Wheel Spacers Tested

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Oct 22, 2007
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Location
South Florida
I was a bit lazy yesterday so today I wanted to share some more info on the differences I observed using 3 different sets of wheel spacers on my Medium Slee lifted 100 with Michelin LTX AT2 tires in 285/70R17 mounted on Tundra Rock Warrior wheels.

The whole idea for the spacers came up because I wanted to run the Tundra Rock Warrior Wheels. In case you don't know, the wheels will fit just fine on the rear axle but on the front these wheels will not clear the Land Cruiser's massive protruding hubs. :crybaby:

I started with a set of 10mm slip on spacers. These allowed me to clear the front hub AND they leave a little lip on the hub for the wheels to still be mounted "hub-centric". The concern with the 10mm slip ons is that the stud now has 10mm less thread to use. This would actually be fine (I think) if you are running standard Land Cruiser or Tundra wheels where the lower end of the nut is countersunk inside the wheel. However, for the Rock Warrior wheels the nuts are acorn shaped and not countersunk so you have a very short stud which I did not like. Further, although the RW wheel can be mounted on the front, you still don't have enough clearance for the center cap so you either need to run without a cap or come up with something else. These were out and are now for sale in the classifieds.

My second set of spacers were the 1.5" Just Differential spacers. These are crafted beautifully and will let you mount the RW wheels on the front hubs and still fit the center cap. With the medium lift and 1.5" spacers, RW wheels and 285-70R17 AT tires, your tires will occasionally hit the upper fender liner on full compression. For other lift / tire / wheel combos, the 1.5" spacers might be perfect but they were just a tad too wide for me. The tires were outside the wheel wells by a tiny bit. Again, these are now for sale.

The final set I am currently using are 1.25" BORA spacers from Motorsport Tech. They are pretty well made but not as nice as the JD spacers. The issue I have is mainly with how the studs are pressed into the spacers - not all that clean where the JDs are perfect. Since the BORAs are 1.25" hub centric, they have a small lip that simulates the hub and allows you to mount the wheel. Problem is that the 1.25" spacer with this lip will not clear the 6 nuts on the outside of the hub. I think the 1.5" version will. I really wanted these to work so I notched the lip in the 6 areas where the nuts were interfering. It took a little elbow grease as none of my power tools were the correct shape / angle / design. Once that was done I was able to mount everything up including center caps. I think these spacers are just about perfect for my application.

Let me know if you need more info on anything.
 
I've avoided spacers (even though I've had 315/75/16's on for over 3 years) but my research always gave me the impression that I wouldn't run anything over 1" spacers if I did. I've seen far too many people on here run spacers and take them off or end up downsizing to smaller spacers (or eliminate them)... I don't even know why some websites recommend the larger spacers for 100 Series vehicles... For those that are highway only drivers and never trail ride the bigger spacers would probably work okay on the streets... I don't have much room to spare stuffing the wide tires up in my fender wells...
 
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Hello Mtnracer,

I am running Just differentials 1 inch spacers for my Rockwarrior wheels and caps. I agree with you on the outstanding quality. I have not had any rubbing and they are smooth as butter. I originally ran 1 &1/4 in spacers from JD but did a little measuring and determined that 1 inch was enough to clear the caps. Off to the classifieds they went. I would be concerned using anything that was less than excellent quality on something as important as spacers. One can only imagine the horror of a spacer failing with me and the family on the road.

TLC Dan
 
Is there a huge reason to go to the 1" vs the 1-1/4"? The 1" sounds like it requires grinding of the studs to keep them below the spacer face. Not so with the 1-1/4". I'd rather have the option of going back to stock with full stud length. It's only 1/4" more of a leverage arm...
 
OregonLC

No grinding whatsoever on JT's 1 inch spacers. They fit perfect w/o any changes to the studs....

TLC Dan
 
OregonLC

No grinding whatsoever on JT's 1 inch spacers. They fit perfect w/o any changes to the studs....

TLC Dan

Thanks. There website says "may need grinding", hence the question.
 
OregonLC,

Come to think of it, i think the RW wheels have indentations on the inside of the wheel where the studs can go. If the mounting surface of a wheel was flat their might be some grinding required........

I prefer to have the spacers as thin as possible while still using the TRD cap for the wheel.

TLC Dan
 
OregonLC,

Come to think of it, i think the RW wheels have indentations on the inside of the wheel where the studs can go. If the mounting surface of a wheel was flat their might be some grinding required........

I prefer to have the spacers as thin as possible while still using the TRD cap for the wheel.

TLC Dan

Thanks. I'll have to check my tundra rims, I think they're flush. Back to my original comment, the 1-1/4" seems like the safe choice. I don't need it for clearance, although I would like some more distance to my Radflo reservoirs up front. Other than that I just want it to not look like a rail car.
 
Just to follow up on this thread, I recently upgraded to Radflo 2.5 Remote and TotalChaos UCA's. My 295/70R180's on Tundra rims created a rubbing problem on both the shock reservoirs and, on the DS, the UCA. The latter, I'm sure, is an alignment issue.

After reading this (and every other wheel spacer thread) I decided to go with Carl's (Just Differentials) in a 1". Could have saved ~$150 by going with the Bora spacers, but to me this wasn't a part I was willing to have anything but the best on. Not that I've ever heard of one breaking on a 100, but... if it did...

The install is super easy and the fit up against the hub is flawless. I torqued the spacer nuts to the same 96.5 lb-ft as the wheel lugs. Mounting the wheels does take a little more effort as they are now lug-centric, but it's not really a problem. Just pull the wheel out toward the studs to center once you get at least three of them started. Drive them in with the lowest air setting to seat, add the other 2, then slightly loosen all 5 to make sure it's completely centered. Torque to 96.5 and you're done.

In the rear, take the opportunity to adjust your parking brake as the spacers cover the access hole, adding a step if you were to do it later.

The 1" spacers do expose about 1/16" - 1/8" of wheel stud beyond their face. This wasn't a problem for me as the Tundra 18" have pockets in their castings between holes. Weight savings? ;-) Just be aware and look at your wheels first before you go with the 1". Conversely, you could grind if you needed a completely flat face.

Haven't yet wheeled with them, but after about a week of commuting, there are no vibrations or ill behaviors. They do, obviously, widen the scrub radius so I now for certain need to pound in my pinch weld. It clears by less than 1/4" now and I'm sure there's that much flex available under load.

Overall, very happy with the mod. Pricey, yes, but they're quality units.
 
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