Nah flat surface. Not for soft shackles. Big point load on the shackle and the bumper just asking for the shackle to fracture. Might be fine but I personally don’t like them. Look sick af though
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?
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To bad, if they would have eased the insides like the outside they would be perfect for soft shackles.Nah flat surface. Not for soft shackles. Big point load on the shackle and the bumper just asking for the shackle to fracture. Might be fine but I personally don’t like them. Look sick af though
View attachment 4194880
Welds look fantasticNah flat surface. Not for soft shackles. Big point load on the shackle and the bumper just asking for the shackle to fracture. Might be fine but I personally don’t like them. Look sick af though
View attachment 4194880
Pea River put-in this week. Pea River is in SE Alabama, a muddy sandy region. Getting in and out required locking up the rear diff and at one time the front. Put-ins like this are much more interesting than developed boat ramps.
s***, something else to add to the build list... DAM YOU!!! LOL
I wonder why there's that hole in the vertical bars?Nah flat surface. Not for soft shackles. Big point load on the shackle and the bumper just asking for the shackle to fracture. Might be fine but I personally don’t like them. Look sick af though
View attachment 4194880
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Picked up a fresh batch of hardware from the zinc coating shop.
Changed the oil, then took the old oil to Autozone for recycling and saw my 80 on display.
I sure hope you used Mobil 1.
new ARB nitrochargers front 63070 & rear 63020
old N73/N74E's although no leaks have little to no compression damping but rebound is fine so bit the bullet on new ones
I had a very good run with the oldies since I think 2001 or so so cant complain
Only thing i did different was use OEM bushings as the ones that come with the nitro's are small in comparison & bigger is better yeah?
old N73/N74E's although no leaks have little to no compression damping but rebound is fine so bit the bullet on new ones
I had a very good run with the oldies since I think 2001 or so so cant complain
Only thing i did different was use OEM bushings as the ones that come with the nitro's are small in comparison & bigger is better yeah?
Finished rear bumper and tire carrier…
Now it’s 10 hours to Rubicon Trailhead. Hope to be starting Monday morning.
Ecliff5
SILVER Star
Got the turbo bolted up and the holes in the upper pan drilled and tapped. Making some good progress.
Drove from NH to just west of St Louis 21 hours. Then on to Westcliff Co the next day. Medano Pass to Great Sand Dunes. Then up to Creede for ice cream. Lake City to Engineer Pass down to Silverton for the night. Up for breakfast in Silverton then on the Ophir Pass. Telluride for pizza, followed by Last Dollar Rd to our cabin for the next 3 nights. Hopefully Imogene and Black bear pass tomorrow or Tuesday
Hammered out some miles all while sucking down some fuel.
Hammered out some miles all while sucking down some fuel.
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- Oct 14, 2014
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Replaced rear passenger door window seal. PSA the rear window guide unbolts from the door frame so you don't have to break the glass trying to get it back in.
replaced spark plugs. They’ve seen better days.
Bought a new set of K03’s and installed later model larger front rotors and calipers for the ‘92.
She’s stopping better and running smoother. Ready for the trails!
Bought a new set of K03’s and installed later model larger front rotors and calipers for the ‘92.
She’s stopping better and running smoother. Ready for the trails!
Little things..
-Fixed pass side vent after doing driver last weekend. Water tight now. Water was running behind this one and in the top hole. You can see the water line.
-PCV valve and grommet. Crazy how the old one fossilized.
-fixed horn after 2 years of not working. New connectors.
-oil change.
-Fixed pass side vent after doing driver last weekend. Water tight now. Water was running behind this one and in the top hole. You can see the water line.
-PCV valve and grommet. Crazy how the old one fossilized.
-fixed horn after 2 years of not working. New connectors.
-oil change.
Made progress on fixing the AC. Everything is back together, air is blowing ice cold, but the compressor is getting dummy hot and made some terrible, high-pitched squealing noises after idling a bit.
Checked the gap, pictured is .019"
Literally freezing at full blast:
Hot enough to burn my hand:
Thankfully no strong plastic burning smell but still very concerning.
The belt was a little loose after the first test cycle so I re-tightened that. Ran it again after it cooled all the way down and it heated right back up. Turned the engine off when it hit 260*, before it made bad noises again.
Had anyone else run into this when replacing an AC clutch? The only thing I can think of at this point is that I put it together too tight.
Checked the gap, pictured is .019"
Literally freezing at full blast:
Hot enough to burn my hand:
Thankfully no strong plastic burning smell but still very concerning.
The belt was a little loose after the first test cycle so I re-tightened that. Ran it again after it cooled all the way down and it heated right back up. Turned the engine off when it hit 260*, before it made bad noises again.
Had anyone else run into this when replacing an AC clutch? The only thing I can think of at this point is that I put it together too tight.
Swapped out that old 4500rpm redline tachometer for a faster 5000rpm redline tachometer. 
Primary benefit is the newer (95-97) tachometer should work with a Dakota Digital converter box. Bonus: the older white needle swapped over to match.
More cleaning:
If anyone has an extra transfer case wiring harness for either an FZJ80 or, preferably an FJ80, hit me up. We can repair this one, but I would prefer to have one with unbroken connectors for the position sensors.
And lastly, installed a modified (slightly trimmed the metal bracket) Bryke Racing dust seal with metal bearing. We left part of the old Toyota rubber seal on the steering shaft for extra coverage.
Primary benefit is the newer (95-97) tachometer should work with a Dakota Digital converter box. Bonus: the older white needle swapped over to match.More cleaning:
If anyone has an extra transfer case wiring harness for either an FZJ80 or, preferably an FJ80, hit me up. We can repair this one, but I would prefer to have one with unbroken connectors for the position sensors.
And lastly, installed a modified (slightly trimmed the metal bracket) Bryke Racing dust seal with metal bearing. We left part of the old Toyota rubber seal on the steering shaft for extra coverage.
Swapped out that old 4500rpm redline tachometer for a faster 5000rpm redline tachometer.
Dakota Digital converter box is not needed. Just adjust this pot. If 5V to 12V issue, then bypass one resistor on the tach, or use a pull up resistor.