Wheel stuck on rotor after lugs removed? (1 Viewer)

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Proven

RTFM, STEP 6, POST
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
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I’ve never dealt with this. I was going to rotate the tires to buy myself time before I have to replace.

I couldn’t get the wheel off after I got the lug nuts off. Driver rear was stuck but my “peoples elbow” managed to bust that one free.

Then the driver front was not going to give up and my jack stands were sounding like they were slipping.

I ended up putting it back together. I guess I’ll end up getting tires and letting them fight it.

Has anyone else experienced this?Is there something I should put on the rotors to prevent it?
 
Put your jack under the a-arm and kick the living (!) out of the tire. Don't try sledge hammers etc. 'cause they rebound off the tire and you might get hurt, or break a wheel.

If all else fails, install the lug nuts then loosen them 1-2 turns. Turn the wheels all the way to the outside (so you can still get your jack under the a-arm) then lunge the truck forward.

Good luck :)
 
I’ve never dealt with this. I was going to rotate the tires to buy myself time before I have to replace.

I couldn’t get the wheel off after I got the lug nuts off. Driver rear was stuck but my “peoples elbow” managed to bust that one free.

Then the driver front was not going to give up and my jack stands were sounding like they were slipping.

I ended up putting it back together. I guess I’ll end up getting tires and letting them fight it.

Has anyone else experienced this?Is there something I should put on the rotors to prevent it?
Spray some brake free in around your lugs, rotate the tire and spray some more. Let sit then kick the tire.
 
I pulled the rip cord after I tried the "Deep Creep" penetrate and "Kicking the s*** out of it" methods I read online. I moved up the "New tire" process and will have 4 new shoes put on the vehicle.

I will likely pull each wheel after they do and dress the rotor with something to keep it from happening in the future.
 
I pulled the rip cord after I tried the "Deep Creep" penetrate and "Kicking the s*** out of it" methods I read online. I moved up the "New tire" process and will have 4 new shoes put on the vehicle.

I will likely pull each wheel after they do and dress the rotor with something to keep it from happening in the future.
you can clean rotor / wheel lug area mounting surfaces- and apply a light coat of anti seize on wheel
 
you can clean rotor / wheel lug area mounting surfaces- and apply a light coat of anti seize on wheel

That sounds good, that won't melt and flow outward? I guess I have never looked at the temperature properties. I was thinking of using caliper grease (high temp).
 
My old Blazers did that. Salt from plowing did not help the situation. Hitting the wheel on the outside edge works. The shock gets transferred right to the rotor. One good smack and they fall off.

If you have good wheels you can try a piece of cardboard between the hammer and wheel.
 
That sounds good, that won't melt and flow outward? I guess I have never looked at the temperature properties. I was thinking of using caliper grease (high temp).
I'd use anti-sieze (not grease) only on the inside of the hub bore. Be sparing so it doesn't end up everywhere. Beware the anti-sieze won't last forever, and this is a common issue with hub-centric wheels.
 
Got the new tires on and all is good. Just gotta do the anti-seize now.
 

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