Which CV Axle Boot To Pair With OME 2" lift?

Which boot option is preferred?

  • Option 2 (Inner Boot Silicone)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Option 2a (Both Boots Silicone)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    4

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Joined
Mar 26, 2015
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13
The friendly local Toyota dealership says the passenger CV axle needs replaced. So, I'm looking to order one from CVJ, maybe two just to knock them both out at the same time. My 99 UZJ100 has 164k miles, and OME light/stock shocks in front, OME medium in rear with fit kit installed. No diff drop.

1. Should I do both axles at the same time, or is there no need for this?
2. Given that I have a front stock/light OME shocks & medium springs/shocks rear which CV boot choice would be preferred:

Standard - These axles have aftermarket neoprene boots. They are fully assembled and are ready to install.
Option 1 - Outer Boot - OEM boot for CV joint (wheel side) This boot gets your axles closest to OEM - longest lasting CV boot. This is an Original OEM Toyota plastic boot & clamps installed on the above axle we build for you. This boot is the longest lasting because it is made of Hytrel plastic which is tougher, more abrasion resistant and more chemical resistant than the aftermarket Neoprene boots. Being hard plastic it does not seal as well as Neoprene, which can be an issue at high angles. (Usually good up to 2 1/2" lift). There is no warranty on these boots.

Every lift kit is different, each individual uses their truck differently, etc. So, while it is is hard to make specific recommendations here is another boot options that many Toyota truck owners have found valuable:

Option 2- Inner Boot Higher Angle (diff side) - $42.95 each . We also offer a red silicone boots for the Inner joints. These are $42.95 each installed on axles we build for you. (It takes two days)
Many offroaders prefer these for higher angles saying they last longer.
Each lift kit is different. These can help if your inner boots are rubbing on themselves or have longer travel. With the red boot there are a lot more convolutions (ribs) so they can be stretched out so they don't rub or don't rub as much. Also the silicone handles abrasion better than neoprene.
These won't be much help with severe angles.
{We have heard of a couple reports of suspension combinations that do not provide adequate clearance for this boot}. As a rule of thumb you will need an extra inch of clearance from the existing boot (radially & along the shaft). Please check the clearance before ordering.
There is no warranty on these boots.

Option 2a - Some offroaders use the red silicone boots (above) on the outer CV joints (wheel side).

Thanks,

Honor
 
Others may have more experience with CVJ's different boot options but I have really good luck with self installed OEM Toyota boots and the smooth norma screw type hose clamps from McMaster Carr. Currently have about 50k-miles on the last set I re-booted and most of the time it has been run lifted without a diff drop, currently lifted with a diff drop.
 
Others may have more experience with CVJ's different boot options but I have really good luck with self installed OEM Toyota boots and the smooth norma screw type hose clamps from McMaster Carr. Currently have about 50k-miles on the last set I re-booted and most of the time it has been run lifted without a diff drop, currently lifted with a diff drop.
Thanks for the reply with your experience. I also plan to use the McMaster Carr CV clamps. Ordered from pfranleds. Think it wise to do both at the same time, or just one side if that's all that's needing replacement at the moment.
 
I'd do both at the same time, make one big mess. If you just do one you'll avoid the other because of the mess and clean-up :)

It's a psych problem - truck doesn't' care either way.. I'd do both so you get both of the inner spindle needle bearings greased up at the same time.
 
When I was researching CVJ as an option for rebuilt axles I called them and asked about the different boot options. I also asked if the silcone option was as good as OEM. They told me the OEM Toyota were the most durable matrerial composition, that there is nothing available in the aftermarket to compare to them.

I would use OEM only. 2”-2.5” lift on new boots will be fine. Install a diff drop- and they’ll be even better.

Personnally I dont like the mcmaster car worm gear clamps-(rounded edge euro type). The OEM crimp type that come with the boot kits are superior (if you get them clamped to FSM spec). Granted worm clamps make for an easy reclamp job with out removing the axle and good for an intermediate trailside repair but they are not the correct width and they are easily overtightened, which usually results in a torn boot or misaligned clamp.
 
