Weber TLDM 28/32 idle problem

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Jan 10, 2020
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Spain
Hi. I have recentyl restored my TLDM 28/32 fitted on a Ford Orion 1.6 '90 using the kit from Weber, and after this, i'm having a problem with an unstable idle speed, and the worst is when the car warms up, because the idle won't rev down, it surges to 2.5-3k rpm and sits there when not in gear. Sometimes, while parking, giving some throttle, it goes down and remains oscillating in the 1.5k rpm zone. Do you have any idea, please? Thank you. Also, i have to say that the choke isn't working ok, because it doesn't open when the car is warm. I don't know if this have something to do with the problem. It is correctly installed on the carb, and i can twist the choke flap twisting the choke adjustment ring; also, all the hoses are correctly atached, it doesn't seem to be any vacumm leaks, i checked spraying carb cleaner in order to find them, and the engine dies if i block the venturis at the top of the carb. I cleaned all the passages of the carb and used compressed air in the emulsion tubes, jets, idle passages and jet, everything. Also installed new spark-plugs (the have a dark colour at the electrode zone) and new spark leads. I dont know what else to do. Another curious thing, is that after the car is at working temperature, and the fan already started to turn, the choke doesnt open more than the initial little move provided by the choke pull-off, and if i manually release the throttle linkage and open the flap to the vertical position where it should be, the engine instantly dies. Sorry for the lenght explanation, and thank you.
 

gnob

 
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Aug 2, 2006
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Sounds like the choke isnt setup properly.
Also what did you use for initial setup? As far as setting idle and main fuel jets.

IMO the progressive weber is pretty turrible. A real two barrel is a much better carb.
 
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Yes, i know it is not the best carb, and i'm really tired of the problems. I am looking for a good replacement, ¿do you know about any carb that could be fitted in my car?
 
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There is another problem: when the car gets warm up to working temperature and the fast idle cam is released, the car stalls if i don't keep giving it gas. The car can restart multiple times, but still won't idle until its cold. Today i adjusted the choke for a leaner operation and it idles less rought and without the strong petrol smell. The important thing is that i sprayed dome carb cleaner around the carb, manifold, hoses.. and found out that the idle changes when sprayed at the zone where the top body of the carb sits on the main body. It's strange because it has a new gasket, but there is a vacumm leak.
 

Mudder

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Sounds like your idle mixture screw needs to be adjusted so itll idle again. I'd also double check the gasket, cheap gaskets can let go and give an air leak. Had it happen on an old 460.
 
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Jan 10, 2020
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I re-tightned the carb screws and now it seems that there is no leak at the gasket on the top body. But the problem continues: when the car is warm, and i manually actuate the throttle lever on the carb, the cam is released, the choke flap gets completely vertical, and the engine just dies. Now, i notice that the idle goes down if i spray it on the back of the carb, and the idle goes up if i pinch the vacumm hose that goes from the bottom on the back of the carb to the throttle kicker unit.
 
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Jan 10, 2020
Messages
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Spain
More information, just in case any of you gays can think of something to help me out find the culprit: when the engine is wamr, if i manually open fully the choke flap, it doesn't die, but as soon as the fast idle cam is released and the throttle arm comes to the curb idle stop, it dies. If i try to start it now, with the choke fully open and the fast idle cam released, it won't start without giving some throttle. I tried turning in the idle speed screw to increase idle speed (to factory spec), and when i tried to start it with a little throttle, the carb spitted a shot of gas.
 
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