what to look at when buying restored FJ40?

[MTW2]

Hi Guys!
I know most of you are intimately familiar with the FJ40 so I ould appreciate your advice on that to look at when buying a restored FJ40! I am looking at one and it is in not running but supposely the engine has been rebuild - what do you thing about an engine that is not running? It definetely needs other work but that is ok.
Thanks
Martin

 

[StaleAle]

Need pics!

First off, look in FAQ at the top of the 40- & 55-Series Tech forum, there's a buyers guide there with good info.

In general, rusted body and frame are the most expensive "fixes" and are the usual deal killers for most of us (unless you or a relative owns a body shop or you have extensive sheet metal fabrication and repair skills). Most mechanicals and electricals can be replaced or rebuilt with patience, skill, and an occassional raid on the piggy bank.

Check the frame for delamination, heavily pitted, thin spots, cracks or deformities. The frame should be relatively clean inside and out on a restored rig. That's easy to check by crawling under the truck and just looking around with a flashlight and a screwdrive to prod whatever looks suspicious.

Be wary of fresh paint. If it wasn't a frame off resto, then chances are the paint is covering rust problems. Even it was a frame off resto, don't assume they took the time to do it right. Look at all the seams where metal panels are spot welded. Ripples, de-lamination, pin holes, bubbles, etc. are all indicators of hidden problems.

Check the underside of all body panels such as inside the wheel wells, backside of the rocker panels, front floor pan near all the bends and tranny hump, rear sill above the bumper, 4" cross body channel right behind the driver/passenget seats and along the front edge of the bed (favorite spot for mice to nest and trap moisture inside what amounts to the backbone of the tub).

If the engine isn't running, and you are not well acquainted with the owner who claims that it was rebuilt, I would assume that it will require at least $1200 to get it running reasonably well, and that assumes you can turn it over by hand and the motor is clean, the fuel pump pumps fuel, and the fluids are all reasonably decent looking. Adjust your offer accordingly.

Gook luck!

 

[StaleAle]

Also, browse through the various restoration threads to get a feel for what lengths some people go to while putting one of these classics back on the road. It will give you a feel for what might have been done on your truck and where to look for non-factory workmanship.

Ideally, your candidate 40 is close to stock. If it isn't, then you have to look at how well the modifications were executed. For example, look in the Tech Links section on the FAQ page if yours has a V8 (not really a resto if that's the case). Those build threads will tell you the issues that had to be overcome to get it to work. If shortcuts were taken, you will pay the price many times over finding and solving the problem once and for all.

Information is your ally, there is a lot of good stuff here in Woody's Wonderland (IH8MUD.com). Enjoy the journey!

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Hi Guys!
I know most of you are intimately familiar with the FJ40 so I ould appreciate your advice on that to look at when buying a restored FJ40! I am looking at one and it is in not running but supposely the engine has been rebuild - what do you thing about an engine that is not running? It definetely needs other work but that is ok.
Thanks
Martin

First you need to define restoration...in my mind, a restoration means making the cruiser back to the way it was when it was brand spanking new.

Unfortunately, many "resto" cruisers I have seen turn out to be great, awesome, builds, but not restorations...so you need to decide what you want.

Now, to answer your question...a restored 40 with a non running engine sends up red flags, but then again you did not give us that much information to begin with, so hard to say....post up pictures, pictures and more pictures

 

[Wasatch Jay]

StaleAle said it pretty well... For me rust is by far the single biggest issue.

Most people who do a restoration will take some "before" and "during" photos as well as "after". I would suggest you ask to look at those. If the vehicle in question had significant rust in the before photos that's a red flag for me.

Rust is insidious and what you can see is typically the "tip of the iceberg".

 

[MTW2]

Thanks Guys - very good idea with before pics! This is what the seller writes to me:
- Its not to far from running, seem to have a wiring issue between starter, alternater, and block. Then it will need to be tuned. Engine was pulled fully apart and had crank shaft re polished and new bearings placed in it. - concerning that he is unable to make it run!


-Frame was pretty clean to begin with so we opted not to pull the body off, did a quick sand blast and re sprayed.


-A few quarter size spots of rust near the hinge on the front engine panel. We could not find a replacement prior to paint.


-Painted last year, but has spots that need to be retouched in some spots - shows to me this was not a good job.


-Parts replaced- Body-Front fenders, both rear quarter panels, rear interior I beam, rear joint pieces in the body, bottoms of all door jams, New windshield, dash cover, door covers, new seat leather(all), Headliner
Engine- all seals and gaskets, new oil pump, new cam and crank bearings, crank polished, new starter, clutch actuator, prior to rebuild- master brake cyclinder.
It tells me this was a rust bucket to begine with.

Thanks
Martin

 

[Wasatch Jay]

I see a lot of reasons to avoid this Cruiser...

Sandblasting is a really messy process and the blasting media goes everywhere. I don't see how one could do a decent job of sandblasting something without disassembling things first. And if you don't, then that media will be in places you don't want it.

I'm not sure what he means by "front engine panel"? Perhaps the bib?

If it was painted last year and needs to be touched up already that tells me there were rust issues that were not properly repaired.

All the replaced body panels are a HUGE red flag.

He "rebuilt" the engine and didn't do a valve job or replace the piston rings??? Again "doing it right" is a complete and thorough process which costs significant money.

I think you can find a better specimen.

 

[pc4400]

Sounds scary, any diamond plate covering up stuff? Get some compression numbers

 

[ATX1]

Thanks Guys - very good idea with before pics! This is what the seller writes to me:
- Its not to far from running, seem to have a wiring issue between starter, alternater, and block. Then it will need to be tuned. Engine was pulled fully apart and had crank shaft re polished and new bearings placed in it. - concerning that he is unable to make it run!


-Frame was pretty clean to begin with so we opted not to pull the body off, did a quick sand blast and re sprayed.


-A few quarter size spots of rust near the hinge on the front engine panel. We could not find a replacement prior to paint.


-Painted last year, but has spots that need to be retouched in some spots - shows to me this was not a good job.


-Parts replaced- Body-Front fenders, both rear quarter panels, rear interior I beam, rear joint pieces in the body, bottoms of all door jams, New windshield, dash cover, door covers, new seat leather(all), Headliner
Engine- all seals and gaskets, new oil pump, new cam and crank bearings, crank polished, new starter, clutch actuator, prior to rebuild- master brake cyclinder.
It tells me this was a rust bucket to begine with.

Thanks
Martin

You already know your answer. The visible oxidation and an uproven powertrain mean don't waste too much time fixing this other guy's problem.

 

[MTW2]

Thanks! I am running This is the 3th FJ40 I have looked at that just is full of rust and would be endless body repairs. Thanks for the advice!

 

[cjgoode]

What was the price or do you want something that requires no work? If price is right this might not be to bad, but the price better not be for a restored cruiser, because this is not. Knowing the paint job was poor and needs to be re done when buying is a lot better then finding that out 6 months later, but price needs to reflect the paint job will require more work then if it had not been painted, and I would pay a price that reflects the engine might be no good and needs to be replaced. Rebuild and not get it running because of wires sounds odd.