What's your recommendation for a good value 3 or 4 inch round off road light for the Slee Short Bus Bumper? (1 Viewer)

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I'm looking to add a set of round lights to my Slee Short Bus bumper on my 80 Series. What do you recommend? I'm not paying Baja Designs prices, that's crazy to me. I'm looking for something better than Harbor Freight and less pricey than Baja Designs. Fire away. All recommendations appreciated. Thanks.
 
All depends on what you want. If you want cheap but still good. Go with Auxbeam or Harbor freight shockwave. Nightlight is ok but are hit and miss with quality . If you are willing to go a bit more expensive then I’d look at BD or KC. If you want a mix of Price to quality then go with Black Oak or Rigid or Diode dynamics. All of them have their ups and downs. Auxbeam is cheap but have issues with water getting in the cover. Baja Design’s, KC, Rigid, Black oak, and diode are all pretty close on quality and is more of a preference, KC and BD are by far the most expensive.
So if you aren’t worried about price I’d do BD due to their lifetime warranty and insane quality
 
I have some Road Shock (HF) lights, and honestly very impressed with the output. wouldn't have bought them myself (bit of a light snob, so usually go Diode or Baja Designs) but my brother did before I bought my LC back from him. I'll still be upgrading to Baja Designs, but definitely don't have an issue recommending the Road Shocks. Only issue I have is they some times don't turn on when flipping from high to low, but I think that may be more of how they're wired in my circumstance than an issue with the light themselves. but if it is, it'd be in their switch, so an auxbeam, spod, or swich pros would eliminate that anyways.
 
Not a great picture but I’ve been VERY happy with these ProComp lights. They do make a smaller one than this.

1739384362704.jpeg
 
After running a bunch of different eBay/amazon/AuxBeam/Super Bright HID/LED combos over the last 19 years, this is my current Short Bus set up:

2 Morimoto 4Banger HXB yellow spots
1 Morimoto BigBanger HXB spot
1 Morimoto BigBanger HXB combo

I still run my OG Rigid Slee Short Bus light bar and Rigid amber corner/ditch lights. I’m surprised they have lasted nearly 19 years vs some of my cheaper/knock-offs either leaked or failed.
1739385568919.jpeg
 
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I'm looking to add a set of round lights to my Slee Short Bus bumper on my 80 Series. What do you recommend? I'm not paying Baja Designs prices, that's crazy to me. I'm looking for something better than Harbor Freight and less pricey than Baja Designs. Fire away. All recommendations appreciated. Thanks.
Have a look at Nacho Offroad Lighting - https://www.nachooffroadtechnology.com/

They have some really cool multifunction lights. They also know a thing or two about LED's since they are the guys that started Rigid.
 
Ironic, I've had my SB for 12 years now and I was just thinking about posting this very same topic question about a week ago but hadn't done it!

Nacho looks interesting Christo, esp. that SAE combo
 
Virtually every light out there that does not specifically say that it is made in Japan or Taiwan is made in China. In the same factories that churn out all sorts of cheap ass crap along with some pretty good stuff. Generally speaking Japanese lights are great stuff. And the stuff made in Taiwan is in the same class.

My point is... These days, buying any light American branded because it has a pricey name without looking at the specs is probably not the best approach.

I don't have a lot of experience with European manufactured lights any more. If you do go that route, make sure that European brand is not just Euro branded Chinese stuff too.


With a little searching you can often find the same lights that are sold for waaaay too much money under a boutique cool kid brand, quietly sold out the back door of the Chinese factory for a fraction of the price. Or Chinese branded equivalent lights that are proudly sold under their own name... still a lot cheaper. You can also do what a lot of the boutique brands do and get the Chinese factory to make your lights for you and/or just put your name on the box if you buy then in batches of 500 or more.

Of course you can also find cheap knockoffs of ANY of the better lights. Some of the Chinese manufacturers even offer down market versions of their higher quality lights to vendors who are pitching to a more... shall we say... frugal customer, who usually has no idea of how much better the more expensive light is. Amazon and Aliexpress are full of these.

There are even supper s***ty Chinese counterfeits of the decent Chinese brands out there!. :(



Of course... it can be tough to really get a feel for how any light is made, what the real quality is and the actual light that it puts out if you can not hold it, hook it up and test it.

