What engine to pick for my FJ40

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Fast Eddy said:
Get a 6.5 Turbo Diesel and an nv4500. Or figure out a 6.2 diesel and retrofit a turbo onto it. You should be able to get the engine in and running for under $2k and spend the rest making it run how you want. There's something to be said for 20+mpg these days.

Either one should just about "bolt right up".
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I agree with Fast Eddy. I've read recent reports of the latest 6.5 mil surplus motors being the Navistar blocks which are much better than what you'll find in the wrecking yards.

The 6.2/6.5 is a direct bolt up to the SBC motor mounts and bell housing. There will be a few changes needed to make the military motor compatible with your 40. Primarily, changing it from a 24V starter and injection pump to 12V. The military oil pan may need to be changed, depending on clearances to your front axle. The exhaust will probably need to be changed to pipe big enough for the diesel.

I bought a Chevy K2500 6.5TD a year ago and love it. I am now a diesel addict!

Don
 
For your budget and having to pay a shop for most of the work, I would keep it simple. A brand new 290 HP/ 325 TQ 350 crate engine for around $1800 from a local dealer (no shipping), a $1000 affordable fuel injection system which is just like a stock 80's truck throtle body injection, some odds and ends, and you have new fuel injected power and maybe some money left for a wheeling trip. For even less, you could buy a stock replacement 350 260 HP foraround $1300 and all the rest the same as above.
 
handcannon said:
There will be a few changes needed to make the military motor compatible with your 40. Primarily, changing it from a 24V starter and injection pump to 12V.
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I'd eliminate the EFI and use a mechanical pump from a 6.2/early 6.5 for better reliability.
 
handcannon said:
I agree with Fast Eddy. I've read recent reports of the latest 6.5 mil surplus motors being the Navistar blocks which are much better than what you'll find in the wrecking yards.

The 6.2/6.5 is a direct bolt up to the SBC motor mounts and bell housing. There will be a few changes needed to make the military motor compatible with your 40. Primarily, changing it from a 24V starter and injection pump to 12V. The military oil pan may need to be changed, depending on clearances to your front axle. The exhaust will probably need to be changed to pipe big enough for the diesel.

I bought a Chevy K2500 6.5TD a year ago and love it. I am now a diesel addict!

Don
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So where do you find surplus diesel engines?

Doc
 
I'm not very good with computors and both of my experts (kids) are gone for the weekend so I'll try to muddle through this and see if I can get a link.

Couldn't figure out a link, tried copy and paste, pic and stuff didn't copy well enough to be usefull.

His e-bay store is "Ted's Trucks N Stuff", or maybe "ted-s-trucks", the item number is 360338666348 for a 6.2 for $975 + shipping.

He has a 6.5, item number 360340629998 for $1600 + shipping.

Both items are long blocks. They will need starter, injection pump, maybe manifolds and injection lines and injectors and glow plugs.

If I didn't supply enough info for you to find these on e-bay let me know and when my son gets home I'll enlist his expertise.

In the meantime I'll go to the diesel forums and see if I can find the thread/posts with the info from the guy that put one of these motors into his pickup.

By the way, the forums are; thetruckstop.us ---- and ---- dieselplace.com ----- go to the 6.5 and 6.2 forums.

Don
 
Sounds semi-promising....


Hey Doc,
That is quite an undertaking. We have sold our 6.2 and 6.5 engines to folks who are undertaking the change to diesel. At this time we have plenty of engines, do some research and find out all the facts and requirements. I have a list of parts some of our out of country customers request for parts, I will be glad to supply.
Let me know if you want the list and if you have a mechanic for the change over we have your engine!
I will watch for your reply!
 
