Why does my 22re engine rattle...sound like a diesel (2 Viewers)

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My 84 4runner with a 22R is also rattling at 166k. I think I am need of a new chain and guides. After it starts up it rattles a bit then goes away and happens again at mid range RPM's. The sound goes away at slighty higher Rpms. I think its the original chain I have put 20k since last year. I'm going to let it eat the guides. And I am expecting to have it snap and to be broke down, after wich i will be looking to buy a used 22r to swap. But if the chain wraps that would be really messed up and damadge A LOT MORE! But A 22R takes less than a weekend to swap. I should pull the valve cover and inspect like mentioned above. Thank for the reminder. If anyone has similar noises or stories about the actual chain failing please post it!!

Those are the sounds mine made. Next time you adjust your valves, you'll see it.
My truck's chain stretched, and jumped two teeth on the timing gear, and I limped her thirty miles to the shop on roughly 1.5 cylinders.

Personally, throwing away a whole motor because you're uninterested in doing a simple maintenance repair is the stupidest thing I've read in a while. It's about 1600 bucks for a shop to do a new chain and guides, plus a new head gasket, and valves adjusted. That's a pretty good deal that will leave you in the know as far as your engine's remaining lifespan; somebody else's motor is a black box, and it might be garbage.

The 22R had metal guides with a double-row chain when it came out in 1981. They switched to a single-row chain and plastic guides in mid-83.
I didn't know that. Thanks!
 
All I am saying is I don't plan on doing my own rebuild. For 1600 the shop better pull the motor and install it rebuilt top to bottom. I would pull the motor and take it to the "shop" to get the work done. That should only cost about 1200. A back up motor on side is a good thing. Its all D.D. so thats means no down time!
 
My 84 4runner with a 22R is also rattling at 166k. I think I am need of a new chain and guides. After it starts up it rattles a bit then goes away and happens again at mid range RPM's. The sound goes away at slighty higher Rpms. I think its the original chain I have put 20k since last year. I'm going to let it eat the guides. And I am expecting to have it snap and to be broke down, after wich i will be looking to buy a used 22r to swap. But if the chain wraps that would be really messed up and damadge A LOT MORE! But A 22R takes less than a weekend to swap. I should pull the valve cover and inspect like mentioned above. Thank for the reminder. If anyone has similar noises or stories about the actual chain failing please post it!!

The chain won't snap, that's why they use a chain
BTW, timing chain and guides is an easy job to do yourself. If you're just changing the guides you don't even have to take the head off.

The 22R had metal guides with a double-row chain when it came out in 1981. They switched to a single-row chain and plastic guides in mid-83.

Wasn't that the 20R?
 
The chain won't snap, that's why they use a chain
BTW, timing chain and guides is an easy job to do yourself. If you're just changing the guides you don't even have to take the head off.



Wasn't that the 20R?

22R was an optional motor in 1981.;)
 
I've heard that aftermarket metal "backed" chain guides are out there and that its usually the drivers side that goes out. Let it go too long and it can eat thru to a water jacket that's right there.
 
RiverRatMatt said:
The chain won't snap, that's why they use a chain

Sorry bud but Chains will snap, although rare it has happened on 22RE engines, NOTHING is fail proof, everything has a braking point. I am a fan of metal guides, they last longer, worth installing them.

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spookyant said:
I've heard that aftermarket metal "backed" chain guides are out there and that its usually the drivers side that goes out. Let it go too long and it can eat thru to a water jacket that's right there.

Yes if the guide brakes then the chain will most likely start to rub on the timing cover, let it go too long and it will eat into the water pump passageways. Metal guide were used on the early 22R engines(????) I know my 86 had plastic guides, when I rebuilt the engine is used metal guides, pretty sure the metal guid is on the passenger side.

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Sorry bud but Chains will snap, although rare it has happened on 22RE engines, NOTHING is fail proof, everything has a braking point. I am a fan of metal guides, they last longer, worth installing them.

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x2

Mine started rattling right after I bought the truck back in '07. Took me forever to get it changed. I didn't really know what I was doing and I didn't have the right tools to break the ballancer free. Finally swapped in a cheap chain from Autozone....about 3 weeks later, I started the engine and it just died immediately. Then it just cranked really fast with no spark. Guess what...new chain laying done at the bottom mixed in with piece of a chipped up oil pump.

Ended up grabbing another motor and dropping it in. I was sure that the valves and/or pistons were fubar. Split the block and the head and saw no damage. I guess you could call that luck, although the engine never got put back together.
 
These engines are not hard to work on, DIY with the FSM. Keep the oil clean and full as well as cooling side and it will last a long time, with little maintenance. Big key is to not go cheap on the rebuild parts and machine work.

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... a cheap chain from Autozone....about 3 weeks later, I started the engine and it just died immediately.

Think I found your problem, there, eh.
I don't know why Autozone charges the prices they do for the crap the peddle.

Sorry Crazy.
 
I agree. Lesson learned.
 
These engines are not hard to work on, DIY with the FSM. Keep the oil clean and full as well as cooling side and it will last a long time, with little maintenance. Big key is to not go cheap on the rebuild parts and machine work.
FSM? =Flying Spaghetti Monster?:confused:
 
These engines are not hard to work on, DIY with the FSM. Keep the oil clean and full as well as cooling side and it will last a long time, with little maintenance. Big key is to not go cheap on the rebuild parts and machine work.
FSM? =Flying Spaghetti Monster?:confused:

Factory Service Manual.
 
My 22r sounds like a diesel for the first couple of seconds on a really cold start. I think it's the time it takes for the oil pressure to get to the chain tensioner.
 
This can come from running an oil filter with a bad check valve, requiring your oil pressure to build before it takes slack out of the tensioner.
 
Just be done with the chain problem and buy a kit from here. I have installed many of these and never a problem.
Engine Builder rules! :D
 
next time you start the truck, watch the oil gauge, if there is any delay in the pressure climbing you might need to worry. The oil pump supplies the tension for your timing chain, if the pump starts to weaken or not provide enough psi you could spit the chain in a heartbeat. my 22r did this and turned my chain into little tiny bits. Somehow i didnt harm the vavles( i redid them anyhow since i had the head off.) maybe cause it was at an idle?
 
with the valve cover off you can use a flashlight to check the condition of the chain guides and see if the chain is rubbing the timing cover. i have noticed the earlier 22re motors are quieter than the later ones. the later motors used different injectors and they are loud. just FYI. the 87 4runner this post is about fits into the early motor category and should not be ticking so loud.
 

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