Will one oil give you better mpg? Make your engine last longer? 
What do you guys think is the best oil to use in the 100 series V8?
- Thread starter SWUtah
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- Thread starter
- #3
One way to start a discussion with widely-varying opinions - ask about the best oil.
Pretty much everyone agrees that a good 100% synthetic is superior to conventional. Beyond that, get ready for disagreements.
My own .02: Synthetic, change oil & filter at shorter conservative intervals ("severe" service interval, or 5k miles in the 1999 100 Series). This is the K.I.S.S. method absolutely guaranteed to assure extra-long engine life & best fuel economy.
(Actually, for a run-of-the-mill vehicle, I don't believe synthetic is worth the cost, as long as the change intervals are shorter "severe service" intervals. But the LX470 deserves synthetic.)
Counterarguments:
1. Test your oil, with the goal of determining when it needs changing, rather than simply change at regular shorter intervals.
(How much does it cost to test - including your time & S&H etc.? My time carries a steep premium. What is the possibility and extent of test error? What criteria should you apply in deciding when to change? Where did that criteria come from? Are you absolutely certain it correlates to actual engine wear factors? What if you are wrong or test is erroneous? Is the risk and cost worth it?)
2. One brand/type of synthetic (or other) is better than another.
(Good luck proving this. I am not aware of reliable unbiased conclusive data proving one is better than another, and no, UOAs alone or mfg claims don't prove it to me personally. I pick Mobil 1 because Mobil, being a large corporation, has both the resources to develop and produce a quality oil in quantity and also the resources to lose big-time if they screw up, so I figure they are probably about as good or better than any other synthetic - and, Mobile 1 is widely available and moderate cost, unlike the boutique synthetics.)
One thing folks may forget, when advocating extended change intervals using boutique synthetics, is that the oil is actually a cleaning agent in the engine, in use. The filter catches some but not all of the particulate, and the various additives mitigate partly but not fully the various chemical contaminants, that accumulate in the oil over the service interval. I don't want to leave it in for longer service intervals partly because I want to get that used cleaning solution (oil) OUT, replaced with fresh cleaning solution (oil), on a very regular basis. So far (>25 years and a number of vehicles), this has produced excellent results, with least risk.
Now, bring on the soapboxes! hehe
Pretty much everyone agrees that a good 100% synthetic is superior to conventional. Beyond that, get ready for disagreements.
My own .02: Synthetic, change oil & filter at shorter conservative intervals ("severe" service interval, or 5k miles in the 1999 100 Series). This is the K.I.S.S. method absolutely guaranteed to assure extra-long engine life & best fuel economy.
(Actually, for a run-of-the-mill vehicle, I don't believe synthetic is worth the cost, as long as the change intervals are shorter "severe service" intervals. But the LX470 deserves synthetic.)
Counterarguments:
1. Test your oil, with the goal of determining when it needs changing, rather than simply change at regular shorter intervals.
(How much does it cost to test - including your time & S&H etc.? My time carries a steep premium. What is the possibility and extent of test error? What criteria should you apply in deciding when to change? Where did that criteria come from? Are you absolutely certain it correlates to actual engine wear factors? What if you are wrong or test is erroneous? Is the risk and cost worth it?)
2. One brand/type of synthetic (or other) is better than another.
(Good luck proving this. I am not aware of reliable unbiased conclusive data proving one is better than another, and no, UOAs alone or mfg claims don't prove it to me personally. I pick Mobil 1 because Mobil, being a large corporation, has both the resources to develop and produce a quality oil in quantity and also the resources to lose big-time if they screw up, so I figure they are probably about as good or better than any other synthetic - and, Mobile 1 is widely available and moderate cost, unlike the boutique synthetics.)
One thing folks may forget, when advocating extended change intervals using boutique synthetics, is that the oil is actually a cleaning agent in the engine, in use. The filter catches some but not all of the particulate, and the various additives mitigate partly but not fully the various chemical contaminants, that accumulate in the oil over the service interval. I don't want to leave it in for longer service intervals partly because I want to get that used cleaning solution (oil) OUT, replaced with fresh cleaning solution (oil), on a very regular basis. So far (>25 years and a number of vehicles), this has produced excellent results, with least risk.
Now, bring on the soapboxes! hehe
- Thread starter
- #5
Very logical makes a lot of sense
Or Tires!
I converted to M1 after talking to some engineers from Rockwell/Dodge/Alliance (or whatever they go by these days). It is the only thing they use in the testing of gearboxes/transmissions and they test them to kill them. I figured that was "real world" enough for me.
My little input into what could go on and on........................
My $0.02 cents:
If you live in climates where the temperature varies from -40 to 100 winter to summer, it still might be a good idea to use synthetic in the run-off-the-mills' as well. Agree? Disagree?
If you live in climates where the temperature varies from -40 to 100 winter to summer, it still might be a good idea to use synthetic in the run-off-the-mills' as well. Agree? Disagree?
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
Yes. I use synthetics on all three of my cars. Here, the temps can range from 20F on the coldest winter nights to 115F on the hottest summer days. I use them wherever I can. Even the PS fluid in the LX is Redline ATF w/ dextron II (you can still buy the dextron II, but I've only seen it by redline for synthetic).
I would loooooooooooooooove for it to be 20 degrees above zero in winter. 115, even with no noticeable humidity, is insanely hot though. Today, here, the high temperature jumped above zero for the first time in about two weeks, I believe.
I'm no expert, but I agree. Synthetics have better viscosity properties at temperature extremes, from what I've read. (Don't thicken as much when cold, don't thin as much when hot, compared to conventional oil.)
(Around here, the normal range is within about 20 to 100F, so cold flow is not a big issue, and high temp conditions are managed by engine cooling etc. unless you really flog the engine and race, so conventional oil is probably OK in these respects - again, if changed more frequently using the "severe" service schedules.)
A good quality oil filter should not be overlooked! I have cut open my filter and pulled apart pleats to give me a base line how good or bad oil is working! this is not to say it needs done everytime nor replaces oil analysis if you trust lab! that's my take!!
