I know this has been beat to death but I can't seem to get this right...
Did this:
"Tighten the inner nut to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth.
Re torque to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth
repeat above two steps until there is no need to re torque.
install tabbed locking washer
install outer nut and torque to 43 ft lbs
Bend tabs of locking washer over."
But when I tighten outer nut to 43 ft lbs I can barely rotate the hub. Should it rotate freely after the lock nut is torqued?
I'm about 15K into having a total birf rebuild with longfields and have developed a wobble during driving that gets really bad during braking, which happened during the drop into anza making for an interesting ride down the mountain. Passenger wheel had play and looked like the nuts needed to be tightened but can't get the above done per the steps without making the hub really hard to rotate.
Did this:
"Tighten the inner nut to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth.
Re torque to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth
repeat above two steps until there is no need to re torque.
install tabbed locking washer
install outer nut and torque to 43 ft lbs
Bend tabs of locking washer over."
But when I tighten outer nut to 43 ft lbs I can barely rotate the hub. Should it rotate freely after the lock nut is torqued?
I'm about 15K into having a total birf rebuild with longfields and have developed a wobble during driving that gets really bad during braking, which happened during the drop into anza making for an interesting ride down the mountain. Passenger wheel had play and looked like the nuts needed to be tightened but can't get the above done per the steps without making the hub really hard to rotate.