Which Winch?

[helocat]

A> hydraulics are useless when your vehicle isn't running...a frequent issue when you are THAT deep in the mudhole and have to get free...or upside down, or verticle, or other occasions where running the motor is impossible....I have used mine more than once when no one else could get to me. Hydraulics ARE, however, awesome pullers and IMO the winch of choice if you are notoriously pulling all your "too cheap to buy a winch" buddies around all the time. (OK, most of this is a non-issue for an 80....)

I have seen photos of some Ausi double failsafe set ups with the hydraulic winches. They have a fork lift 12v pump and reservoir set up where they can switch hydraulic sources from the engine driven pump OR the 12v pump. Complicated but cool.

I like light weight and simplicity, electric has been my choice.

B> I've used my current 8274 many many many times,

Wait? Winch? I thought you just pushed your truck back over each time you or C roll it!?

Mark

 

[flintknapper]

winch brand discussions seem to crop up frequently, a couple brand name searches may find you results.

50% of a quality winch is in the install itself...quality cables, connectors, etc. A $1000 winch is useless on 6-gauge battery cables.

I've owned only Warn's....zero complaints. I've been winched out by Warn's, Ramsey's, SuperWinch's, and MileMarker's (and likely some others too)......some of the pathetic performance of these winches was the blame of the owner (maintenance) but none have ever impresssed me like a Warn for line speed and reliability.

Ditto....

Proper installation should be "Job 1" regardless of which unit you choose.

Big cables (Hot and Ground), good connections, and enough battery are all essential elements for electric units.

Take the time to compare performance specs. (line pull per layer), this will be a real eye opener for you.

I use a Warn 8274 and it served me well for nearly 20 years. Even on the fifth layer it will pull 6,300 lbs. (with enough battery).

I would prefer to have a 12,000 lb. on a Cruiser but check the specs. before purchasing anything.

 

[Gauge]

I am at a complete loss of understanding on winch ratings. The Cruiser packed (complete with cargo) weighs about 6,000 pounds. If a winch has a pull rating of 8,000 lbs, then it should be able to pull the cruiser straight up into the air (and an additional ton on top of that). Why would you need a 12,000 lb pull winch on a 6,000 lb vehicle?

Also, it takes significantly less power to pull a vehicle parallel to gravity than perpendicular to it, and if I were to get stuck, I would only have to pull my vehicle parallel to gravity (perhaps a slight incline).

I would think it shouldn't take more that 3,000 lbs of pull to drag the cruiser on a dirt road with all 4 tires locked. How much pull would be needed to pull the cruiser out of mud?

Again, sorry if my question is basic, but I just don't understand. Shouldn't the winch be rated at the maximum weight of the vehicle?

 

[Darwood]

If a winch has a pull rating of 8,000 lbs, then it should be able to pull the cruiser straight up into the air (and an additional ton on top of that).

I'm suddenly reminded of "The Gods Must Be Crazy".

 

[Gauge]

I'm suddenly reminded of "The Gods Must Be Crazy".

Geez......I'm talking theorotically. I am NOT going to tie the winch to a tree limb to see if I can pull the cruiser off the ground.

 

[e9999]

the pull needed if the truck is stuck is obviously not a function of its weight only.
Consider the situation where the struck is stuck in wet concrete that would then harden. Can you see that the pull needed might well be more than the weight of the truck now?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I just mounted the ARB Bull Bar on my Cruiser, and it looks fantastic. (Pics will be forthcoming). However, it really bothers me that I have that big cutout where the winch is suppossed to go and nothing in there (yet).

Without a winch, that bar creates a huge money sucking sound that will reverb in your head until you buy a winch. It's weird, but no one else will hear it but you. So my advice is to go and buy a Warn M12000 and install. It fits in really well with minimal work, and is all the winch you need.

 

[Gauge]

the pull needed if the truck is stuck is obviously not a function of its weight only.
Consider the situation where the struck is stuck in wet concrete that would then harden. Can you see that the pull needed might well be more than the weight of the truck now?

Well.....(and I am laughing as I write this), I don't know what the rest of you do with your Cruisers, but I wasn't actually planning on driving my Cruiser in wet cement and then hanging around to wait for it to dry.

For that matter, I don't think there is winch on the market that would be strong enough.

 

[Ian Rogers]

i would go 1.5 x the GVW

 

[e9999]

Well.....(and I am laughing as I write this), I don't know what the rest of you do with your Cruisers, but I wasn't actually planning on driving my Cruiser in wet cement and then hanging around to wait for it to dry.

For that matter, I don't think there is winch on the market that would be strong enough.

you never tried the clay in my backyard obviously....

and right, that was the point

 

[helocat]

I am at a complete loss of understanding on winch ratings. The Cruiser packed (complete with cargo) weighs about 6,000 pounds. If a winch has a pull rating of 8,000 lbs, then it should be able to pull the cruiser straight up into the air (and an additional ton on top of that). Why would you need a 12,000 lb pull winch on a 6,000 lb vehicle?

Also, it takes significantly less power to pull a vehicle parallel to gravity than perpendicular to it, and if I were to get stuck, I would only have to pull my vehicle parallel to gravity (perhaps a slight incline).

I would think it shouldn't take more that 3,000 lbs of pull to drag the cruiser on a dirt road with all 4 tires locked. How much pull would be needed to pull the cruiser out of mud?

Again, sorry if my question is basic, but I just don't understand. Shouldn't the winch be rated at the maximum weight of the vehicle?

First off most winch ratings are for the first wrap of wire on the drum. In other words you need to spool out almost the whole drum of rope just to get the full Mfgr. rating. For example looking at the Warn M8000 when you have 5 wraps of rope on the drum it drops to a rating of a little over 6200 lbs. Not to practical in all situations. The M12000 yet the 5th wrap of rope is still around 9k of pulling power. This is normally listed with each winch in the specs.

I have successfully pulled a high centered 80 off rocks w/ my 9.5ti rated at 9500lbs. I did use a snatch block due to the pull required. Most professional recommendations are look for a winch with double the pulling power of the weight of the vehicle it is pulling. Also winching out of situations are unpredictable and not always a 3’ deep mud hole in a flat area with a tree directly ahead to toss a tree saver around. Bind up your steering in some rocks with the back end of the tuck starting to lift off the ground due to the hole that just swallowed you right front tire…..the biggest winch starts looking mighty worth it! At the same time not every off road need is the big pull so a smaller winch may be the tix.

Mark

 

[Kalawang]

I use a 9,000 lbs warn winch. I bought it because for the price, it was the biggest I could get. Apparently you have to use the winch regularly to maintain it. Controls get sloppy, ie, sometimes don't work, if you don't. Every couple of weeks I have to go to a nearby hill and pull my LC up with the winch. It isn't a very steep hill, but it's convenient. I drive down. My neighbors think I'm crazy for doing this and I receive a lot of flack. They drive by my house and point at it. They also point at my LC. I've never been stuck yet, even off road, so I've never used my winch in conditions where I truly need it.

Think about it.


Kalawang