Wheel bearing preload

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Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Threads
10
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Location
Timmy's-culo, CA
I know this has been beat to death but I can't seem to get this right...

Did this:

"Tighten the inner nut to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth.

Re torque to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth

repeat above two steps until there is no need to re torque.

install tabbed locking washer

install outer nut and torque to 43 ft lbs

Bend tabs of locking washer over."

But when I tighten outer nut to 43 ft lbs I can barely rotate the hub. Should it rotate freely after the lock nut is torqued?

I'm about 15K into having a total birf rebuild with longfields and have developed a wobble during driving that gets really bad during braking, which happened during the drop into anza making for an interesting ride down the mountain. Passenger wheel had play and looked like the nuts needed to be tightened but can't get the above done per the steps without making the hub really hard to rotate.
 
with new bearing I go 15 lbs as everything ends up seating after a few miles.

The process I use:

I torque everything down t0 40 pounds on the first nut, that gets everything to seat. I then try to turn the wheel if I can.

Then back the nut off and retorque to 15 lbs. spin the wheel assembly. If it feels right with not too much drag I leave it.

Then you put the star washer etc on and torque the OUTER nut to 43 pounds. You don't want to torque the inner nut that tight as there will be too much preload on the bearings. You want to bend the tabs on the star washers INWARD and OUTWARD therefor keeping anything from moving or untightening.

After a few of them you kinda just get a feeling for it. I did this on my 80 and my 40 and my 55 and so far so good.

give me a call if I can help talk you through it, no problem, 760-497-1027

Noah
 

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