Weird grinding

[Spook50]

Well I was hoping the knuckle rebuild would end this grinding noise I've been hearing when in 4WD, but no such luck. It was snowy this morning so I had a chance to mess around with it a bit. The grinding is more felt than heard, through the footrest for your left foot when I take my foot off the gas at about 30MPH or so, and only when I have my truck in 4WD. 2WD with hubs locked is smooth as silk (even better after the knuckle job).

Any ideas what might be causing this, or something I could try that might help me find out?

 

[lovetoski]

I have a noise too, and it seem similar to what you describe. I've posted up on here, and feedback has centered around the transfercase output bearing. I've read that nearly all transfercases need a rebuild after 200,000 miles, and my truck has 295,000...so a failing output bearing makes a lot of sense in my case.

Sometimes it never seems to stop does it?

 

[Spook50]

I have a noise too, and it seem similar to what you describe. I've posted up on here, and feedback has centered around the transfercase output bearing. I've read that nearly all transfercases need a rebuild after 200,000 miles, and my truck has 295,000...so a failing output bearing makes a lot of sense in my case.

Sometimes it never seems to stop does it?

Oh gawd, that's all I need. I take it I'd have to do a full rebuild just to change out that bearing, huh? That ain't gonna be fun

 

[brett76]

I have a noise too, and it seem similar to what you describe. I've posted up on here, and feedback has centered around the transfercase output bearing. I've read that nearly all transfercases need a rebuild after 200,000 miles, and my truck has 295,000...so a failing output bearing makes a lot of sense in my case.

Sometimes it never seems to stop does it?

yup sounds about right to me.

also make sure its in good. sometmes mine does that if i dont have it slammed in 4lo good. it starts to make that noise i pull it out and slam it back in. done

 

[Spook50]

yup sounds about right to me.

also make sure its in good. sometmes mine does that if i dont have it slammed in 4lo good. it starts to make that noise i pull it out and slam it back in. done

On the 62 tcase, the 4WD/2WD shift is done by vacuum, so you really can't "slam" it into either

 

[Mace]

Start wiggling you r front driveshaft around.

My 40 used to do this. I drove it for 10 years before I did anyhting about it.


Is your tcase leaking at all?

 

[Spook50]

Start wiggling you r front driveshaft around.

My 40 used to do this. I drove it for 10 years before I did anyhting about it.


Is your tcase leaking at all?

No leaks at all that I could see when I changed out the oil a while back. I'll give the DS a feel and see if it has any play. I hope not, because I really don't want to take the time and spend the money to rebuild my tcase

 

[Spook50]

Well I gave the front driveshaft a shake, and it's got about 1/4" (slightly less, actually) of total lateral movement at the tcase. I have yet to reference the FSM and see if there's anything about this in there, but I have a feeling that front bearing is shot. It's leaking slightly from the front oil seal as well.

So how big of a bear is a tcase rebuild, and any guesstimates as to how long I've got before the rebuild is going to be needed? I want to do it as soon as I can, but I also want to order the McNamara shaft for it so I can lose the shifting clunk that's starting to materialize.

I'll do some more research on rebuilding after work. I'm on lunch right now...

 

[Toadhopper]

The TCase rebuild is a long job. I had my tranny out for a 5 speed swap (86 60) so it was a little easier to take apart than if you left the tranny in place.
I brought pieces to a machine shop to have the bearings pressed in (4 of them I believe) at $15.00 per bearing. The kit was $170.00 from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters.
Its not really complicated, actually as CruiserDrew once put it, its elegently simple, but time consuming. Solid labor on the rebuild took me about 4 hours plus R&R time for the tranny itself. I would think if you got your rig up high enough so you could get in there easily it would be pretty quick. The rear cover comes out, then the guts, then the front cover. There are 3 large nuts to get off (tranny output, and 2 TCase output ) that were a PITA, but after that it was pretty easy.
Toad

