What is key for a functional suspension lift?

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Turbo55

Turbo55

Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Threads
3
Messages
7
Location
St. Paul, AB
(Depending on the answers, this might be good in the FAQ)

After searching for over 2 hours and asking at least 10 4x4 shop pros I give up and have to ask...

What do I NEED to do a lift on my 100 series?

Regardless of name brands, in order to do a lift on a 100 series my understanding at this point is:

1) 100% "Must haves" (What are the key parts needed?) - So far I know I NEED 2 coil springs and 4 shocks

2) 90% "Need" - 2 Torsion bars (I keep reading in places the original ones can work fine, true?)

3) 50% "Nice to have" - Upper Control arms; the more people I ask the more it's split. The consensus is "It's an $800 nice to have, it helps with alignment." Well if they won't give me any noticeable difference, I don't do an alignment everyday and I can find better use for my money.

4) 30% "You could" - Diff drop; I have sales people saying "It wouldn't hurt" and my local 4x4 shop saying they take more diff drops off than they install. They are saying it's a complete waste.

I understand you get what you pay for but I can't discern what is really going to help with handling ect and what is simply going to line the sales guys pockets... Kind of like do you want the extended warranty or fries with that...
 
It can range from a pair of rear spring spacers, and adjusting the torsion bars to a full blown springs/torsion bars/shocks/UCA/diff drop.

There is a wide range of options, a lot of it is going to depend on what your "build" plan is (weight) and what you plan on doing with the vehicle.

What exactly are you trying to accomplish with the lift?
 
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Turbo55 said:
My plan is 2.5" that rides nice down back roads and pavement. Not Baja.
Click to expand...
2.5" brings lots of compromises and lots of costs that are unnecessary for back roads and pavement. You didn't specify build plans and weight, but for your user of pavement and back roads, no bumpers, sliders, winch, drawers, or roof rack are needed, so either rear spacers or 865's in back, and crank OEM torsion bars for about an inch lift will allow 295/75/16's.

You're not changing front travel until you get aftermarket UCA's, so shocks aren't really necessary for 1-1.5" lift.

There no single "FAQ-able" answer to your question. It just takes a few hours of reading, and even then, "it depends"...
 
I think @re_guderian has your answers. I'll say everything he said just because I want to get my $0.02.
For backroads and pavement, a lift is "nice to have."
But if you want a lift, spring spacers in back and a front torsion adjustment would do the trick. Keep your shocks.
 
It's about goals and reliability. You said 2.5" that rides nice... My 100 rides super nice down the highway and can conquer back roads and alot more.

I'm up 2.75 - 3" which is about the practical maximum - I have all of the parts you mentioned and more because that's what it takes to get that lift and reliability. I'd say all in $4G's

-Rad Flo 2.5" Remote Reservoir Shocks
-Total Chaos UCA
-Old Man Emu 2864 Rear Springs
-Old Man Emu 303001 Torsion Bars
-Slee Offroad Diff Drop
-Extreme Land Cruiser Extended rear ASB Links
-Custom RobRed Extended (2") front Sway Bar Links
-Metaltech Adjustable Rear Control Arms (LCA)
-Metaltech Adjustable Rear Control Arms (UCA)
-Spidertrax (Slee Off Road) 1.25" - Hub Centric Wheel Spacers (front/rear)

All of that supports my heavy heavy 100... I have roof tent, bumpers, sliders, drawer system, gear and more gear etc etc

If you never intend to do more than lift for looks the you could crank the torsion bars and add spacers to the stock rear springs and get that 1.5 lift. I would still recommend a diff drop as it restores your CV angles. Any shop that says they take more Diff Drops off than they install on a 100 is full of shift.

I've done all the iterations because I incrementally added weight to my 100.

I've had 865, 860, 863 and 864 rear springs
I've run stock torsion and 303001s
I've run stock shocks, OME, Bilstein and RadFlo

Take off the running boards and your truck will look 2 inches higher in about 5 minutes.
 
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Turbo55 those are great questions. I've gone back and forth on different setups, and just when I think I've got it figured out I read another thread on here and go back to the drawing board!
It's not as simple as lifting an 80 (or as cheap), so I'll keep reading before I spend my hard earned $$ so this is a great thread.
My plan is to get all my gear on (bumpers, drawers etc) first then see how she sits before I pull the trigger.
Start cheap with springs and TB and go from there.
 
ukaviator said:
Turbo55 those are great questions. I've gone back and forth on different setups, and just when I think I've got it figured out I read another thread on here and go back to the drawing board!
It's not as simple as lifting an 80 (or as cheap), so I'll keep reading before I spend my hard earned $$ so this is a great thread.
My plan is to get all my gear on (bumpers, drawers etc) first then see how she sits before I pull the trigger.
Start cheap with springs and TB and go from there.
Click to expand...

I would build from the foundation up.
 