Paying attention to what others have to say is worthwhile. But realize that a lot of people are gonna throw out some pretty strong opinions based on very limited experience with after market lights. Even with the ones that they have purchased. I have seen a lot of guys raving about how great their lights are and when I actually see them I just have to keep my mouth shut and nod my head and try to look impressed. :poop:



Also... you mention the size of the light that you want and the bumper you want to put it in. But you said nothing about what you want the light to do for you. This is really the first step.

Do you want Halogen, HID or LED lights? Projector or reflector? Do you want wide pattern fog light with a razor sharp cutoff? Or would your prefer fuzzier edges? Do you want an extreme long range pencil beam with 1 or 2 degree spread? Do you want broad short range illumination for the trails? Do you want good wide midrange lighting with decent center weighting to supplement your high beams? Do you want a high/low beam combo to help with headlight shortcomings? Cold white, warm white or yellow? Switchable yellow and white? Do you not really care so long as it looks cool to all the soccer dads as you drop the kids off at school? ;)




Soooo many choices. ;)

Mark...
 
Virtually every light out there that does not specifically say that it is made in Japan or Taiwan is made in China. In the same factories that churn out all sorts of cheap ass crap along with some pretty good stuff. Generally speaking Japanese lights are great stuff. And the stuff made in Taiwan is in the same class.

My point is... These days, buying any light American branded because it has a pricey name without looking at the specs is probably not the best approach.

I don't have a lot of experience with European manufactured lights any more. If you do go that route, make sure that European brand is not just Euro branded Chinese stuff too.


With a little searching you can often find the same lights that are sold for waaaay too much money under a boutique cool kid brand, quietly sold out the back door of the Chinese factory for a fraction of the price. Or Chinese branded equivalent lights that are proudly sold under their own name... still a lot cheaper. You can also do what a lot of the boutique brands do and get the Chinese factory to make your lights for you and/or just put your name on the box if you buy then in batches of 500 or more.

Of course you can also find cheap knockoffs of ANY of the better lights. Some of the Chinese manufacturers even offer down market versions of their higher quality lights to vendors who are pitching to a more... shall we say... frugal customer, who usually has no idea of how much better the more expensive light is. Amazon and Aliexpress are full of these.

There are even supper s***ty Chinese counterfeits of the decent Chinese brands out there!. :(



Of course... it can be tough to really get a feel for how any light is made, what the real quality is and the actual light that it puts out if you can not hold it, hook it up and test it.

Paying attention to what others have to say is worthwhile. But realize that a lot of people are gonna throw out some pretty strong opinions based on very limited experience with after market lights. Even with the ones that they have purchased. I have seen a lot of guys raving about how great their lights are and when I actually see them I just have to keep my mouth shut and nod my head and try to look impressed. :poop:



Also... you mention the size of the light that you want and the bumper you want to put it in. But you said nothing about what you want the light to do for you. This is really the first step.

Do you want Halogen, HID or LED lights? Projector or reflector? Do you want wide pattern fog light with a razor sharp cutoff? Or would your prefer fuzzier edges? Do you want an extreme long range pencil beam with 1 or 2 degree spread? Do you want broad short range illumination for the trails? Do you want good wide midrange lighting with decent center weighting to supplement your high beams? Do you want a high/low beam combo to help with headlight shortcomings? Cold white, warm white or yellow? Switchable yellow and white? Do you not really care so long as it looks cool to all the soccer dads as you drop the kids off at school? ;)




Soooo many choices. ;)

Mark...

Thanks for sharing that. I am not a lighting guy, and I've just been using my upgraded 80 Series headlights for the last 13 years with little trouble. Recently, I was on the trail at dusk and just felt I could use some more light. What type of light? Brighter light? I know that sounds simplistic, I realize that it is. I just want more light, I'd say ahead and somewhat to the sides.
 
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Thanks for sharing that. I am not a lighting guy, and I've just been using my upgraded 80 Series headlights for the last 13 years with little trouble. Recently, I was on the trial at dusk and just felt I could use some more light. What type of light? Brighter light? I know that sounds simplistic, I realize that it is. I just want more light, I'd say ahead and somewhat to the sides.

Nothing simplistic about that. Just straightforward realistic expectations.

You can't ask any light to do everything. But what you are looking to find is pretty easy to accomplish.

