WHat's That NEW Noise??? (After Clutch Install)

[LeftCoast]

Please just tell me I don't need to drop the tranny again...

I just finished putting a clutch in my 92 2WD PU, and notice an ever so subtle "ratatattatttatta", almost like a fast ticking or a fan is lightly hitting something. Sound seems to be low in the middle of the firewall (Gulp!), and only occurs when the gears are engaged; I notice it late in second, then third, etc. It doesn't make any noise if the clutch is down or in neutral, and you rev the car.

Might I need to adjust the clutch pedal or fork? Can you even adjust the fork W/O dropping the tranny? TO bearing not totally disengaging? I changed everything; clutch disc, pp, pilot and TO bearings.

Thanks in advance.

 

[WristPin]

noise with pedal pushed in or not?

its not a car, its a truck.

clutches are not factory adjustable

is there somthing hitting the driveshaft?

 

[LeftCoast]

noise with pedal pushed in or not?

its not a car, its a truck.

clutches are not factory adjustable

is there somthing hitting the driveshaft?

No noise if clutch is pushed down, even if revved up.

Caught the mistake, but I just loved the way "car" was highlighted and couldn't edit it.

Check.

Don't know what could be hitting the drive shaft. Maybe the fork clip is not seated properly, and brushing the spline? Can you see much on the inside from the fork hole, if you pull the boot from the housing?

 

[LeftCoast]

Wristy, I believe you called it.

The instant I touch (not even really press it) the clutch pedal, the sound stops. TO bearing for sure, huh? I must have installed it improperly, I guess.

What's the damage if I do nothing, and can a clutch pedal adjustment fix it, or am I dropping this puppy again? Options???

Thanks all.

 

[WristPin]

those spring clips that hold the throwout bearing onto the fork and trans have to be just right. if its is not, then it will make more and more noise. the bearing is not going to come out, because the shaft is there, but i imagine, that if it is so loose to the point where it (spring clip) will wear on the pressure plate would make a tatatatata sound as it hits the fingers. the fork may come loose from it. and then it wont work at all.

you cant see in the hole much, but is worth a try with a mirror.

the only adjustment is for the pedal to floor hight, and thats not going to help you, if the spring clip is the problem.



but all this aside, somtimes clutches make this noise, and the pedal to floor hight adjustment can fix it.

what you should do is check to see if the rod from the slave to the fork is tight or loose, while it is running. it should be snug, and you should be able to turn the rod. like roll it in your fingers like a cigarette.

i

 

[WristPin]

to measure and adjust the pedal hight to factory specifications, you need toi first peel back the carpet.

now on the apex or highest point on the actual pedal rubber cover. hopefully there is a side on that cover that isnt worn off. from there to directly the asphalt sheet, (which is about a 45degrees, not strait down) of the cab should be 151.5mm (5.9646") which is like 5 and 15/16.


there is a push rod at the top, from the pedal to the master. the play there should be 1.0-5.0mm (.039-.197") which is like 1/16" to 3/16"

to adjust the height lossen the lock nut and turn the bolt. to adjust the rod play, loosen the lock nut and turn the rod.


the pedal hight should be adjusted first then the master to pedal push rod, then finally the freeplay should be adjusted:

push in the pedal untill the beggining of the resistance is felt.
and the freeplay measured from the same spot as the top of the pedal (just like described in the first part above) to the top of pedal, where resistance is felt. . should be 5-15mm (.20-.59") which is like 7/32 to" just under 5/8"

if you adjust the rod play and pedal hight, right, then the free play should be in spec. it is affected by both the rod play and height adjustments.

 

[SteveH]

I had this same noise under the same conditions after an engine job on a Chevy pickup ('83) and I had used a late model harmonic balancer with an early model timing cover. The several thousandths of runout in the crankshaft thrust bearing allowed the crank to move back and the harm. balancer to hit the timing indicator. I swapped on the 'early' harm. balancer, and all was well.

So, before you pull the tranny, get a stethoscope and be sure you know where the noise is coming from. I know that sinking feeling you get when you fire it up and 'all is not right'.