 

[Spook50]

The TCase rebuild is a long job. I had my tranny out for a 5 speed swap (86 60) so it was a little easier to take apart than if you left the tranny in place.
I brought pieces to a machine shop to have the bearings pressed in (4 of them I believe) at $15.00 per bearing. The kit was $170.00 from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters.
Its not really complicated, actually as CruiserDrew once put it, its elegently simple, but time consuming. Solid labor on the rebuild took me about 4 hours plus R&R time for the tranny itself. I would think if you got your rig up high enough so you could get in there easily it would be pretty quick. The rear cover comes out, then the guts, then the front cover. There are 3 large nuts to get off (tranny output, and 2 TCase output ) that were a PITA, but after that it was pretty easy.
Toad

I'm planning on leaving my auto tranny installed while I do the tcase rebuild (this is assuming I do it before I do the 5-spd swap, which will most likely be the case), so I need to figure out a way to support it since without the tcase, there's nothing supporting my tranny (is it this way on 60s as well?). My truck will be on a frame lift as well, so reaching stuff shouldn't be a problem once I get started. I'm debating on installing the front case half from an FJ60 so I can go ahead and have all mechanical shifting for my tcase (as opposed to the vacuum system, though I do love the vacuum system now that I've got it modified), and get Advance Adapters FJ60 twin stick kit, just for the cool factor of it.

I'll do it at the base auto shop, and they've got a brand new 25,000 lb. press so I'm set for that. Got a lot of research to do before I tackle this job, because I want to do it flawlessly.

 

[Toadhopper]

I've heard the H55F + the 3FE engine is a really good combo! Obviously there is a considerable expense involved, but IF you could pull it off now you'd be set for a while.
In a 60, the crossmember can remain in place allowing for the removal of the TCase without additional support of the tranny.
It sounds like the AT in a 62 isn't quite the same.

When you do your bearings, there is one little one that you'll most likely have to chisel out. When you get your rebuild kit you'll see which one I'm talking about. Be careful on that one!

Also, you can make a tool from a piece of flat steel to hold the TCase output shafts steady when you need to torque them down during reassembly. It sounds like you have access to air tools so you'll be able to use an air gun to get those big nuts off.

Make sure to get an FSM if you don't already have one.

You may also want to consider pulling the tranny to R&R the rear main seal, but you could always do that later when you do the H55F swap.

Good luck, and post ???s as they come up.
Toad

 

[Spook50]

I've heard the H55F + the 3FE engine is a really good combo! Obviously there is a considerable expense involved, but IF you could pull it off now you'd be set for a while.
In a 60, the crossmember can remain in place allowing for the removal of the TCase without additional support of the tranny.
It sounds like the AT in a 62 isn't quite the same.

When you do your bearings, there is one little one that you'll most likely have to chisel out. When you get your rebuild kit you'll see which one I'm talking about. Be careful on that one!

Also, you can make a tool from a piece of flat steel to hold the TCase output shafts steady when you need to torque them down during reassembly. It sounds like you have access to air tools so you'll be able to use an air gun to get those big nuts off.

Make sure to get an FSM if you don't already have one.

You may also want to consider pulling the tranny to R&R the rear main seal, but you could always do that later when you do the H55F swap.

Good luck, and post ???s as they come up.
Toad

I'm actually planning to put in an NV4500 at some point (the sooner the better) because it'll work well with the 4BT when that is eventually done. The final plans are 4BT to NV4500 to factory tcase (or maybe an Orion if I feel like blowing another 1.5K bucks)

But yeah, on my 62, the crossmember goes under the tcase, supporting it, and the tranny is supported by the tcase and motor together. I've got access to all the right air tools, and I've had my FSMs for as long as I've had my 62 (thanks to my dad).

I'm still trying to source a McNamara input gear, but haven't had any luck yet. Hopefully I'll be able to track one down soon and get it ordered.