When I was researching CVJ as an option for rebuilt axles I called them and asked about the different boot options. I also asked if the silcone option was as good as OEM. They told me the OEM Toyota were the most durable matrerial composition, that there is nothing available in the aftermarket to compare to them.

I would use OEM only. 2”-2.5” lift on new boots will be fine. Install a diff drop- and they’ll be even better.

Personnally I dont like the mcmaster car worm gear clamps-(rounded edge euro type). The OEM crimp type that come with the boot kits are superior (if you get them clamped to FSM spec). Granted worm clamps make for an easy reclamp job with out removing the axle and good for an intermediate trailside repair but they are not the correct width and they are easily overtightened, which usually results in a torn boot or misaligned clamp.

Thanks for your perspective on this. Since I ordered the McMaster-Carr ones I'll decide whether to install them or just keep them around for a trailside repair as you say.

I ordered a single CV axle with the OEM boot. Being on the East Coast they take a week to deliver (Place Order & Pay on Tuesday - Receive Tuesday the following week). I was able to pre-pay the return shipping for the core through UPS with them. May have been cheaper to just take a box to USPS, but I didn't want to bother. Return shipping should be a little cheaper than arrival shipping because it's RESIDENTIAL to BUSINESS rather than the other way around when arriving to me.
 
Honor-

Curious to know the total cost of the CVJ axle shipped, including your return shipping of the core? Id like to compare that against a new OEM axle $355 + $20 shipping ($375 otd)
 
abuck,

It was $347 with OEM boot, including shipping, before the $95 core refund, so $252 after all is said and done. I'll let you know on Tuesday if the return label was included in the package as requested.
 
...

Personnally I dont like the mcmaster car worm gear clamps-(rounded edge euro type). The OEM crimp type that come with the boot kits are superior (if you get them clamped to FSM spec). Granted worm clamps make for an easy reclamp job with out removing the axle and good for an intermediate trailside repair but they are not the correct width and they are easily overtightened, which usually results in a torn boot or misaligned clamp.

I have used Toyota reboot kit, aftermarket CV clamps, bought the special tools for clamps, etc. All have failed in the field during hard wheeling.
The McMaster-Carr clamps are the only thing that lasts for my offroading.
 
Old boot was cut near the clamp. New axle from CVJ looks nice. We re-clamped with the McMaster-Carr clamps ordered from PFRAN.
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The old boot had slung grease everywhere
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New axle going back in
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I have a question. How do I know whether I need a re-boot vs a rebuild? Trying to avoid a shop upselling me
 
I have a question. How do I know whether I need a re-boot vs a rebuild? Trying to avoid a shop upselling me
If it's clicking and making noises on turns then get a new axle/rebuilt, if it's just a torn boot making a mess in your fender well, then go the reboot route, it will be approximately 75% cheaper to reboot if you can.
 
If it's clicking and making noises on turns then get a new axle/rebuilt, if it's just a torn boot making a mess in your fender well, then go the reboot route, it will be approximately 75% cheaper to reboot if you can.
Thank you, yea It’s just leaking/making a mess
 
I have a question. How do I know whether I need a re-boot vs a rebuild? Trying to avoid a shop upselling me
You should also check for play in the splines with the hub. If you jack it up and can move the wheel at all without the shaft moving then the hub and shaft are likely worn. This is best seen with the grease cap off.

You might fix this with a new hub if it’s minor, otherwise you may need to rebuild the shaft with a new outer tulip.
 
You should also check for play in the splines with the hub. If you jack it up and can move the wheel at all without the shaft moving then the hub and shaft are likely worn. This is best seen with the grease cap off.

You might fix this with a new hub if it’s minor, otherwise you may need to rebuild the shaft with a new outer tulip.
Totally agree, hubs should def be inspected when replacing a cv or rebooting a cv axle.
 

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