Why not brass nuts?

[FJStan]

So after weeks of reading through MUD and getting to the point where I’m starting to feel comfortable with tearing down the manifolds in order to fix both an exhaust leak as well as an intake leak, I have this question:

Anything I should be considering when contemplating replacing every nut with brass replacements? Assuming I can remove everything that is.

Seems like the logical thing to do, if I’m considering keeping it long term and may need to do an overhaul at some point - so why not make it easier for the next round.

Thanks.

 

[OSS]

Use anti seize grease instead.

""When iron and steel are subject to conditions of aqueous corrosion the incidence and rate at which the corrosion takes place will alter if the steel is coupled with other metals or alloys that are also exposed to the electrolyte. Copper, brass, bronze, lead and nickel are more "noble" and act as auxiliary cathodes to the steel and accelerate its anodic dissolution, that is, its corrosion. Magnesium, zinc and zinc-base alloy are nearly always less noble and tend to divert the attack from the steel to themselves. The galvanic relationship of various metals is an important factor affecting corrosion"

 

[Saucerman]

I see your point about longevity but Anti-seize will make your life much easier. A little goes a long way too.

 

[Spike Strip]

And good luck finding JIS brass fittings.

High-Temp (high-Ni) anti-seize and never look back. Use on all exhaust fittings. Use new Toyota fasteners.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Strength (or lack of it) is why. Stainless hardware straight from China (via eBay) is the way to go. I can't believe it can be bought so cheap. Never Chinesium on critical components (brakes, suspension) but oil pan bolts hell yeah.

 

[FJStan]

Okay - all valid points...Thx. I’ll pickup a container of that stuff and order OEM hardware which appears to still be available. Save some money as well - I’m sure.

 

[Spike Strip]

Jim C has recommend a replacement for the bolt on the very ends of the exhaust horns. The one Toyota superseded to are a tad too long.

I can't find that thread at the moment where the part number is listed. I think it was in @beno build thread?

The Bostik is very good, but any high-Ni stuff (no copper) will do fine and any antiseize is better than none.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I bought Hi Temperature Copper Anti-Seize for the exhaust job I am doing. Rated to 1800°F should work. I didn't know they had hi temp nickel lubricant. That stuff looks fancy and $$$.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yeah, it ain't cheap, but I had smothered the CAT fasteners with the stuff and when I had to remove them after 8 years, they looked like new.

I've had the same small can for 10 years, so it isn't much of a sacrifice.