theres just something about a tray back that I find sexy. maybe it's a case of you want what you can't have
West Coast Australia FJ45 cruiser build
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cheers Jason (fjz80), thats exactly which site I'm using. My post will only last as long as photobucket provides a free posting service.
By the way, I broke me forearm last weekend on my crf450r.:whoops: Flicked me off and I unfortunately used my arm to slow the impact. Poor old cruiser will be neglected for a while.
By the way, I broke me forearm last weekend on my crf450r.:whoops: Flicked me off and I unfortunately used my arm to slow the impact. Poor old cruiser will be neglected for a while.
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Donar Car A- Holden Commodore VY V8 SS ute
Pictures of the ute just after we cut the mangled roof off.
Pictures of the ute just after we cut the mangled roof off.
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Smashed up VY V8 SS
Here is a pic of the donor engine, 5.7L GenIII LS1 Chev engine (Aus version). Only damage was the auto transmission dipstick top clip, engine cover, radiator condenser & thermo fan shroud.
Here is a pic of the donor engine, 5.7L GenIII LS1 Chev engine (Aus version). Only damage was the auto transmission dipstick top clip, engine cover, radiator condenser & thermo fan shroud.
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Donor Car B - Toyota Landcruiser HJ60 Wagon 1984
Here are a couple of pictures of my 2nd Donor vehicle, believe it to be a HJ60 1984 model, note the Holden 308 V8 engine under the bonnet and the power steering unit.
Here are a couple of pictures of my 2nd Donor vehicle, believe it to be a HJ60 1984 model, note the Holden 308 V8 engine under the bonnet and the power steering unit.
Great work mate. Looks like you'll be/have been busy. I loved it over in the west when i lived there for 9 years.
......Now stay away from that Emu Bitter and keep the pics coming!
......Now stay away from that Emu Bitter and keep the pics coming!
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Mobile Gantry Crane
Here are pictures of the mobile gantry crane I built for the job, took around 3 weekends to build. I did attempt to purchase one without success. Brand new versions were all far to expensive $2500 plus ex freight cost to Perth. There was one secondhand crane available in Perth metro area, but the old lady selling it wasn't negotiable and the crane wasn't a mobile one. I think she wanted around $800. Not a bad price in the end based on what it cost me to build mine, think $1200 (incl of welding consumables). To limit the cost of the crane build I visited one of my EX employers (major fabricator) to see if I could get a cheap UB, fortunately enough following a short chat he was able to provide me with a 2.2m long beam free of charge.
Anyway, the pictures show the final product. Each wheel is cast steel and rated to 500kg. A structural engineer at work did say that the vertical members are redundant, the sloping members take the load (should of started with A-frame design). In my defence I used what material was available at the local seconds deposal depot and using vertical members made it easier to fab and assembly in the early part. Please ignore the orientation of the lower horizontal members, not the best orientation in terms of bending resistance but sufficient for the loads it will experience during this build.
Check-out the pictures of the temporary equipment (mobile gantry crane) needed for a job like this one.
Here are pictures of the mobile gantry crane I built for the job, took around 3 weekends to build. I did attempt to purchase one without success. Brand new versions were all far to expensive $2500 plus ex freight cost to Perth. There was one secondhand crane available in Perth metro area, but the old lady selling it wasn't negotiable and the crane wasn't a mobile one. I think she wanted around $800. Not a bad price in the end based on what it cost me to build mine, think $1200 (incl of welding consumables). To limit the cost of the crane build I visited one of my EX employers (major fabricator) to see if I could get a cheap UB, fortunately enough following a short chat he was able to provide me with a 2.2m long beam free of charge.
Anyway, the pictures show the final product. Each wheel is cast steel and rated to 500kg. A structural engineer at work did say that the vertical members are redundant, the sloping members take the load (should of started with A-frame design). In my defence I used what material was available at the local seconds deposal depot and using vertical members made it easier to fab and assembly in the early part. Please ignore the orientation of the lower horizontal members, not the best orientation in terms of bending resistance but sufficient for the loads it will experience during this build.
Check-out the pictures of the temporary equipment (mobile gantry crane) needed for a job like this one.
What hold your top to the windshield ? Only the 3 bolt on each side? Or you have the hook like the early fj45 top ?
Nice resto keep the pic coming .I like the bed .
Why in Australia you remove all the bed to add a alu tray back?
Subscribed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice resto keep the pic coming .I like the bed .
Why in Australia you remove all the bed to add a alu tray back?
Subscribed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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in response to marcfj-45, yes just a bracket with a couple bolts that tie the window panel to the roof. The roof does have a frame that bolts to the sides of the roof and this is what the roof bracket is secured too. As you would know the roof is flanged and is bolted to the rear window panel.
