What did you do to your pig today?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Shoveled another layer off most of it, started it up. Started easily because it had only been a couple days since last run. Full choke, 2 pumps, 1.5 second of starter motor and bingo! it runs. needed to lock the front hubs and shift to 4hi to back out of my parking spot but the roads were plowed pretty well. Got fuel for the generator and beer for the driver and headed home. Thought I should back into my parking spot and figured I wouldn't need 4wd to do that. I was wrong and got carnaged. Slid a bit sideways downhill into the fencepost, only way out was forward. Took off the little pull on the fuel door...
Fencepost is fine.

20260220_132047.webp


20260220_151828.webp


20260220_151718.webp


20260220_151847.webp
 
Last edited:
charged up the battery, and it spins on its own power. Still plan to do some exploratory disassembly of the plugs, dizzy, and starter, but it is spinning ?normally? now. I guess she was just giving me grief for the neglect.
 
and every revolution it bogs at the same spot.
You were just bumping in to the compression stroke without enough electricity to power through it. Concur with pulling that area apart, cleaning all your cable ends and contacts and keeping it fully charged.
 
Went for a drive. It's a nice warm sunny day, time for a leisurely Sunday drive. Went into town and cruised mainstreet oldtown as one does, stopped for a tasty burger and posed in front of the BBQ place. Shopped for provisions and headed home. Think I have a dragging brake somewhere, I can smell it, probably the parking brake. Do burning disc brakes smell the same as burning drum brakes (which smell like burning clutch)?

20260222_131343.webp


20260222_132058.webp


20260222_133344.webp
 
i got a fuel door pull if you want
Thanks, why don't you save that for a showroom resto, I got an idea...
The Mickey Rubicon fuel door pull. Uses OEM hardware...

20260222_160618.webp


20260222_160625.webp


20260222_160631.webp
 
I puttered about and didn't really do what I wanted. I started out fixing why my lightswitch didn't turn on the lowbeams. Highbeams worked fine. so I took the switch apart and cleaned it up and shined the contacts like I should and put it back together and it worked.
Now, for a long time, I've had the headlights come on with the first click on pulling the switch out. I know that the running lights should come on with the first click and the headlights come on with the second click. Mine didn't. I might've swapped in a different switch in years past, I forget. Maybe it's a 40 switch, maybe a slightly different year 55. I bet if I studied and compared and contrasted schematics from different years and models it would be obvious, I'm getting right on that.
It worked so I figured I'd just button it up, then got the crazy idea of getting rid of the extra wires running down that inner fender. So I did, the cutoff remnants from the smog computer, the alt and voltage regulator from when they were on that side. I unwrapped the engine side of the harness, pulled out the unneeded stuff. I'm pretty sure I know what I don't need, mostly wires that I cut 25 years ago. So I put the fancy new loom on the remaining wires and the fancy OEM wire hold-downs from @CruiserTrash that I am liking more and more and thinking that I should do more of this electrical stuff and then tried the lightswitch and my lowbeams don't work. So, polishing turds, not fixing problem.

20260309_155218.webp


20260309_154428.webp


20260309_154400.webp


20260309_154348.webp
 
I puttered about and didn't really do what I wanted. I started out fixing why my lightswitch didn't turn on the lowbeams. Highbeams worked fine. so I took the switch apart and cleaned it up and shined the contacts like I should and put it back together and it worked.
Now, for a long time, I've had the headlights come on with the first click on pulling the switch out. I know that the running lights should come on with the first click and the headlights come on with the second click. Mine didn't. I might've swapped in a different switch in years past, I forget. Maybe it's a 40 switch, maybe a slightly different year 55. I bet if I studied and compared and contrasted schematics from different years and models it would be obvious, I'm getting right on that.
It worked so I figured I'd just button it up, then got the crazy idea of getting rid of the extra wires running down that inner fender. So I did, the cutoff remnants from the smog computer, the alt and voltage regulator from when they were on that side. I unwrapped the engine side of the harness, pulled out the unneeded stuff. I'm pretty sure I know what I don't need, mostly wires that I cut 25 years ago. So I put the fancy new loom on the remaining wires and the fancy OEM wire hold-downs from @CruiserTrash that I am liking more and more and thinking that I should do more of this electrical stuff and then tried the lightswitch and my lowbeams don't work. So, polishing turds, not fixing problem.

View attachment 4100181

View attachment 4100182

View attachment 4100183

View attachment 4100184
Man, sometimes it's one step forward and two steps back. It sucks but the work involved in the two steps back sets you up for forward progress next time. It might be something you discovered unwrapping that wire, or new info you learned reading the schematics, who knows. You'll get it.
 
Back
Top Bottom