TPI

tuned port is pretty cheap and bolts in
122p.webp
122p.webp
 
Here is the quote for a 6.2 diesel engine

6.2 engine
civilian dipstick and tube, used
power steering pump and alternator bracket, used
civilian oil filter bracket, used
civilian air filter housing, used
12V injector pump cap solenoids, used
civilian oil pan and pickup tube, used
civilian intake and exhaust manifolds, used
civilian crank and water pump pulley, used
starter, new
oil filter, new
air filter, new
glow plugs. new
oil pan gasket, new
intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, new
manual transmission flywheel, pilot bearing and bushing, new
front and rear main seals, new
starter bolts, new

$1925.00
 
I know you have expressed concern about your mechanical abilities. But, IF (that little word with a big meaning) you have the time to run down parts, either in a wrecking yard or online, you could find some of the parts needed and probably save yourself some of the cost of parts.

Go to the GM diesel forums I named and start lurking there. That's what I did a couple years ago. The people on them are great people, just like here on Mud. With an attitude of willingness to learn they will take you under their wing and teach and help you along.

Don
 
After looking at the pics in your other thread I realized I missed something. Diesels don't make vacuum. The brakes on your 77 have a vacuum booster. The 6.5 turbo did have a vacuum pump on them to work the turbo wastegate, but I don't know if it is strong enough to operate the booster. The GM diesel rigs of the 80's and the 90's did use a hydroboost for the brakes. The hydroboost runs off the power steering pump. I have this in both my 83 and 94 pickups and it works great.

I just don't want to leave you without some important info if you do go the diesel route.

Don
 
After talking to my mechanic about the 6.2 transplant, we decided that the negatives pretty much outweigh the positive attributes of such a project.

It looks like the KISS method of a simple 350 (260 hp/ 300ish torque) with an Edelbrock fuel injection will be the route that I may go. It fits well into my budget ~ $2500 for the components.

Specs on the Engine

350 Engine Specifications
4-bolt main with 2-piece rear main seal
Cast iron crankshaft
LT1/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods
Cast pistons (dished)
Hydraulic flat tappet cam (.383''/.401'' and 112° lobe separation)
Cast iron cylinder heads with 76cc chambers
8.5:1 compression ratio
Left and right hand dipstick (Requires 1/2" x 18 Plug for Unused Side - Not Included)
4-quart oil pan
Timing tabs for a 6-3/4'' or an 8'' balancer
Recommended spark plug: Accel #111-574 or any spark plug with 14mm .460'' reach, 5/8'' hex, tapered seat, projected tip

809-10067353.jpg


Specs on the Fuel Injection

Edelbrock 3506U - Edelbrock Fuel Injection Systems


The new Pro-Flo®2 (second generation) offers a complete fully-sequential EFI system with an all-new, powerful electronics package that includes everything you need to convert a carbureted engine to a modern fuel injection system. Starting with a new "flash-programmable" engine control unit (ECU) powered by EFI Technology, a leader in advanced electronic engine management and monitoring systems, the Pro-Flo® Gen-2 allows for more tuning features, fully sequential injector firing and limitless calibrations in a compact package. The Pro-Flo® Gen-2 includes a new software package with a graphic user interface that is user-friendly with an updated look. Additional software features include choice of Edelbrock exclusive hand-held calibration module (for tuning without a laptop) and new for Pro-Flo® Gen-2 has the option to laptop tune also, giving you the best of both worlds! Two tuning strategies include speed density (engine speed vs. manifold absolute pressure) and alpha-N (engine speed vs. throttle position). Included are base calibrations for common AMC, Chevy, Ford, and Chrysler applications. A narrow band O2 sensor is included and is also wide-band 02 compatible (wide band O2 not included). The complete package includes: intake manifold, throttle body assembly, fuel rails, fuel injectors, all sensors, wiring harness, ecu, hand-held calibration module, software, brackets and attaching hardware.

Yeah, I know....kind of boring :), But I am mainly looking for something that offers the kind of performance the vehicle needs and reliability.

What do you think...nothing is set in stone yet.

Doc
 
If you get a normally aspirated engine the Powerjection III may be an option too. Not really cheap but has worked very well on mine so far. That way you can use any intake that fits a square bore Holley. IF for some reason it dies putting a carb on to get home is pretty easy. Just need a pressure regulator.
 
2F :)
 
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