Not sure what yoy mean about the bed statement, sounds like you have a preference for wagons. A wagon would come in handy for sleeping. But the tray is far more versatile.
Not sure what yoy mean about the bed statement, sounds like you have a preference for wagons. A wagon would come in handy for sleeping. But the tray is far more versatile.
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Commencement of FJ45 dissembly
Lifting the cab off, motor and complete dissembly of the diffs as follows:
Lifting the cab off, motor and complete dissembly of the diffs as follows:
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Chassis & Diffs Powder Coated
Here are pictures of the chassis and diff following powder coating. The chassis and diff were sandblasted prior to being coated in zinc rich 2pac I think, anyway here are some more pics.
The choice to powder coat the diffs will probably be a mistake in the long run, but they can alway be replaced.
Here are pictures of the chassis and diff following powder coating. The chassis and diff were sandblasted prior to being coated in zinc rich 2pac I think, anyway here are some more pics.
The choice to powder coat the diffs will probably be a mistake in the long run, but they can alway be replaced.
For the bed i meen what came with the ute (from the dealer)
Or ute came like this from the factory? Tray is oem?
Did the tray btw!
There is quite a big demand for new commercial vehicles to be sold as "cab + chassis" so the new owners can adapt the rear to suit whatever they want to carry.
Vehicles sold this way are usually considerably cheaper than "fully made-up vehicles" and there is enough competition (within tray/body manufacturers) to ensure a cost-benefit remains when such a vehcile is fitted out to the customer's specifications.
So I believe that 45 & 47 series cruisers were regularly sold around here simply as "cab+chassis".
It is far easier to load the rear without "high sides" even though most of us prefer the look of the "toyota wellside".
So when you see an aluminium tray (or wooden flatdeck etc) on a 45 or 47 , it doesn't necessarily mean a Toyota "wellside" has been ditched to fit it. (I think it would be very unusual for anyone to do that - unless rust-issues forced it in latter years of ownership.)
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Building the diff centers ARB Lockers
What a learning curve to dial in the backlash and confirm the correct drive/ overdrive patterns. It took me a couple of months to build the diff centres, includes xmas days off and weekends up until Feb. I did use a crown and matching pinion set from my donor car HJ60 series as the diff centers are identical. One of the pinions from the FJ45 had a crack tooth edge, so thought it best be replaced.
Fitting the crown wheel needs to be done with care to ensure flat on the diff center matting face and that all the bolts can be pushed through. I had to slightly file several holes on the diff center to allow the bolts to push through clear. I'm sure there are numerous ways of avoid this, but this is what happened to me. The shiming process was very time consuming for me. The toyota manual is great in terms of providing guidance to dial the diff in and what direction to improve or worsen the measurements. As there is limited shim thicknesses available from toyota, I bought shim paper set containing a wide range of thickness and cut them to exact size of the originals, worked perfectly. I don't believe the diff's were reshimmed since new, therefore poor pattern exhibited.
Anyway, range of pictures showing the diff center building excercise.
Drive pattern I believe, this was nearly 2 yrs ago
Over drive pattern
Drive pattern
Over drive pattern
What a learning curve to dial in the backlash and confirm the correct drive/ overdrive patterns. It took me a couple of months to build the diff centres, includes xmas days off and weekends up until Feb. I did use a crown and matching pinion set from my donor car HJ60 series as the diff centers are identical. One of the pinions from the FJ45 had a crack tooth edge, so thought it best be replaced.
Fitting the crown wheel needs to be done with care to ensure flat on the diff center matting face and that all the bolts can be pushed through. I had to slightly file several holes on the diff center to allow the bolts to push through clear. I'm sure there are numerous ways of avoid this, but this is what happened to me. The shiming process was very time consuming for me. The toyota manual is great in terms of providing guidance to dial the diff in and what direction to improve or worsen the measurements. As there is limited shim thicknesses available from toyota, I bought shim paper set containing a wide range of thickness and cut them to exact size of the originals, worked perfectly. I don't believe the diff's were reshimmed since new, therefore poor pattern exhibited.
Anyway, range of pictures showing the diff center building excercise.
Drive pattern I believe, this was nearly 2 yrs ago
Over drive pattern
Drive pattern
Over drive pattern
Looking good, I have a late '02 VY SS ute that had been rolled & flipped that I got my LS1 out of. I paid $2K for it & sold parts off it & the 6 speed. I made $4,500 & got a free LS1 + the bloke who bought my 6 speed swapped me his 4L60e with a stuffed 2nd gear & $1,500.