These days LED has pretty much eclipsed all the other tech out there. Halogen makes more heat than it does light. HID is better but at this point it really offers nothing that LED does not and the HID offerings are limited to say the least. Plus with LED if you want more output you can simply add emitters to the unit more until you get the desired level. Not as easy to do with HID unless you actually add additional "lights".

Laser Stimulated Chip beats all the other tech, but it seems that market interest has never really picked up and there are not a lot of LSP lights out there and they are all long range "pencil beams".

So... IMHO you want LED. you do not need projectors unless you are going for a fog light pattern or a "low beam" with razor sharp horizontal cut off (which it does not sound like you are)

LED reflector is where you are at now then. Some of the newer LED reflector style lights have teen tiny "projector like" lenses over each of the individual emitters. With the inherent 120-140 degree forward cast of the LED emitters, these work well to get a tighter focus than reflectors by themselves.

My personal experience is that for a good medium range light with lots of side scatter to light up the ditches and whatever else might be off to the side as well as pushing decently forward down the road notably further than your high beams, plain old LED reflector designs work well, are plentiful and inexpensive.

To accomplish the goal that you mention I have been perfectly satisfied with lights like these

Not a great picture but I’ve been VERY happy with these ProComp lights. They do make a smaller one than this.

View attachment 3837206


These type lights are almost always varying numbers (depending on the size of the housing) of 5 watt emitters with reflectors and no auxiliary lensing. The wider lighting is basically "side scatter" due to the inability of this approach to achieve real narrow focusing. They still have a hot spot in the center to throw a more light straight ahead and the end result is usually pretty decent close, mid and sometimes even longish range lighting all in one light.

I am running a pair on one of my rigs that basically turns the world in front of me into daylight well beyond even what I need for reaction time at 75 MPH when a moose is in the road out in the pitch black. And they also throw a full 180 degree spread. But... they are a bit over 9 inches in diameter with 45 emitters each and pull an honest 215-220 watts of power EACH.

There are also some out there using multiple (but obviously fewer) 10 watt emitters. Usually with some sort of auxiliary lensing over each emitter. These tend to focus down the road better, but usually toss less to the sides. If this is better or worse depends on what you want and need. I used to prioritize long reach into the night over lighting up off to the sides as much. But at some point... sometime after hitting a couple of different moose and dodging many many more... I realized that those bastards sometimes wait in the ditch to jump out in front of you rather than just planting themselves on the centerline a mile ahead and waiting. :(

The 3-4 inch restriction to fit in your bumper limits you a bit in terms of just how much light you can put out there. Try to get something with the highest number of emitters in whatever size light you get.

Avoid fluted lenses/covers. You can get all the spread that you need with clear lenses and you lose less light to the lens that way.

Do not pay too much attention to whatever claim of wattage anyone might toss out for their LED lights. *Almost* every one selling lights is either out and out lying, or carefully distorting these numbers. And if anyone claims that their offering of xx watts is making significantly more light than any other unit of xx watts. Don't believe it. If they claim some sort of different tech, with weird acronyms and abbreviations and terms no one else is using... without explaining any of it... It's probably bull****. The Chinese vendors are not really any worse than the American vendors about this, but they are more shameless and funnier when you try to read it. ;)

Avoid the cheapest of the cheap on Amazon and Aliexpress. Some of the cheap junk looks exactly like the better stuff until you hold it in your hands, or even open it up. :(
*Personally* I avoid the boutique vendors as well for the most part. Not at all saying that some of that stuff is not amazing. But for what it sounds like you are looking for, you can save a lot of money and still most likely surpass your needs and expectations with lights in the mid tier price zone.

Mark...
 
Nothing simplistic about that. Just straightforward realistic expectations.

You can't ask any light to do everything. But what you are looking to find is pretty easy to accomplish.

These days LED has pretty much eclipsed all the other tech out there. Halogen makes more heat than it does light. HID is better but at this point it really offers nothing that LED does not and the HID offerings are limited to say the least. Plus with LED if you want more output you can simply add emitters to the unit more until you get the desired level. Not as easy to do with HID unless you actually add additional "lights".

Laser Stimulated Chip beats all the other tech, but it seems that market interest has never really picked up and there are not a lot of LSP lights out there and they are all long range "pencil beams".

