A few things to update. Charcoal canister, PHH, OBDII, brakes, and mechanical stuff.
Put in one of those GM charcoal canisters. That was a little more surgery than I expected. Ended up removing the two round brackets that held the old, smaller Toyota canister. The new canister was hard to fit with either bracket due to the tightness with the fuse box, wires coming out of the bottom of the fuse box, and the positive terminal wires coming off of my battery. Yes, if you remember I flipped pos/neg positions on my battery when I moved to the Sears Die Hard Platinum. So, I ended up drilling a new hole in the more permanent support bracket and used the lower round bracket up on the top. Bought a small 2.25" bolt to keep the cannister in place. Not sure yet what to do with the frame mounted pipe the old canister connected to out the bottom. Plug it, remove it, dunno. I also ended up cutting off the bulb end of the larger connecter on the new canister. The connecter is still slightly larger than the hose's inner diameter is meant for, but it works and fits on more easily without that little bulb end. As for performance, my engine isn't running any differently, but the gasoline smell is gone when I start er up now.
Had a mechanic do the PHH work around while doing a few other things. They really appreciated the pics I supplied and the instructions from 'Mud. They're a great Toyota-only place here in town, and they know Cruisers, (or Land Crushers / Land Bruisers as they call them) from a mechanical stand point, but they aren't familiar with the 'Mud types of things. Thanks 'Mud! I also got the thermostat o-ring replaced so hopefully no more little coolant leak. And switched back to Toyota Red.
I also unscrewed the fuse panel and OBDII jack which allowed me to put in my bluetooth OBDII module and cover with my new fuse panel cover under the steering wheel. CDan only had them in gray but I painted it with the bronze paint I used on the discovery cupholder. It's lighter than the surrounding plastic, but it's hardly noticeable where it is and things are multi-toned in the interior anyway. I'm happy with it. I use the Movi Pro software on my MacBook Pro, which I like for engine temp, air temp, etc...
I got the rear Power Stop drilled/slotted brakes on but the mechanic found many things which need attention and the diagnostics took too long for them to finish the work list yesterday. So, next Tuesday the LC is going in for two days of surgery.
Looks like:
Oil pump o-ring
Front crank shaft seal
Install fan shroud
Install new front brakes and tab washer
Xfer case front and rear output seal
Rubber boots for rear brakes (?)
New diff and xfer case fluid
New valve cover gasket
I've had pretty high oil pressure and I suspect the oil pressure relief valve isn't working. They'll check that. High oil pressure from that stuck valve could explain my oil seal issues.
It's a hefty price tag but I like these guys and this is a lot of that base-lining I failed to do initially. They're also going to check the front axle to see if it might be bent, as someone elsewhere on mud suggested once.
Just hoping the rear crankshaft seal doesn't need to be done also, but won't know till the others are done and things can be cleaned up.
Snorkel should be going on tomorrow which will include installing the new corner light assembly. I was prepping for that today, meaning looking around the engine bay and watching the videos on youtube by Narrow Pass 4x4. I didn't even know about that cup below the air box which catches mud or dirt. I emptied mine and cleaned it out. It wasn't even close to full. I assume that's 144K worth of dirt, but who knows. Nice to know it's clean though.
It's spring break so I'm looking at doing the diff breather mod into the air box too. Still need to wire up my winch.