Still got the hard lid & tub liner 4 sale.
Keep up the good work.
brooksy
Still got the hard lid & tub liner 4 sale.
Keep up the good work.
brooksy
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Upgraded Diff centers & front disc brake conversion
These pictures show the upgraded front diff center fitted along with the overhauled 60 series front swivel hubs to suit 4 spot caliper brakes. Hope this set-up gets past the local vehicle registeration department, should be okay as direct bolt on with no modifications.
These pictures show the upgraded front diff center fitted along with the overhauled 60 series front swivel hubs to suit 4 spot caliper brakes. Hope this set-up gets past the local vehicle registeration department, should be okay as direct bolt on with no modifications.
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Rear Disc Brake Conversion
It was eating me up, I had to do a rear disc brake conversion. It took two attempts to get the mounting bracket correct (CNC Lazer cut) and three attempts to get the hubs correct in terms of getting the rotors to sit flush on the hubs. The rotors are 60 series fronts and the calipers are front commodores. I had to get the studs machined down to suit the rear hubs which are normally used for drum brake configurations. So yes this did take several weekends, probably 4-6 weeks. SHould be worth it in the end. I forgot, I did FEA on the bracket to ensure its suitable for the duty, see the pic below.
It was eating me up, I had to do a rear disc brake conversion. It took two attempts to get the mounting bracket correct (CNC Lazer cut) and three attempts to get the hubs correct in terms of getting the rotors to sit flush on the hubs. The rotors are 60 series fronts and the calipers are front commodores. I had to get the studs machined down to suit the rear hubs which are normally used for drum brake configurations. So yes this did take several weekends, probably 4-6 weeks. SHould be worth it in the end. I forgot, I did FEA on the bracket to ensure its suitable for the duty, see the pic below.
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Building the gearbox- Conversion Kit
The next phase of the project was to build the gearbox along with the transfer case. I chose the 45 series transfer case as it has the tailshaft handbrake. On inspection and advice from a friend the main input and output shafts were totally worn, especially any component assoicated with gear or mode selection. Each of the splines that the selector slide along were worn, very noticable when looking at the non contact section of the spline. I suppose you should expect this for a vehicle that is some 28 yrs old and did who knows many kms (probably 500,000km plus.
In the end I replaced every component in the transfer case with genuine toyota parts (ie input & output shafts, selector rings and forks) and a gearmaster set. I chose the gearmaster set on the basis of the opposing tapered bearing configuration which will be good for on and off load situations. The gearmaster configurations allows the idler gearset to be preloaded (similar to the diff bearing configuration) rather than float on brass bushes like the standard gear set. Should eliminate axial impact loads (& assoicated noise) on the bushes as the power is applied on and off.
As can be seen in the pictures there is a conversion kit positioned between the GMH 4L60E gearbox (4 speed automatic) and the 45 series manual type transfer case.
The next phase of the project was to build the gearbox along with the transfer case. I chose the 45 series transfer case as it has the tailshaft handbrake. On inspection and advice from a friend the main input and output shafts were totally worn, especially any component assoicated with gear or mode selection. Each of the splines that the selector slide along were worn, very noticable when looking at the non contact section of the spline. I suppose you should expect this for a vehicle that is some 28 yrs old and did who knows many kms (probably 500,000km plus.
In the end I replaced every component in the transfer case with genuine toyota parts (ie input & output shafts, selector rings and forks) and a gearmaster set. I chose the gearmaster set on the basis of the opposing tapered bearing configuration which will be good for on and off load situations. The gearmaster configurations allows the idler gearset to be preloaded (similar to the diff bearing configuration) rather than float on brass bushes like the standard gear set. Should eliminate axial impact loads (& assoicated noise) on the bushes as the power is applied on and off.
As can be seen in the pictures there is a conversion kit positioned between the GMH 4L60E gearbox (4 speed automatic) and the 45 series manual type transfer case.
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3D modelling of FJ45 ute
Leading up to this moment (keep in mind almost 1.5 yrs ago) I was aiming to draw a 3D model of the vehicle to assist my efforts in fitting the engine, gearbox, fuel tank and designing the roll cage. In the end the 3D model fell behind my physical progress and I resorted to trial and error fit-ups. Here is the model anyway, I should finish it some day.
Leading up to this moment (keep in mind almost 1.5 yrs ago) I was aiming to draw a 3D model of the vehicle to assist my efforts in fitting the engine, gearbox, fuel tank and designing the roll cage. In the end the 3D model fell behind my physical progress and I resorted to trial and error fit-ups. Here is the model anyway, I should finish it some day.