I accomplished mine with about $500. OME 860's in the rear, Nitrochargers all around, and .5 inch crank on the t bars.

My motivation to lift, however, was purely functional. I was tired of my springs sagging and wanted to be able to carry more gear. If you're doing it for looks then you might want to consider the full package.

If you are going that route, I believe your percentages are a little off. You likely do not need new torsion bars unless you're getting a front bumper. OEM can be cranked or re-indexed.

UCA's would be nice but not really necessary because you're likely not going to get more than 2" in the front and still have enough rear - front rake.

Diff drop is more important than UCA's. Relieving the stressful angle off the CV's can save you alot down the road. I haven't had issues with mine as I purposely kept my front end lift to a minimum.

Beware of some sport shocks, they can be very sporty.
 
ukaviator said:
Turbo55 those are great questions. I've gone back and forth on different setups, and just when I think I've got it figured out I read another thread on here and go back to the drawing board!
It's not as simple as lifting an 80 (or as cheap), so I'll keep reading before I spend my hard earned $$ so this is a great thread.
My plan is to get all my gear on (bumpers, drawers etc) first then see how she sits before I pull the trigger.
Start cheap with springs and TB and go from there.
Click to expand...


I can tell you right now where you'll be - waaay under sprung :-)

If you are putting all that on your 100 you'll need 863s, torsion bars and shocks to damp the increased weight.
 
A different take: I chose to not do any suspension lift on mine yet, wanted to observe any limits beforehand..and it's the family DD. I think I also like the big tire/low lift look since I did the same on my pickup. Like most here it's more pavement pounder with occasion offroad and trails. I did add 33" tires and removed the running boards which I guess gave me a slight lift.

After years like this I would say that once the :princess: gives it up as the DD, I would rather put the money into rock sliders and belly protection before I need more height. I would have done the sliders earlier but I've been putting off the DIY approach since I want what's not offered by any of the vendors. F/R bumpers can wait, I can usually avoid hitting stuff up front, I don't wheel trails that will rip off the rear bumper (also have tow hitch for protection and rear winch point...and if I'm wheeling trails with that terrain I'm going to need more than just a lift - 35s, 4.88s, F/R locked, F/R armor, etc), and Toyotas shouldn't need winches anyways, lol.

I haven't found any need for more clearance yet on all the situations I've been in with this rig. Works great on all pavement and road trips with 7 full-size adults and their junk, back roads and fire roads are a breeze, even the mild trails around Tahoe are fine. Snow, mud, sand, everything everyone else does with theirs. I have not yet tested this rig on any "hardcore" wheeling trips (like Moab or Rubicon) since you typically need the full treatment to even attempt something like that in a big-ass 100-series...that's also a DD...
 
Yet another take.

The suspension, especially the front IFS, is most effective at its stock geometry. Any large lift puts it out of whack, with poor caster (steering stability/centering), toe consistency (bump steer), and lack of droop travel. Nevermind the bad CV angels.

I personally would go with a layered lift strategy to achieve the height you want.
1) 33-34" tires. This is real lift as it gives more overall clearance. May not need to regear for 33", but may want for 34", and whether you have a 4/5 speed tranny. +1 - 1.5" lift
2) 1/2 - 1" body spacer. Adds some approach and departure angle especially if you lift the bumpers too. Adds visual lift but keeps the overall center of gravity lower with the driveline and chassis staying relatively lower.
3) Mild 1/2-1" suspension lift. Keep all the goodness of the stock geometry, without adding poor handling manners. Adds some more compression travel, but keeps good droop travel.

With the above strategy, you can easily achieve 2-4" of lift. And it would have very little compromises of a max suspension lift. Very likely cheaper as well!
 
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After doing research on the same questions you asked I decided to put 865s in the back (for what ever reason the only spacers I could find were about half the price of the ome springs) and reindex the torsion bars. I didn't replace the shocks (yet), as the po had just replaced them with oem. I am happy with how it rides, and it doesn't squat as bad with a loaded trailer. I got 1.5" in the back and raised the front 1.75"
 
I have OME 865s with ironman 1in coil spacer with Fox Shocks in the rear. Cranked the TBs .5 - .75 (cant remember) Rides very good, looks good. Have done many trails in CO . Only time more lift would have helped me was twice and im not even sure an extra inch would have made a difference, but 35s on the otherhand.........

Spring - $130
Spacers - $50 I think
Used shocks $120
New OEM Shocks up front $80

Total = $380
 
mmw68 said:
If one was to add rear spring spacers... who's spacer are people using these days? 80's spacer fit 100's - Correct??
Click to expand...
Good question Tagged!
 
What should be my "center hub to fender distance", both frt and rear, ... if I'm stock?...want to have a proper starting place for stock torsion bars adjustment , then maybe raise .5-.75, and also decide on rear spring spacers or OME's
 
@TeCKis300 Please see my post ...you see to have a good handle on this stuff
 
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