Welding fender holes

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k4azy

k4azy

10 Year
Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Threads
23
Messages
301
Location
Creedmoor, NC
What would it take to weld up all the holes where my fenders came off?

I was planning on using metal tape over the holes and then bedliner over that but the more I think about it, the more I'd like to repaint it the stock color. After reading lots and lots of paint threads I think I can do that myself. The welding is another story, though.

Thoughts?

truck_profile.webp
 
Send DanKunz a PM. He recently did this without welding. New body filler product that doesn't absorb moisture the way bondo does...can't remember exactly what its called, but it worked well for his application.
 
Be glad you don't have an LX.

Welding for paint was my original intent, but didn't do a good enough job. Did 162 on mine.

It's difficult to do for an inexperienced welder, especially considering the panels can't be removed and welded on a table, nor is it feasible to use an aluminum or brass block for backer.

I wound up picking up body nails ( literally look like sixteen penny nail, but composition is refined ) at a body shop supply. Insert from face, tack, bounce around, then cut off bail body's, grind, repeat.......a lot.
 
BMThiker said:
Send DanKunz a PM. He recently did this without welding. New body filler product that doesn't absorb moisture the way bondo does...can't remember exactly what its called, but it worked well for his application.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rick. He had a shop do it and couldn't give me the name of the product. I'll look around and see what's new out there...
 
Anything bigger than say 1/4 and you are better off cutting a little disc of steel the same size as the hole and welding a little ring of spot welds on it.

Ron Fournier go over this very well in this video.

http://www.fournierenterprises.com/cart/product.php?productid=16153&cat=0&bestseller

He recommends the TIG process but if you have .023 or .025 wire you will be fine with the MIG process. If you have access to a TIG machine that has a pulser, that would be the ideal method though.

Do not cool the weld with a wet rag.

Go VERY slowly.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. No, I don't necessarily want to take it anywhere... I'm starting to realize that I'll have to take the longview and start putting my money into tools. I can't rely on Darin forever! ;p

However, I suspect these holes are probably a great place for rust to take hold... It comes down to a choice between taking the time and learning to do it right and just doing something to prevent more problems.
 
So you can't get to the back of these holes? I'm not real familiar. If you can't, isn't that a GREAT place for rust to start from the back side after welding? Even coating the back side of a plug w/ welding primer is going to leave some exposure after welding.

I'd look really hard at this filler product Rick mentions.

It's not http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=38 is it? (kitty hair by Evercoat)

:beer: R
 
That is a really good point, any time you weld you create a problem where rust can form as the result of the welding process itself and from the left over "smoke" from the welding process. Ideally, any weldment will be accessible on both sides to properly prepare the metal for rust preventative paint - but even then, welds themselves can attract rust for various reasons.

http://www.asminternational.org/content/ASM/StoreFiles/ACFAB86.pdf

The Kitty Hair or Gorilla Hair body filler has fiberglass fibers in it - I jokingly call it "Structural Bondo" It is ideal for fixing stuff like this. You could also use Sikkiflex adhesive and a clamped on metal patch. Wear a respi with any body filler sanding, but especially with this stuff. Sand it outside.

Welding this DIY is possible but it's an advanced do it yourselfer project if you want it to look nice. You would need to practice a lot before taking this on. Also take precautions to mask off the truck to not damage it with sparks. That is why the TIG process is so nice - no sparks. You could do a ton of damage to the glass and paint with just the sparks from welding and grinding. As in repaint the whole car and replace all the glass.

I'd highly recommend that anyone who wants to get into welding take a class or better yet a couple of them. I took a class taught by an awesome instructor and got a lot out of it. Not all welding classes are taught by a certified welding instructor and weldor - some are taught by industrial arts teachers who are not themselves certified or have a back ground in professional welding. That is OK but generally not as good as a program intended to train professional welders. However, those programs require you to take a lot of classes that may no be useful to you as a hobbyist. For example, you have to take stick welding for a semester before you can take MIG or TIG.

If you want to learn, buy the Covell Video, get a nice Miller or Lincoln welder and take a class. I'd recommend the Lincoln as it has an optional spot timer module that is ideal for this task. You can also get a great student package from Miller with lots of good info in it. It's not rocket science, just a lot of time to practice.
 
Awesome feedback! That's really what I was looking for... whether welding is the "right" way forward and, if so, what's involved in a DIY job.

I think I'm going to go with the body filler whether I decide to stick with stock paint or go with bedliner. It sounds like the right remedy for the job.
 
You also might try one of the filler products from POR-15. I used, I think, their Epoxy Putty years ago on small holes in a Pinzgauer I owned to repair small holes after I had killed the rust.
 
You could also get Frankenstein on it and just put some button head Allen, #3 Phillips or Torx's in there....put some silicone on them.

chuck a NutSert or ThreadSert in the hole first...

Kinda Red Neck - but it's simple and would fill the holes.

ascc6946.webp
 
krzyabncanuck said:
Now correct me if I am wrong here, but can you not get to the back of all holes from the inside. A pain yes but do able .
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Yeah, u can get to them but its a huge pain. Holes in the front, rear and doors.
 
kulangot said:
You could also get Frankenstein on it and just put some button head Allen, #3 Phillips or Torx's in there....put some silicone on them.

chuck a NutSert or ThreadSert in the hole first...

Kinda Red Neck - but it's simple and would fill the holes.
Click to expand...

Not on the sides. I want a clean look (which is why I'm on the fence about using bedliner). I'll probably do button head screws on top when I remove the OE rack, though.
 
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