Would anyone here who has done gear work/locker installs be able to recommend whether a 12 or 20 ton hydraulic press would be necessary to install arb lockers?
What size hydraulic press for lockers
- Thread starter highfructose
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I have owned both. Get the 20-ton, mostly because the increased working area of the larger model is really valuable but also because the cheaper press options won’t live up to their rated force. Even if the ram itself can produce that force, the rest of the device flexing makes it difficult if not dangerous to push it that far.
My recent rear bearing job had me quite nervous standing next to the 20 working the jack handle..
My recent rear bearing job had me quite nervous standing next to the 20 working the jack handle..
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- #4
thanks.
Did you purchase a particular set of bearing press plates that you might recommend?
I have this no frills set from HF and it did the job. To be fair, I didn't open the clamshell on the front diff so I don't know if any special operation was needed there.
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Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set, 10 Piece
Amazing deals on this Bearing Race And Seal Driver Set 10Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
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Still in the early stages and I could use some recommendations on differential install kits/parts. I've got the keystone pieces in the garage as I attempt to collect the ancillary parts before I rip into the car. Planning a 4.3 re-gear with rear only Harrop e-locker. Locker is less of a...
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I’ve been slowly collecting old bearing shells, cylindrical chunks of metal, and various parts to use in that capacity over the years. So can’t really recommend any specific tools other than the OTC bearing splitter I have which is fantastic. You’ll need one of those to handle the big pinion bearing for dialing in the shims.
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- #7
I don’t think I saw a bearing splitter in the video. I’m assuming the tool in the attached photo will do what the bearing splitter would?
Ah yeah, I wasn’t thinking about a diff install without regear at the same time. If you aren’t doing a full pattern adjust and gear setup (necessitating removing the large pinion bearing from the pinion) you won’t need the tool I mention.
That fact actually changes the forces needed a lot, and a 12-ton should be able to handle that, but I’d still recommend the 20 simply for the extra work space within the tool.
You'll want to have bearing splitter as it's useful in many different situations with the press. I also found it handy to pull CVs from the case, as it made for a stable and flat surface to leverage from.
Are you going to be replacing all the bearings while installing lockers? If so, you won't necessarily need to pull the bearings off the old carrier. Though the tool you pictured would be a good one to do that with.
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- #10
I may replace all the bearings. I haven’t decided yet. It may be a good idea because the guy in the video says he cleaned the bearings in a parts washer. And I don’t have a parts washer.
Also the diffs I sourced both have around 95k miles (just like my car). Plus the front diff is from a tundra so the 95k miles has a sort of asterisk since it’s only a part time 4wd.
Would anyone happen to know where to source the aluminum “pucks” that the guy used to “hold” the carrier while torquing the ring gear bolts (attached photo)?
At least one of those is just a simple seal driver. Harbor freight sells sets for cheap.
That’s not at all the only way to torque things though. If you are building a stand to hold the third member still for your work, you can also drill holes in some angle iron and bolt that to the pinion flange to hold it still, and torque the ring gear bolts with the carrier installed in the larger third member with the pinion preventing it rotating.
Also note that if you change bearings you are in for a whole lot more work. You can’t assume they are machined to the exact same tolerances, so you’ll be looking at a full pattern setup. They’ll likely be close, but not perfect.
A front diff being ADD/part time should drastically cut down on the bearing wear, by the way.
A parts washer isn’t that big of a deal. I’ve done a lot of work over the years with a simple bucket of old gasoline, some chemical gloves, and a fan to keep the vapors away from my face.
That’s not at all the only way to torque things though. If you are building a stand to hold the third member still for your work, you can also drill holes in some angle iron and bolt that to the pinion flange to hold it still, and torque the ring gear bolts with the carrier installed in the larger third member with the pinion preventing it rotating.
Also note that if you change bearings you are in for a whole lot more work. You can’t assume they are machined to the exact same tolerances, so you’ll be looking at a full pattern setup. They’ll likely be close, but not perfect.
A front diff being ADD/part time should drastically cut down on the bearing wear, by the way.
A parts washer isn’t that big of a deal. I’ve done a lot of work over the years with a simple bucket of old gasoline, some chemical gloves, and a fan to keep the vapors away from my face.
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- #12
Thanks for the advice on parts washing. Good to know.
It sounds like you’re saying that if I put new bearings on the arb carrier, rather than using the bearings from the original carrier, the pattern that the pinion and ring gear will make at their interface will be different to such an extent that it will require extensive adjusting…whereas if I use the original bearing except move them over to the arb, that the pattern that the ring and pinion have set will be easier to adjust back into its previous set point.
Is that correct?
Not quite. Changing diff carrier bearings isn’t nearly as big of a deal since you’ll have to adjust lash no matter what you do, and then set your carrier bearing preload.
Changing pinion bearings is a whole different thing. That requires shimming between the big bearing and pinion head to get the pattern correct, and by shimming I mean assemble, check pattern, pull bearing off to change shims, repeat. Since you’d be using your old gears you can use the original shims as a starting point but there’s a good chance it will require some adjusting.
For more info on the whole setup process check any of Zuk’s builds. Super easy to find on google. The guy is a master and does a great job of explaining and documenting.
What you are aiming to do is easily done with an assortment of old races and cones with cages and rollers removed and a 32oz ball peen hammer. I’d always install new Toyota, Koyo, Nachi, Timken etc bearings. The races wear in a very specific pattern in a carrier and it’s simply impossible to get them back to the original position.
Save your money and buy a nice dial indicator and right angle adapter for the front diff. If you’re running an ARB in the front, you’ll be doing a fair bit of mock assy to get BL and PL correct. You can also buy your significant other something nice for the used gear oil fumes pouring out of the oven haha
Save your money and buy a nice dial indicator and right angle adapter for the front diff. If you’re running an ARB in the front, you’ll be doing a fair bit of mock assy to get BL and PL correct. You can also buy your significant other something nice for the used gear oil fumes pouring out of the oven haha
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