So... IMHO you want LED. you do not need projectors unless you are going for a fog light pattern or a "low beam" with razor sharp horizontal cut off (which it does not sound like you are)

LED reflector is where you are at now then. Some of the newer LED reflector style lights have teen tiny "projector like" lenses over each of the individual emitters. With the inherent 120-140 degree forward cast of the LED emitters, these work well to get a tighter focus than reflectors by themselves.

My personal experience is that for a good medium range light with lots of side scatter to light up the ditches and whatever else might be off to the side as well as pushing decently forward down the road notably further than your high beams, plain old LED reflector designs work well, are plentiful and inexpensive.

To accomplish the goal that you mention I have been perfectly satisfied with lights like these




These type lights are almost always varying numbers (depending on the size of the housing) of 5 watt emitters with reflectors and no auxiliary lensing. The wider lighting is basically "side scatter" due to the inability of this approach to achieve real narrow focusing. They still have a hot spot in the center to throw a more light straight ahead and the end result is usually pretty decent close, mid and sometimes even longish range lighting all in one light.

I am running a pair on one of my rigs that basically turns the world in front of me into daylight well beyond even what I need for reaction time at 75 MPH when a moose is in the road out in the pitch black. And they also throw a full 180 degree spread. But... they are a bit over 9 inches in diameter with 45 emitters each and pull an honest 215-220 watts of power EACH.

There are also some out there using multiple (but obviously fewer) 10 watt emitters. Usually with some sort of auxiliary lensing over each emitter. These tend to focus down the road better, but usually toss less to the sides. If this is better or worse depends on what you want and need. I used to prioritize long reach into the night over lighting up off to the sides as much. But at some point... sometime after hitting a couple of different moose and dodging many many more... I realized that those bastards sometimes wait in the ditch to jump out in front of you rather than just planting themselves on the centerline a mile ahead and waiting. :(

The 3-4 inch restriction to fit in your bumper limits you a bit in terms of just how much light you can put out there. Try to get something with the highest number of emitters in whatever size light you get.

Avoid fluted lenses/covers. You can get all the spread that you need with clear lenses and you lose less light to the lens that way.

Do not pay too much attention to whatever claim of wattage anyone might toss out for their LED lights. *Almost* every one selling lights is either out and out lying, or carefully distorting these numbers. And if anyone claims that their offering of xx watts is making significantly more light than any other unit of xx watts. Don't believe it. If they claim some sort of different tech, with weird acronyms and abbreviations and terms no one else is using... without explaining any of it... It's probably bull****. The Chinese vendors are not really any worse than the American vendors about this, but they are more shameless and funnier when you try to read it. ;)

Avoid the cheapest of the cheap on Amazon and Aliexpress. Some of the cheap junk looks exactly like the better stuff until you hold it in your hands, or even open it up. :(
*Personally* I avoid the boutique vendors as well for the most part. Not at all saying that some of that stuff is not amazing. But for what it sounds like you are looking for, you can save a lot of money and still most likely surpass your needs and expectations with lights in the mid tier price zone.

Mark...
Thanks, I'm feeling like these might work and not crush my budget:
Thoughts?
 
Thanks, I'm feeling like these might work and not crush my budget:
Thoughts?
Looks like 15 emitters. 3 on each side dedicated primarily to off centerline illumination. I am not sure that they would not have been better served to simply eliminate the deep reflectors and let all 15 shine forward and spill to the sides naturally (they brag about a 140* spread... but that it the default spread for a bare emitter anyway). Those reflectors take up a lot of the room in that light. eliminating them would allow for more emitters/more output.

Cool looking lights catch people's eyes though.... :confused:

More emitters will also pull more power but not much really at a nominal 5 watts each.

I will not nay say it though. Personally for a light that size I'd hope for more output (or a smaller light). But if they are 5 watters and not under driven, then that is 75 watts each.

(More likely about 50-60... did I mention that most companies, along with claiming crazy wattage, actually under drive the emitters so that they last longer? Few people actually measure amperage draw and burnt out lights are worse from the marketing department's point of view than lights that don't put out what they might since most people have no idea what to expect anyway.)

This doesn't mean much unless you are one of us old farts, but just for comparison, an LED puts out about 6-7 times the light watt for watt than an old school halogen. So those 100 watt KC Daylighters that we all lusted for back in the day can be easily matched by a properly focused 15 watt LED unit.



With the amazon return policy you can power it up the night that it arrives and see if you light what it does for you...and send it back if it does not.

Mark...
 
