Wheel studs FJ60 question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Threads
71
Messages
865
Location
Tucson, AZ
Need an opinion from those with stock FJ60's or wrenching experience with same. Was driving to lunch and started hearing an unholy thumping noise from the rear end. Looks like the wheel spacer I used to put 80 series rims on my 60 loosened up (apparently red locktite isn't enough) and I've sheared all but 2 of the lug studs. Right next to each other, even better.

Since I don't want to remove the axle if at all possible, has anyone successfully pounded the broken stubs back, and then fit replacements with the axle and hub in place? I've read on the 60 board that this is considered possible, but everyone was much more thrilled with the remove the axle idea and going to a shop with a press. Looking at this weekend to do this in a front driveway (please, stop RAINING) so that should also be considered in the "Is this possible or recommended" balance.

Glenn
 
At least it happened to you when you were going slow.

You can pull the threads through with a lug nut and some sort of plate to pull against, but I don't think it is recommended as some say you can stretch the stud. Better to pull it all apart and do it right.
 
Not familiar with the 60, but the 80 was a an easy job with the hub removed. Pounded them out with a hammer and pounded in the new ones. Removing the hub was easy as well.
 
I had a broken stud on the rear of my 92 and I was able to pound it out right on the truck without removing the hub. There was just enough room to angle the new stud in. Not sure about the 60 though.
 
... (apparently red locktite isn't enough) ...

I would never use Loctite on wheel studs. Because there is no way of confirming torque/clamping force, wheels will not loosen unless there is a deficiency and Loctite wont help that.

Wheels loosening is from installation error, ether previous or this install. The two most common are: Wheel mounting surfaces not clean and flat. Studs not properly torqued, most often over torqued, this ruins the studs and they can go several wheel remove/replace cycles before giving up.
 
Ongoing Misery

Took advice and pulled the axle half-shaft today. That was a miserable experience like few others I have had. Finally got the axle yanked, and still cannot get the broken studs out, even with liberal amounts of rust free and percussive maint.

Will be going on vacation this next week, so think I'll futz with it later, but for now I'm covered in gear oil, missing skin, and discovered that the FSM is missing some pretty obvious instructions as compared to the Haynes that I read too late. Will take the axle to the shop to see if they can be pressed out, or if I should look for a good condition used.

Bonus - found out that my 4wd front works just fine in 4hi, since I currently have significant parts of the rear diff in a tub of gear oil - guess I have a front wheel drive LC.

Cheers for now,

Glenn
 
Back
Top Bottom