Burn valve #7. Likely one head. Highly unusual per the mechanic, but stuff happens. What should I be looking to spend on this, so I don't get my head taken off on this?
Thank you in advance!
Thank you in advance!
What should I pay for a valve job on a 200 5.7 V8?
- Thread starter TexasHusker
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There have a couple of members posting about replacing/rebuilding a head due to valve spring failure. I wouldn’t be surprised if a bad spring caused that burned valve on yours. Might be worth a search to see what turns up for valve spring repair.
The cost of the “while you’re in there” items should also be factored in with this repair.
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- #4
any concept on cost to repair? hundreds, thousands, tens of thousands?
Thousands.
Reputable shop labor by the hour is hundreds. You need to pull the head to do this and you can’t really know the extent of the machining needed until you do. If you need a new head it could get real expensive real quick.
- Thread starter
- #6
So worst case, is this $5K, 10K, 15K
I think you can find a head rebuild for both sides for about $2k, including resurfacing. If you need new parts (springs, valves, cams, bearings), add $$$ accordingly. That can add up to $5k pretty quick. You might try to source new built heads or used ones depending on your budget.
I know where you can get new heads for $1300 usd per side, plus shipping, plus import fees.
I know where you can get new heads for $1300 usd per side, plus shipping, plus import fees.
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- Thread starter
- #8
Ok. So $5K might be worst case? My mechanic said he can get a good deal on parts if I don’t need it done immediately. I’m actually taking delivery on a Defender Friday.
I would strongly encourage a new head, along with all of the "while I'm in there repairs" since it's mostly broken down at that point.
Reason for the new head. The 3UR is VERY sensitive to machining, too much and you'll be chasing cam/crank correlation codes. Have seen it first hand in a Tundra I purchased for cheap out of Amarillo funny enough. My solution was a good used engine, but that was extreme case as the engine was rough.
There are thicker head gaskets to compensate for the machining, but I'd rather use an OEM head gasket IMO.
Reason for the new head. The 3UR is VERY sensitive to machining, too much and you'll be chasing cam/crank correlation codes. Have seen it first hand in a Tundra I purchased for cheap out of Amarillo funny enough. My solution was a good used engine, but that was extreme case as the engine was rough.
There are thicker head gaskets to compensate for the machining, but I'd rather use an OEM head gasket IMO.
- Thread starter
- #10
Ok. And what do you figure this will cost ?
Best price I can find is ~$1300 per side USD for partial assemblies. That includes the head, springs, retainers, and rockers, but I don't think valves are included in part number 1110138H20 or 1110238H20. You'll need a bunch of other gaskets and stuff...oh, and while you are in there...
If you can possibly get away with rebuilding your heads, or even just replacing that valve, it will almost certainly be cheaper than buying a bunch of new gear. Buying new gear will almost certainly be more reliable. Labor isn't cheap and lots is required. Tough call.
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A reputable shop will be able to give you an estimate that’s more accurate than online guesstimates. The estimate may be a range, because at this point no one knows how much damage has been done. I suggest concentrating on finding a trustworthy shop and letting them find out what’s going on. Once you get a solid number, come back to this thread for ideas on -while you’re in there- things.
- Thread starter
- #13
Update: Mechanic said doing one head should be fine. He has never seen this happen on a Toyota 5.7 with even close to this few miles. Said it was a fluke deal. No need to touch the other side.
Please report if he finds a broken valve spring.
So... How many miles and what year LC200?
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- #17
2010 185K.
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- #18
I'm going to pass this intel along. Thank you!