin; toolsrus) for another 1 1/4" front lift. It now corners flat like a sports car on windy mountain roads. Handles well in corners even when the inside front tire is screaming for mercy!
The factory designs a "rake" into the suspension to compensate for towing weight, placing the rear higher than the front. This places more weight onto the front axle. The effect is increased when the truck is lifted and the center of gravity is raised. This causes a feeling of roll when cornering. A bit of extra lift in the front transfers the weight more to the rear to balance handling. It makes a big difference!
Kevin has engineered a spacer that corrects the problem. They are made in 1", 1 1/4", and 1 1/2" thicknesses. Quantities are limited to production capabilities, and you may have to wait for a pair to be available.
I have a 3" lift without caster correction. Before the added front lift it was a bit light in the front. Body roll felt uncomfortable, and the handling was squirrelly. With the added lift, I left the beach at Ventura and drove up to over a mile of altitude in 26 road miles with perfect handling. That was a very curvy road with stunning views that kept my eyes off of the road most of the time. The truck handled impeccably! The spacer may be your cure.
PM Kevin at (toolsrus) to see when he may be able to get more made.

 

[ptmacp]

OME Swaybars

The PO of my 93 put a 40mm (~2.5") OME lift in, then freaked out about body roll and put in a OME front sway bar. He kept the stock one and it came with the rig. I'd say the OME is about 25% thicker and doesn't interfere with my factory locker. The sway is not weird at all. Might be worth looking into.

 

[Nay]

Lots of debate for somebody who already answered their own question: OME medium doesn't have any excessive roll IMO with the regular shocks and he doesn't like the feel of the soft shocks.

There's only one answer here.

 

[SUMOTOY]

One suggestion I'd have that is really cheap (sorry?), but works...

Start by replacing some of the stock swaybar bushings with eurethane. I have gone this route for years, with cars and trucks. For getting a better response without a stiffer feel, replace just the inner strap bushings. To get an effective higher bar rate, replace the straps and the end link rubber with eurethane.

I did this on my old 4 runner with great success, and on dozens of cars, race and street. Most times you can use an off the shelf strap (the kind with the zerk fitting is the best IMO), 27 and 25mm are standard parts for suspension techniques. The multilink bushings might be tougher, but a lot of 'merican iron can interchange (I used some sort of chebby app for my 4R).

Scott Justusson

 

[MTNRAT]

One suggestion I'd have that is really cheap (sorry?), but works...

Start by replacing some of the stock swaybar bushings with eurethane. I have gone this route for years, with cars and trucks. For getting a better response without a stiffer feel, replace just the inner strap bushings. To get an effective higher bar rate, replace the straps and the end link rubber with eurethane.

I did this on my old 4 runner with great success, and on dozens of cars, race and street. Most times you can use an off the shelf strap (the kind with the zerk fitting is the best IMO), 27 and 25mm are standard parts for suspension techniques. The multilink bushings might be tougher, but a lot of 'merican iron can interchange (I used some sort of chebby app for my 4R).

Scott Justusson

Where would someone get those for an 80?
Sean