I'm looking to add a set of round lights to my Slee Short Bus bumper on my 80 Series. What do you recommend? I'm not paying Baja Designs prices, that's crazy to me. I'm looking for something better than Harbor Freight and less pricey than Baja Designs. Fire away. All recommendations appreciated. Thanks.
Here's what I have on the front of my LC .
(4) 100 W halogen lights.

You can buy the entire assembly for less than you can buy one replacement bulb from O'Reilly's.

When they start to look rusty or you crack a lens, replace it. I buy them 10 at a time. I can buy 10 for the price of one KC Daylighter that is the same wattage.

I prefer halogen over LED.

Blazer C52CW 6-1/4" Round 100W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004L0AAQY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
One negative feature of LED lighting in freezing rain or wet snow is that they don't produce enough heat to melt it off to keep the lenses clear. The ice builds up and you have to stop and clear the lenses off when you notice that the illumination is fading. Otherwise they're superior in almost every other category, IMHO. If you encounter a lot of that kind of weather, it might pay to have a 2nd set of "old school" halogen or HID lights on the front for backup.
 
Here's what I have on the front of my LC .
(4) 100 W halogen lights.

You can buy the entire assembly for less than you can buy one replacement bulb from O'Reilly's.

When they start to look rusty or you crack a lens, replace it. I buy them 10 at a time. I can buy 10 for the price of one KC Daylighter that is the same wattage.

I prefer halogen over LED.

Blazer C52CW 6-1/4" Round 100W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004L0AAQY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I did not even know that the Blazer branding was still around. I have a soft spot in my heart for those old stalwarts. I see that these are made in Taiwan too. Probably always were I guess. I Love that look on a '40. But I am too much of a function over form guy and I just can not do the heat over light trade off of the halogens anymore.

You are right about the cost. And if you have the amps to burn there is a certain old school cool factor there. :)

Mark...
 
One negative feature of LED lighting in freezing rain or wet snow is that they don't produce enough heat to melt it off to keep the lenses clear. The ice builds up and you have to stop and clear the lenses off when you notice that the illumination is fading. Otherwise they're superior in almost every other category, IMHO. If you encounter a lot of that kind of weather, it might pay to have a 2nd set of "old school" halogen or HID lights on the front for backup.

I used to subscribe to this school of thought. But my experience over the years has been that I have to stop to clean the freezing rain or heavy slush, or ICE FOG :( or whatever oobleck is falling out of the air off of the windshield and wipers long before I need to clear the lights. Although... as I think about it... since I finally got the heater in my primary rig back to the proper "cook you out of the cab" status... this is not as big of an issue anymore. Not in this rig anyway.

My more powerful lights, even though they are LED, produce enough waste heat to stay clear in any temps warm enough for snow. Of course general conditions vary regionally, so experiences are going to as well.

Ice fog is more of a problem for me in terms of keeping lights clear. But chances are if ice fog is the issue, I am not running big light anyway. It just turns the world into the inside of a ping pong ball. :(

I have some projectors with a fantastic cut off that will be mounted in the bumper soon for just this situation though. ;)

Mark...
 
I agree with what @Mark W wrote.

Almost all lights are made in China. Not sure why one would pay the overlander tax to get one from a premium brand, when most are just rebranded chinese. Although, I just bought a pair of Baja Design lights because the bumper was designed to fit a particular model

400 Watts of Halogens are equivalent to about 100 Watts of LED Lights. No way would I choose Halogen over LED in this day and age, unless you hate your alternator/battery.

A set of Nilight LED Pods 2Pcs 4.5Inch 42W 4200LM is only $18/pair. Aluminum body and IP67 rated. That is even cheaper than BILT4ME Halogen lights, and they will never rust and last 50.000 hours.

Personally, my next light will be a thin light bar, rather than a round light. I want to reduce blockage in front of the radiator.
 
If you want old school cool, I have a set of period correct round PIAAs with the snap on plastic grill guards that came on my 80 originally. They look right, but the light output sucks compared to modern LEDs... :)

I'm running two pair of diode dynamics with sae lenses on my shortbus. One pair of combo lenses (with amber backlight function that come in handy when running in a dusty convoy) and one pair of spots. The lenses are easily swapped too, if you want different light patterns. They're probably more modern looking than what you are asking about though.

I waited for sales and got them at a good discount.

IMG_6634.jpeg
 

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