What triggers "Acceleration Enrichment" in OBD1? (1 Viewer)

[IoN6]

I am noticing that when my rig runs like crap and some times bucks from losing power the AE or "Acceleration Enrichment" according to TOYOBD1 appears to be stuck on.

By stuck on I mean totally off the throttle and Open Loop reported in the app as well.

 

[80JDM]

I am noticing that when my rig runs like crap and some times bucks from losing power the AE or "Acceleration Enrichment" according to TOYOBD1 appears to be stuck on.

By stuck on I mean totally off the throttle and Open Loop reported in the app as well.

Did you try it without the Toyobd1 connected?

 

[IoN6]

Did you try it without the Toyobd1 connected?

Not sure how I would be able to see if AE is still triggered/stuck, but I can unplug it and see if it changes how it runs. You thinking it could be a malfunction with the reader?

 

[80JDM]

Not sure how I would be able to see if AE is still triggered/stuck, but I can unplug it and see if it changes how it runs. You thinking it could be a malfunction with the reader?

Who knows? It's the easiest thing to check.

 

[GSTMike]

I am noticing that when my rig runs like crap and some times bucks from losing power the AE or "Acceleration Enrichment" according to TOYOBD1 appears to be stuck on.

By stuck on I mean totally off the throttle and Open Loop reported in the app as well.

What's your TPS % reported at this time? Oh and coolant temp

 

[IoN6]

What's your TPS % reported at this time? Oh and coolant temp

All other sensors from the app are reporting accurate (as I can tell). TPS responds to throttle input, ECT is reporting 195-199F.

 

[80JDM]

All other sensors from the app are reporting accurate (as I can tell). TPS responds to throttle input, ECT is reporting 195-199F.

I just got my Toyobd1 a couple of months ago. I cant wait to check it out when she's all back together.

 

[Vasiliy]

Vacuum leak?

 

[80JDM]

Vacuum leak?

I Iike that vacuum leak idea. Try to find it with a propane bottle on a rubber hose that you can move around the intake hose, manifold, etc. If you find a spot where the revs go up you have a leak. Worth a try for the home gamer it's cheap and easy to do.

 

[IoN6]

I Iike that vacuum leak idea. Try to find it with a propane bottle on a rubber hose that you can move around the intake hose, manifold, etc. If you find a spot where the revs go up you have a leak. Worth a try for the home gamer it's cheap and easy to do.

I have fairly recently replaced all vac lines, and triple checked them.

I did unplug the TOYOBD1 reader and have three outings under my belt, with one being a 100 or so miler. A few slight hesitations but they could very well be my hyper sensitivity right now.

Not sure if it is the reader malfunctioning or what. But I will keep the thread updated.

 

[IoN6]

Well... not the OBD reader causing it.

Not sure if I am checking something incorrectly, or if it is an issue.

When I check the voltage at the fuel pump (red to hot, black to ground) I see the voltage "spike" to 12+v when starting, then notch down to about 9V when cold. Once it is warmed up it sits right at 8.8v idling, but under acceleration it actually dips to about 8.4v. It never ticks back up to what I would assume is 12+v.

I think the bucking and no power are due to the ECU detecting knocking / pinging and it retarding the timing to try and get it under control. It will idle fine when it does this, but it does not have enough power to even maintain its current speed. And I am guessing (more like grasping at straws) that it is running lean which is causing the pre-detonation.

Waiting for the engine bay to cool down enough that I can put the fuel pressure gauge on it.

 

[IoN6]

Removed pin 3 from the 26p connector on the ECU which is what goes to and triggers the Fuel Pump Relay. Starts and stays at 12v, ground that wire out and it drops to 8.8v. Pretty sure I checked that wire already end to end, but will check it again in the morning. If it is not shorted / grounded out, not entirely sure what that means just yet.

But at least I am making progress.

It runs like a champ with the pump getting 12v. It does stumble after sitting at a light ever so quickly, but I am guessing it is getting overfueled with the pump running at the higher voltage? Seen a number of posts that say people have left the pump jumpered to the high side without problem, but logic tells me it has to be getting more fuel than it should at idle or low revs.

 

[ppc]

If the fuel pressure regulator is functioning properly then running the pump continuously at 12V will not be a problem. Any excess fuel returns to the tank.

 

[Sc0-]

AFM issue?

 

[IoN6]

What will trigger the ECU to un-ground the pin going to the Fuel Pressure Relay?

I have been looking for a AFM/VAF but have not had any luck...

 

[IoN6]

AFM issue?

VS to E2 Ohms out, I did notice that if my meter is set to just Ω (as opposed to kΩ) it reports an open circuit in spots. But when set to kΩ it responds throughout the opening of the vane and in a "wave" pattern like the manual states.

THA to E2 is at 1.595 kΩ which I would guess is about right as well it is probably mid-70's right now.

 

[IoN6]

When it is warmed up, the fuel pressure is low (either with the pump at low or high voltage) at ~30psi. Had the original FPR still and swapped it back and have the same pressure. I put the gauge on the inlet for the fuel rail so that pressure is after the filter. Now that it is nice and warmed up will have to wait a bit so I can move it to before the fuel filter.

[edit]
Well, it was the gauge itself that apparently dissolved from the inside. Different gauge and has correct pressure again.

Pump is still not going into 12v mode though
[/edit]