What is the better articulating Trailer Hitch? (1 Viewer)

[Fisher23]

Is the Ark any good? or the caravan?

I've used the Lock-n-roll and it's solid but some times has issues when backing up.

Then I got a "Max Coupler" and it is complete garbage. The pin rusted solid to the bushing and I had to cut the trailer off.

 

[80t0ylc]

Is the Ark any good? or the caravan?

I've used the Lock-n-roll and it's solid but some times has issues when backing up.

Then I got a "Max Coupler" and it is complete garbage. The pin rusted solid to the bushing and I had to cut the trailer off.

(Please understand, this is meant to help you, not disrespectfully criticize your methods.) How often did you PM your hitch? Something tells me if it "rusted solid", it spent a lot of time being ignored. Max Coupler is regarded as a solid articulating hitch by those that use it correctly. It needs to be cleaned and lubed regularly depending on it's use. That means sometimes even a couple times a day with severe use. If that is too much trouble, you might try a pintle. Pretty much maintainence free, but noisy and jerky as hell.

On a side note I use both the traditional cup and ball and the Max Coupler. For paved roads and even most dirt, the cup and ball is sufficient saving the Max Coupler for the knarly tough off road stuff. I know most don't go with 2 hitch types for several reasons, but I'm just making suggestions. If you're interested, you can click on the trailer link in my sig to see how I set up the tongue on my squaredrop to use 2 hitches. It's shown on post #6. If you think about it, for most of the time towing, an articulating hitch is not necessary. And the complexity makes it vulnerable to the elements that destroy it. It takes me 10 minutes to switch types.

 

[titanpat57]

I've had a Max Coupler for/still 11 years absolutely zero issues.

 

[e9999]

well, I've used pintles and lunettes for over 20 years and zero issues too. Should you be worried about flopovers twisting stuff, use a swiveling lunette (grease it every few years if particular). Worried about clunking? duct tape a rubber hose bit on the lunette - or just duct tape the lunette directly for that matter. Or just enjoy the manly clunk!

And this thread might be better off in the Trailer forum?

 

[Douglas S]

I've never understood the clunking complaint about pintles - just make sure your hitch is sized appropriately. My M101cdn was noisy when I was using a ball/pintle combo hitch but I swapped that to a standard pintle and it's barely even detectable.

 

[Fisher23]

I'm thinking of switching to the Cruiser Master DO35 with includes the hand brake on it.

 

[80t0ylc]

I'm thinking of switching to the Cruiser Master DO35 with includes the hand brake on it.

Seems solid after looking at the US distributor website. Being from Oz, you might have to do some waiting for availibility or parts if necessary. Would like more details on the hand brake and how it's setup with an existing trailer brake system. Their ads and specs don't give much info or help if it's mechanical or electric. The lower bracket makes it look mechanical and if so, you'll need to fab up a cable system similar to a vehicle's e-brake. Then obtain the hub parts to connect the cables to so it will blend with your trailer's electric brakes. On the inside dust plate, look for a smaller round cap at the top, bewteen 2 rivets. That's where it should connect to your trailer brakes. It's possible all parts are already installed and just not hooked up. It's also possible, depending on your axle, that no connection is available. Pics from my axle:

 

[Fisher23]

The brake is cable mechanical. I have the info for a company that custom made the brake cables on another trailer of mine. They just needed the length of the cable and the length of the cable protective sleeve, and maybe one more measurement.

There is a arm on the back for parking brakes, which you can add to your system that presses the drum brakes. Then you need the cables and the hand brake.
It you picture it has a plate over where this arm goes.

I have pintle hitches on my M1101 and M116A3 trailers, and they work good. They are a little clucky on tight trails with sharp turns.

This link has a good explanation.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-306179.html

 

[80t0ylc]

The brake is cable mechanical. I have the info for a company that custom made the brake cables on another trailer of mine. They just needed the length of the cable and the length of the cable protective sleeve, and maybe one more measurement.

There is a arm on the back for parking brakes, which you can add to your system that presses the drum brakes. Then you need the cables and the hand brake.
It you picture it has a plate over where this arm goes.

I have pintle hitches on my M1101 and M116A3 trailers, and they work good. They are a little clucky on tight trails with sharp turns.

This link has a good explanation.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-306179.html

That's the ticket for the manual brake. Yeah, I don't have the arm and internal assembly that is needed. I checked out that link that you provided and it reminded me that I've got the break-away system with the cable that I rarely connect to my tow rig. I'll have to check it out to see if I can use it as an e-brake to hold the trailer on a hill. I'm pretty sure it's still hooked up to my trailer battery, so it should work. Pic below shows the actuator switch for the breakaway system. The cable with the carabiner through both end loops to hold it out of the way. The 'biner is used to connect the other end to the safety chain tie point on my tow rig. If the trailer should come completely loose (safety chains & all), it pulls the actuator plug out of the switch & completes the 12V connection to the trailer's electric brakes to activate them and stop the trailer in a reasonable manner (theoretically), provided the tongue doesn't plant into the road and pole vault the trailer into the air or worse. I have no idea how well this works and hope I never find out.

 

[Fisher23]

The ebrake is easy to check, just unplug the trailer emergency-plug (pulls out easy by hand) and then drag the trailer a few feet and make sure the tires lock up. If they don't .. first thing to check is the emergency-brake-battery is good or not? Does it have 12 volts? You can also just jack up a trailer wheel and test it.

The reason to unplug the trailer is the vehicle 12 volt will charge that e-brake battery.

 

[80t0ylc]

The ebrake is easy to check, just unplug the trailer emergency-plug (pulls out easy by hand) and then drag the trailer a few feet and make sure the tires lock up. If they don't .. first thing to check is the emergency-brake-battery is good or not? Does it have 12 volts? You can also just jack up a trailer wheel and test it.

The reason to unplug the trailer is the vehicle 12 volt will charge that e-brake battery.

Yup, I want to trace out the wiring 1st to verify that it's connected to the trailer battery. If so, it'll work like a charm. The brakes on my trailer work well, so I can't see why it won't work. It's on my "to do" list now - when I get around to it...lol. Might not want to make a habit of engaging it, depending on how much battery it uses.

 

[mep1811]

I use a rotating pintle hitch and a lunette ring. Simple, cheap and rugged.

 

[Fisher23]

Thanks. I'll see if they have one on Monday.

I had one and sold it a few years back with another trailer and have been unable to find another one. It was part LLHOOK02 (Jeep).
It was the other way around .. the pintle would rotate and the pintle-hook remained fixed.

 

[mep1811]

A couple more pictures of my hitch setup.

 

[alia176]

I'm late to the party but I have the TREG receiver with the mech parking brake system on both of my campers. That's the only articulating hitch system I've used and I have no complaints. I upgraded the previous camper, Kamparoo Weekender, with a Dexter 3500# axles with e-brake and mech parking brake options. It was an easy install and well worth the effort. The trailer only weighed 2600# but having both style of brakes was quite lovely.