What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

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Made some adjustable rear upper control arms with McMaster Carr parts.

Threaded rod cut in half. Round tube cut into 1/4’s. Sand the paint off the control arm tube and it will very very tightly press into the round tube. Tube end weld nuts push into the round tube nicely.

It would be better not to have to pull the bolts to adjust them but this was much easier than finding reverse threads and all the other parts to be able to adjust while installed. Plus I don’t expect to have to adjust very often.

Rear control arm bolts are torqued to 130ft lbs.

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ERG80 said:
Made some adjustable rear upper control arms with McMaster Carr parts.

Threaded rod cut in half. Round tube cut into 1/4’s. Sand the paint off the control arm tube and it will very very tightly press into the round tube. Tube end weld nuts push into the round tube nicely. Tons of adjustment.

It would be better not to have to pull the bolts to adjust them but this was much easier than finding reverse threads and all the other parts. Plus I don’t expect to have to adjust very often.

Rear control arm bolts are torqued to 130ft lbs.

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I left 3cm of thread protruding out the back of the tube-end weld nut on the non adjusting side. Weld the threaded rod to the inside edge of the tube-end, grind any excess weld, then slide it into the round tube. Slide the control arm into the other end of the round tube and weld. Thread on two lock nuts.

The other side is the adjusting side so don’t weld the threaded rod to the tube-end weld nut. But the assembly is the same. Weld.

These adjust over an inch shorter than stock and several inches longer.

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ERG80 said:
I left 3cm of thread protruding out the back of the tube-end weld nut on the non adjusting side. Weld the threaded rod to the inside edge of the tube-end, grind any excess weld, then slide it into the round tube. Slide the control arm into the other end of the round tube and weld. Thread on two lock nuts.

The other side is the adjusting side so don’t weld the threaded rod to the tube-end weld nut. But the assembly is the same. Weld.

These adjust over an inch shorter than stock and several inches longer.

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Way to think outside the box!
 
ERG80 said:
I left 3cm of thread protruding out the back of the tube-end weld nut on the non adjusting side. Weld the threaded rod to the inside edge of the tube-end, grind any excess weld, then slide it into the round tube. Slide the control arm into the other end of the round tube and weld. Thread on two lock nuts.

The other side is the adjusting side so don’t weld the threaded rod to the tube-end weld nut. But the assembly is the same. Weld.

These adjust over an inch shorter than stock and several inches longer.

View attachment 4037626
Click to expand...
What keeps the tube-end weld nut from sliding out of the tube?
 
Irish Reiver said:
It's really not that complicated. Only tools you need are screwdrivers to remove the various fittings around the inside of the windshield (A-pillar covers, sunvisors etc.), a 12mm wrench to pull the wiper arms and stubby screwdriver to access the screws on the plinth below the windshield. Oh and a length of cord.
The adhesive you choose to use will dictate how much time you have. Historically I have used this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RW1XCK?tag=ihco-20 but you only have 30 minutes before it starts to go off. Last time I used this stuff which also worked well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182RGDP8?tag=ihco-20
Definitely bring a friend to help.
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I had a glass shop tell me the windshield usually breaks on a removal and replacement. I really didn't like that. Do people with experience think this is wrong?
 
tech_dog said:
I had a glass shop tell me the windshield usually breaks on a removal and replacement. I really didn't like that. Do people with experience think this is wrong?
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The windshield can be popped out super easy with minimal effort. Installation isn’t all that bad either with the Toyota seals.

If a glass shop is usually breaking windshields then they are a shop to avoid.
 
tech_dog said:
I had a glass shop tell me the windshield usually breaks on a removal and replacement. I really didn't like that. Do people with experience think this is wrong?
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The FSM method specifies cutting the seal so the glass will not break. I saw the big suction cups for lifting the glass are on sale at HF.
 
In between kitchen duties I managed to finally finish the supercharger install this morning then filled the cooling system with distilled water for its first engine run in 6 months.
Came back an hour later to a puddle on the garage floor. 😕
Supercharger back off so i could get better access to the leak area.
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Started second guessing if i had fitted the 3 O-rings but on inspection they were present and not damaged. The gasket between the thermostat housing was also in place and good. Will investigate futher tomorrow when wine isn't part of the equation.
 
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